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For me personally, I would take the BM235 over the ZT102/AN8002 for basic electrical work any day. Sure, it costs a little more but its also certified and is a lot more robust. If I needed a pocket meter for light electrical work, I would still go with the 101. I have no need for current or the TRMS feature and I am not at all a fan of having a shared current input. I would rather have the robustness the 101 offers.
For the bench, I'll stick with the Brymen BM869s for now. It's not as robust as some of the meters I have looked at but it has many features that I tend to use. I think my next pick would be that CEM DT9939 that Ruby sold for $120. That was a deal. Again, not a super robust meter, lots of drift with temperature but hard to beat that price with the features.
If the UNI-T UT181A had been more robust (electrically and mechanically) along with addressing the other concerns I have with it, it would be a very nice meter. As it comes from the factory, I'm not impressed with it but I feel it's better than the TPI 194II was. Now that was an over priced princess.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrcxnbkkhYg&feature=youtu.be
I haven't seen that screw driver tester in 30 years, nice find.
Awesome test! You made the ZT102 hop, skip, and then turn into a 4th of July fireworks display! Excellent SLOW MO shot.
I didn't think it would get as far as it did. I'm still interested in the Woods meter, just to have in my travel bag, but again was surprised the ZT102 did better overall in robust tests, perhaps the UL listing makes the Woods cost more?
Do you think the ZT102 would pass tests for a UL listing?
Thanks for testing the fuse as well, since I'll never use the ZT for current, good to know if I blow the fuse, it will still work in the other modes, can't thank you enough for revealing that! I'm tired of tracking down oddball replacement fuses.