How bad is the result?
For a cheap meter I do not see it as that bad:
The mA range is usual located so you do not need to pass through it except when measuring A or mA. I.e. it will not see that many passes.
For the other ranges on the meter I would not expect a ohm or two in the range switch is a serious problem.
For the more expensive meters I hope the range switch will lasts considerable longer.
The switch is commonly used to control the power to the meter. Of the meters I purchased to run, two of them would not power up because of problems with the switch. The switch may not just hard fail but instead start to become intermittent. I have ran into this with some of my old meters. As a matter of fact, when I first started working on the transient testing, one of the meters I tested was my old BK Precision which the switch was going bad on.
I really have no idea if its a common problem with handheld meters or not. It's not really my objective to determine this. Like the transient testing, I am really just looking at how the different meters compare against some standard way of testing them.
As to how bad this particular switch is, it's really bad. Your feeling that it is not so bad is partly my fault. I have zoomed into the sub 2 ohms but the resistance is off the graph.
The switch continues to cycle and these are up to date graphs with it zoomed out to 150 ohms and 10M. The switch has started to open up at 3000 cycles. In this case, I am calling one cycle switching from off to on then back to off. The cycle rate is currently fixed for one cycle every 2 seconds. I am running it slower to minimize heat buildup.
It is very possible that the meter would have had trouble powering up long before the switch started to go open. And again, maybe this is good enough for many people. And again, to be clear this is a damaged meter. The data I have collected so far is really just to get an idea how to run the test, not to try and suggest a meter has a bad switch design or not.