Bought from DinoDirect along with an Uni-T infrared thermometer, paid $28.72 after coupons for it.
Link to product on DinoDirect:
http://www.dinodirect.com/inductance-capacitance-meter-multifunctio-uni-t-ut602.htmlUnitrend's page with the specs:
http://www.uni-trend.com/UT602.html#Note: The UT602 has no Capacitance checking, only UT603 has. So it's not really a LCR meter, it's more like a LR meter with transistor checking/diode/continuity. I needed it for the L part, don't care about the rest.
Ok... well, first impressions... feels solid in hand, the red protective cover sticks to the meter well but it's so-so in the quality department - has the feeling of cheaper covers, more like plastic instead of rubber or silicone, gives me the feeling that if i'd pull the meter out several times the cover may remain stretched instead of molding back in place.
On/Off and Hold buttons are not temporary, they keep state, like ball point pens' buttons. Screen is big and sharp
Battery seems nice, was shipped in the box with the meter but as you can see with the terminals sealed from factory, don't know if it's standard for this meter or maybe it was added by DinoDirect to the package. Assume it's standard because it says "not for resale" on the battery.
(later edit: it's original uni-t one, I see the same model with the same battery pictured on dealextreme)
The leads are short and with "crocodile teeth" at the end they're insulated all the way, but the round protective plastic where you plug them in the meter is VERY hard, almost like the plastic of the meter itself. They went into the plugs with a bit of pressing, more than what I'd consider normal.
The teeth themselves are easy to work with, they keep resistors and stuff in them and you don't need superhuman power to open or close them.
All screws on the exterior are the self tap kind, you remove a screw to get access to the battery and under the lid, there's one of the screws for the whole case. You kinda need to remove the red cover to gain access to the other two screws for the case.
There's a sort of channel on the case so the two sides of the case are somewhat sealed when everything is screwed in place.. the case feels nice in hands.
Inside, some basic fuse as you can see, everything about the selection wheel is on that mini pcb which connects to the main pcb with two sets of pins, but it's also screwed down properly with several screws to the main board.
I'm not so sure I like how the battery metal clips make contact with the pcb... just by pressure inside. You can see what I mean from the pictures. Still, better than having wires imho.
Sorry about no pictures with what's under the LCD, which is probably just the main chip. If someone's really interested I'll open it up again, I just didn't want to to screw with the screen at 3 AM in the morning.
Oh... don't count on this meter for continuity tests.. low beeper volume, not latching (you can hear the scratches), actual solid beep is about a second after leads touch, so it's also slow.
Only did some very basic tests which aren't conclusive, because I used the default leads on the UT61E which may affect measurements. Tested some diodes and a 10k resistor on it... didn't do much because i did the teardown while watching dave's 400th live show...
The diodes are consistently reported a bit under what the UT61E says, for example ut602 says 937mV, UT61E say 956mV..
The 10k 1% resistor measures 9965 ohm, this UT602 reports 9.9 ... so yeah, can't say anything about it.
As for the rest, I'll leave the pictures to talk... I only did some basic stuff, it's very late and I just wanted to post pictures and I can add stuff if leave a question or some notes.
First set below:
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