SEt it to the minimum and stuck a 10A load on it, the wires should easily drop the rest
YEah that's what I was thinking to--yeah, 10A at 3 volts, suuuure.
Anyway, I get a reply from the vendor/manufacturer. I do like the honesty of Chinese vendors.
"Hello,
We tested it with load tester in the laboratory, the minimum output voltage is 3.5 ~ 4V, the maximum output voltage is 11.8 ~ 12.3v, with an error of about 0.5V.
The smaller the voltage is, the more accurate the components, and the higher the cost. And the smaller the voltage is, the more sensitive it is to the changes of temperature and magnetic field.
If the minimum voltage reaches below 3V, the cost will double. This is a compromise between cost and precision. I hope you can understand. If this product does not meet your requirements, we can issue full refund. Sorry.
Best regards
SHNITPWR"
So, ok, it says 3V to 12V and I expected 3V, but with that explanation, I'm ok with the unit at this point, especially since it's free. It will work. I need it for 5-12V anyway, and under 5amps.
The problem I have is that I have another one of these in a NON LED version from another vendor. It's really small and looks like a wall wart, but a little bigger. It's 3-12V and 2 Amps max. When I tested it is was spot on all the way through from 3V (3.3V) on up. Other reviewers actually loaded it and said it was true to it's specs, and actually would cut off automatically after 2.5Amps.
The Shintpower unit is 30 bucks! that's probably why it's 10 Amps. I'll ask the dude when I write him back how the 10 A spec is rated.
Maybe I'll collect all of these units I can and sell them on Craig's List, and get myself a bench power supply which I really want.
Question: If I have over 8 multi-meters and I get a bench power supply, does that qualify me as an electronics geek? Or, do I need a scope to get to that level?