DMM Recommendation Under $150

[Fungus]

While it sounds like I'm "bashing" them, I'm not, I'm simply pointing out that: 1) nobody is perfect, and 2) your priorities might be different from the next person.

Dave, et., al are a bit elitist. There's nothing wrong with that but you have to remember it is possible to get work done with "lesser" equipment.

Knowledge is often more important than the equipment you use, and knowledge is free these days.

PS: Try watching Big Clive as a contrast to EEVBLOG.

[wraper]

I did close from top first then towards bottom but as soon as I release pressure, it gap itself again

You should close it under something like 20^o angle so there is 1cm+ gap on the bottom, and then press on top quite hard until it clicks. Broken hook might obstruct it from closing properly too. Either remove it, or glue it in place where it should be.

[J-R]

While it sounds like I'm "bashing" them, I'm not, I'm simply pointing out that: 1) nobody is perfect, and 2) your priorities might be different from the next person.

Dave, et., al are a bit elitist. There's nothing wrong with that but you have to remember it is possible to get work done with "lesser" equipment.

Knowledge is often more important than the equipment you use, and knowledge is free these days.

PS: Try watching Big Clive as a contrast to EEVBLOG.

I don't think Dave is elitist as he covers a broad range of topics and equipment.  I am more referring to taking someone's words at face value and not doing your own research. 

Information is free, knowledge is not.  Where possible I try to add knowledge to discussions in addition to just pure information.

Sure, I frequently watch Big Clive along with many other channels.

[Fungus]

Dave, et., al are a bit elitist.

I don't think Dave is elitist as he covers a broad range of topics and equipment.

OK, that's maybe the wrong word. 

He likes using the good stuff though, you won't see him using an Aneng meter in one of his videos unless it's an Aneng review video.

If this is the only channel you watch you might get the impression that Anengs aren't good enough for "real" work.

[rsjsouza]

Dave, et., al are a bit elitist.

I don't think Dave is elitist as he covers a broad range of topics and equipment.

OK, that's maybe the wrong word. 

He likes using the good stuff though, you won't see him using an Aneng meter in one of his videos unless it's an Aneng review video.

If this is the only channel you watch you might get the impression that Anengs aren't good enough for "real" work.

I personally think that "a bit elitist" is the right expression here. I don't think this detracts from his excellent reviews of many things, but it indicates he also may miss the mark for someone living in a peripheral country with limited and prohibitely expensive name brand gear. The job still needs to be done and therefore the acceptability threshold is a lot lower.

This is always relative between the presenter and the audience. In a video where I disassemble a few CFL I occasionally get called an elitist for not fixing and putting back together US$1.00 lightbulbs. (my intent was never that). 

I am more referring to taking someone's words at face value and not doing your own research. 

100% true. Perusing some of the threads here, there is a natural bias to suggest the upper echelons of DMMs but that is excessive in several cases. Similar thing happens with oscilloscopes.

[antonioZth]

You should close it under something like 20^o angle so there is 1cm+ gap on the bottom, and then press on top quite hard until it clicks. Broken hook might obstruct it from closing properly too. Either remove it, or glue it in place where it should be.

I re-read your previously highlighted reply, and I decide to open the DMM back again...

As you mentioned, the reason for the cover not to be able to close is because the protruding plastic hinges/flaps broke on both top side... I've set aside the meter in a graphics card anti static bag and will order either Araldite or Loctite Superglue. Most of the shops near my house only has normal adhesive such as Dunlop rubber cement, and UHU glue... which I think wont be strong enough compare to Araldite... my last Araldite tube was already harden and can't be use anymore....And thanks to lockdown, I can't travel more than 10km from my house to my nearest Ace Hardware store...

The smaller break which holds the PCB is no where to be found...

[nctnico]

I am more referring to taking someone's words at face value and not doing your own research. 

Only a fool would take anyone's word at face value. 

[wraper]

I re-read your previously highlighted reply, and I decide to open the DMM back again...

That's brutal. I guess you used a lot of force when opening, instead trying to release hooks more gently by pushing back cover in a way thaе hooks somewhat move out of recesses. Those hooks IME and IMHO are almost impossible to break. BTW I have a good back cover which was barely used, it's only lacking battery contacts since they corroded when batteries leaked. I was forced to buy full assembly since keysight did not sell contacts separately. I also recommend you to replace batteries with LSD NiMH rechargeables because of that.

[antonioZth]

That's brutal. I guess you used a lot of force when opening, instead trying to release hooks more gently by pushing back cover in a way thaе hooks somewhat move out of recesses. Those hooks IME and IMHO are almost impossible to break. BTW I have a good back cover which was barely used, it's only lacking battery contacts since they corroded when batteries leaked. I was forced to buy full assembly since keysight did not sell contacts separately. I also recommend you to replace batteries with LSD NiMH rechargeables because of that.

The back cover is available via Keysight website for USD35 https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/U1271-64401 
I don't know if that is include shipping fees to me or I still need to pay for it....

" alt="" class="bbc_img" />

Maybe it cracked because I open from the back by lifting the bottom part first.... my noob mistake....    Owh well, a free lesseon thru experience for me indeed....

[rsjsouza]

Maybe it cracked because I open from the back by lifting the bottom part first.... my noob mistake....    Owh well, a free lesseon thru experience for me indeed....

We have all been there.

I would just point out that its original safety is not guaranteed anymore (the CAT stuff) - just be careful if you are working on something higher voltage. A proper seal on the DMM housing is part of its safety. 

[nctnico]

Maybe it cracked because I open from the back by lifting the bottom part first.... my noob mistake....    Owh well, a free lesseon thru experience for me indeed....

We have all been there.

Yep. At least this multimeter doesn't have a bunch of hybrids which can be crushed/broken when the case is closed the wrong way 

[wraper]

The back cover is available via Keysight website for USD35 https://www.keysight.com/my/partDetail/U1271-64401 
I don't know if that is include shipping fees to me or I still need to pay for it....

I thought sending it for like $10 delivered, if you want.

[Fungus]

I personally think that "a bit elitist" is the right expression here. I don't think this detracts from his excellent reviews of many things, but it indicates he also may miss the mark for someone living in a peripheral country with limited and prohibitely expensive name brand gear. The job still needs to be done and therefore the acceptability threshold is a lot lower.

I just watched this video...

Before you watch it you have to imagine Dave sat in his lab surrounded by Tagarno microscopes and professional studio lighting asking Big Clive how he takes those amazing photos of PCBs that he uses on his channel.

This was Big Clive's reply:


Big Clive often uses DT830 multimeters on his channel. I don't think he even owns an oscilloscope. He's also not afraid of mains AC and his favorite circuit seems to be the capacitive dropper.

[EEVblog]

While it sounds like I'm "bashing" them, I'm not, I'm simply pointing out that: 1) nobody is perfect, and 2) your priorities might be different from the next person.

Dave, et., al are a bit elitist.

So elitist I reviewed and recommended a $25 multimeter

[EEVblog]

Dave, et., al are a bit elitist.

I don't think Dave is elitist as he covers a broad range of topics and equipment.

OK, that's maybe the wrong word. 
He likes using the good stuff though, you won't see him using an Aneng meter in one of his videos unless it's an Aneng review video.
If this is the only channel you watch you might get the impression that Anengs aren't good enough for "real" work.

Why on earth wouldn't I want to use my own branded meter in my videos? 
My $100 BM235 I use in most of my videos is hardly "elitist" 

[EEVblog]

I personally think that "a bit elitist" is the right expression here. I don't think this detracts from his excellent reviews of many things, but it indicates he also may miss the mark for someone living in a peripheral country with limited and prohibitely expensive name brand gear. The job still needs to be done and therefore the acceptability threshold is a lot lower.

I just watched this video...

Before you watch it you have to imagine Dave sat in his lab surrounded by Tagarno microscopes and professional studio lighting asking Big Clive how he takes those amazing photos of PCBs that he uses on his channel.

This was Big Clive's reply:

And before he posted that that I posted my own showing how to build one for almost nothing:

[Fungus]

It wasn't meant as a criticism in any way. You've also shown us how to build our own $10 RF probes and a lot of your fancy test gear is auction/salvage stuff.

[EEVblog]

And if you want to know the story behind the light box video. Clive wasn't going to release info on that, he wanted to keep it secret, which is why I censored him showing it in the live chat with the other Youtubers. And I was fine with that.
So I experimented with my own version as I've been meaning to do for years, and published my one. I didn't mention Clive in my video because I didn't want him to get pestered by people wanting to know his "secret"
But I guess once Clive saw my video on it, and because I did goof the censoring of it in the video, he probably got pestered enough to reveal his own one which he did.

[EEVblog]

While it sounds like I'm "bashing" them, I'm not, I'm simply pointing out that: 1) nobody is perfect, and 2) your priorities might be different from the next person.
So it pays to do your homework.

I don't think there is a single review of anything where I have not mentioned that your requirements, and your idea of bang-per-buck, and what country you are in etc might differ.

[Fungus]

You also do a lot to educate and teach and your new meter shows that Fluke 87Vs simply aren't necessary, that a $150 meter can be better. It's all good.

The thing I was trying to say is that you tend to work surrounded by fancy stuff that most of us can never hope to own.

I don't want to call you 'eliteist' as a person, because you're not, but your work environment is.

(nb. I'm well aware that there's people on here who have even better stuff than you and that they're part of your audience, too)

[EEVblog]

Hi there peeps,

Ok, I’m no EE, not an electrician and definitely not an electronic repair guy. I’m definitely not going near high voltages 1000v power box. I own 2 cheapies DMM which is crap, a 10 dollar and analog Sanwa ripoff I got for free last 18 years

But can anyone help me in deciding which of the DMM would be the best for my budget. I’ll be poking around small headphone audio amplifiers, headphones, computers, just small electronics mostly... The most I’ll be poking is maybe my computer PSU.

My shortlist;

Fluke 17b+ RM450 AX No Warranty
Uni-T 195DS RM590 AX No Warranty
Uni-T 71E RM600 Local 1yr Warranty
Mastech MS8218 RM550 AX No Warranty
BK Precision 2712 RM550 Mouser 1yr Warranty
Keysight U1231A RM549 Mouser 3yrs Warranty

Prices are in Malaysian Ringgit, AX is Aliexpress, Local is my local e-commerce portal and my local Mouser. Here we also have others such as Digikey, RS and element14 but mouser seems to have a cheaper pricing (I don’t know why)....But hey if there is any other Brands or Model you think I missed out, feel free to recommend it here too...

Thanks in advance

As others have said. Brymen should certainly be considered. Either the BM235 or new BM786.
The Uni-T UT61E always comes up in the bang-per-buck stakes, and is excellent for the price. But Uni-T can be very hit and miss. e.g. the other meters in the UT61 line are pretty crap, only the E model is any good. Some models are now UL listed but not all.
Other factors like size and features like EF testing and visual continuity should be considered.

[EEVblog]

You also do a lot to educate and teach and your new meter shows that Fluke 87Vs simply aren't necessary, that a $150 meter can be better. It's all good.
The thing I was trying to say is that you tend to work surrounded by fancy stuff that most of us can never hope to own.
I don't want to call you 'eliteist' as a person, because you're not, but your work environment is.

And you hardly ever see it.
In videos I use mostly a low end $100 meter and a simple low end scope, albeit a Keysight (because I like its small size and the black case helps with camera exposure)
Sure I use a Tagarno microscope because it produces the best visual result for my audience, but even then I've done videos on cheap equivalents.
I have an expensive JBC iron, but I use a cheaper Pace model on camera mostly.

If you want the extreme end of the bell curve:
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheSignalPathBlog

[Fungus]

The Uni-T UT61E always comes up in the bang-per-buck stakes, and is excellent for the price. But Uni-T can be very hit and miss. e.g. the other meters in the UT61 line are pretty crap, only the E model is any good.

The big problem I see with the UT61E is that you don't know what will be inside. Some are OK, but there's Chinese variants with less components on the PCB (usually the safety components). If you're buying online then it's the luck of the draw.

See here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut61e-multimeter-teardown-photos/msg1437056/#msg1437056

[EEVblog]

The Uni-T UT61E always comes up in the bang-per-buck stakes, and is excellent for the price. But Uni-T can be very hit and miss. e.g. the other meters in the UT61 line are pretty crap, only the E model is any good.

The big problem I see with the UT61E is that you don't know what will be inside. Some are OK, but there's Chinese variants with less components on the PCB (usually the safety components). If you're buying online then it's the luck of the draw.

I thought that an issue from a few years ago and they wer pretty consistent now? If not, that's a shame. Still good bang-per-buck though.

[Fungus]

The Uni-T UT61E always comes up in the bang-per-buck stakes, and is excellent for the price. But Uni-T can be very hit and miss. e.g. the other meters in the UT61 line are pretty crap, only the E model is any good.

The big problem I see with the UT61E is that you don't know what will be inside. Some are OK, but there's Chinese variants with less components on the PCB (usually the safety components). If you're buying online then it's the luck of the draw.

I thought that an issue from a few years ago and they wer pretty consistent now? If not, that's a shame. Still good bang-per-buck though.

This guy (who's an EEVBLOG forum member) got even less inside his:

https://lygte-info.dk/review/Review%20UNI-T%20UT61E%20UK.html



There's a redesigned UT61E+ with a red selector switch that's been available since a couple of months ago, maybe that's different.



They wasted a whole selector position on "hFE" though...