Fluke 8024B...

[retiredcaps]

Looks like a lead is broken off RT1,

BTW, your picture is 0 bytes.  That is, we can't see the picture.

[knockbill]

Cool, glad this discussion helped you I a small way!  I will try to post the pic again...

[knockbill]

Looks like it posted this time...

I appreciate the dialog as much as working on stuff, these DMMs are interesting, but they are pretty small compared to the tube amp chassis I build and work on... I picked up a total of 4 meters Sunday counting this Fluke, for next to nothing...  Two others seem to work fine, and with the exception of this Fluke and the newest one, which reads low through out the scales...A new battery didn't fix it, but in looking at the guts, I think it is a cheap Chinese made 5buck meter in a nicer than average case "Lipstick on a pig" if you will!!!  Its even labeled Gardner-Bender a well known electrical parts company, but I'm not sure why they put their name on it!!   no info is available online schematic wise either, but they are still selling them!!!

I'll dig up parts and revisit the Fluke when I find something...

[rsjsouza]

knockbill, these types of discussions help everybody... I had to repair a few 8020s and 8060s and thanks to modemhead, retiredcaps, Excavatoree and a few others, threads like yours helped me save a few very nice DMMs from the landfill (including two I gave to my dad). 

[knockbill]

I'm glad to hear that!  I don't have much to offer in the repair of SS gear, but I'm game to try, if I can do do the task...  seems it's a lot more popular than the tube gear I really enjoy working with!!  I think I'd do better if I had your younger eyes!!!!

[retiredcaps]

Two others seem to work fine, and with the exception of this Fluke and the newest one, which reads low through out the scales.

If you want help fixing the other one, start a new thread and post clear focused pictures of the pcb (both sides) and I can make suggestions.

You don't need a schematic to fix things.  I do most of my repairs without one because there isn't one publicly available on the Internet and I can't read a schematic.  Now if I could do both ...

[knockbill]

OK,,, If ya want another project!!!

[tautech]

Two others seem to work fine, and with the exception of this Fluke and the newest one, which reads low through out the scales.

If you want help fixing the other one, start a new thread and post clear focused pictures of the pcb (both sides) and I can make suggestions.

You don't need a schematic to fix things.  I do most of my repairs without one because there isn't one publicly available on the Internet and I can't read a schematic.  Now if I could do both ...

He did: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/gb-gdt-3190-reads-low-in-all-modes/

[iJoseph2]

Hi All, I just want to say thank you to this thread for pointing me in the right direction for fixing a Fluke 8024B I picked up last year and left in the cupboard until last week.

It has a bleeding LCD but the digits are still sort of legible so I'm going to leave that for now.

This one was out by about 200mv when measuring a 1.5v battery (it read about 1.7v with the leads one way then about -1.2v when the leads were reversed).

When I opened it up there was very minor discolouration in the areas around the two caps but you really had to look closely. Although the screw on the grey thing holding the flex strip was very corroded.

Anyway, I fitted these Panasonic 22uF 16v caps (it was a little tight next to the resistor array) ...

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/2286638/

And I cleaned up the corroded looking areas with deionised water on cotton buds, then again with IPA on cotton buds.

All the screws and other removable bits I just cleaned with washing up liquid and wrinsed under tap water.

Gave the case a good scrub and cleaned up anything related to what looked like a leaking 9v battery in the past.

Now it has a difference of 0.004v compared to my uni-t 50a