Decent lab bench for a beginner EE?

[KayEE]

Hi guys! I am an EE student in my last year of school and a new member on this forum. Recently, I have been planning to build a decent lab bench at home so that I can make electronics with confidence. I have been doing some research online with a limited budget of around ~1200CAD. Here is a list of essential items I am thinking of buying:

Hakko FX-888D soldering iron (with tweezers, magnifier, solder wick, Solder Spool)
Rigol DS1054Z 50 MHz Digital Oscilloscope
Saleae Logic Anazyler 8 channels 100 MS/s
Uni-T UT139C mulmiteter

I am feeling a bit confused about the PSU. Since I am located in Canada, we only have limited choice for PSUs. I was thinking of TENMA 72-8335A Triple Output PSU (2 x 0~24VDC, 0~1A  and 1 x 5VDC, 2A) for 110 CAD:
http://canada.newark.com/tenma/72-8335a/power-supply-3ch-24v-2a-adjustable/dp/47X1648 .

This has been my research so far. I would highly appreciate any feedback/suggestions on the listed items. If you would like to recommend me a different PSU available in Canada at a similar price point, I would love to hear from you.

Thanks,

Kay

[billfernandez]

Your general approach looks good.  You might want to see if you can find an affordable power supply where the third (low) voltage supply can output 3.3VDC, which is an increasingly common supply voltage for digital logic.  You might also want to add a general-purpose signal generator.

[TAMHAN]

I would try snapping one of the HP 662x PSUs used from ebay...if you can live with the fan noise (wife or family) and the quite severe magnetic emissions which piss off most combiscopes if too close.

Also, an AWG IMHO is a must. But that would probably go out of your price range...

[Fungus]

I think you need at least two multimeters (so you can look at two values at once).

I'd get one good one and one cheap-ish one.

You also need mutimeter leads with hooks/crocodile clips so you can hook it up and leave it there.

[Kamkut17]

Being pretty new to the whole scheme of things, take my advice with a pinch of salt, but I dont see you including some sort of helping hands tool, or at least a PCB Vice, which in my opinion, is essential. You have no idea how frustrating it is to be soldering something and it just flies all over the place because it isnt supported. 20-30€ is all that a decent quality helping hands tool will cost, and it should come with a magnifying glass.

You'll want 2 multimeters for measureing voltage and current at the same time.
If you are having trouble with finding a PSU, build one yourself! Dave has brilliant videos where he explains all the steps he goes through when designing something like that.

And also, dont forget the mini-fridge with refreshments

EDIT: I'm assuming you have already seen daves video, but just in case, here it is

[KayEE]

Some additions to the list after reading comments:

Another multimeter ($50 - $100) - Still looking
Helping Hand Soldering Stand + Magnifier
Breadboard/Jumper wire kit

PSU - Still Undecided/Looking.
Signal generator(Entry level) - Still Undecided/Looking

I won't mind building a small PSU with 3.3VDC/5VDC output but still I want to buy a decent PSU so I don't have to deal with mains at this point

[Fungus]

More stuff:

A good magnifying glass.
Decent lighting (eg. a couple of LED lamps on flexible arms).
Some sort of storage drawer/box system for organizing all the little things you'll soon be accumulating.

After that ... you have to decide what sort of stuff you'll be building.

[nanofrog]

As for DMM's, you could opt for a Brymen BM257S as your good meter (~$125 - $135* shipped), and a Uni-T 139C as your less expensive unit (~$44C).

FWIW, most of the helping hands with alligator clips fall over too easily. You'd be better off getting a Panavise IMHO (Panavise Jr. isn't terribly expensive, but it is limited as to what it can do). Another alternative is DIY your own out of CNC coolant hose (segmented type; there's plenty of information on these and Panavises if you search the forum). 

As per breadboard, look for Wisher (decent quality, yet not too expensive; Taiwanese origin).

I'd also suggest getting a proper 2 layer rubber ESD mat (think large place mat size, such as 24"x30"). And there happens to be an eBay seller, canvu0_0, based out of Canada (good prices, and shipping should be reasonable too). This not only can help with ESD, but it can handle molten solder and impacts, so it will protect the table beneath it. FWIW, I've purchased a mat from this seller, and it's of excellent quality (mat is made in Canada by Scientific Americas).

I'd also like to reinforce the mention of test leads & connector ends. I find Probemaster to offer quality at good prices as they sell directly to their customers (shipping via USPS & UPS). Personally, I'd suggest looking at the modular 9000 series, as the connectors attach directly to the lead, not to a non-removable probe (probe adds weight to the test point = tends to slip off a lot more often).

Regarding supplies such as solder, wick, and additional flux, I'd suggest buying quality (better performance will reduce the number of issues with lifted pads and such, as well as reduced aggravation). Brands to look for would include Kester, Alpha Metals (Cookson), AIM (American Iron & Metals), Multicore/Henkel, MG Chemicals (particularly for liquid Rosin 835 in 125ml bottles**), and Indium.

As per power supplies, I'm partial to quality used units. Particularly those with multiple outputs as you get a much better value & quality than new (i.e. pennies on the dollar vs. new prices). Some examples currently listed on eBay.ca:

• HP 6236B (+/- 20V @ 500mA can do a lot & 0-6V @ 0-2.5A; useful with op-amps)
• Leader LPS 152 (+/-25V @ 0-1A, 0-6V @ 0-5A)
• Lambda LPT-7202-FM (2x 0-20V @ 0-1.5A, 0-7V @ 0-5A)
• BK Precision 1651 (2x 0-24V @ 0-500mA, 0-5V @ 0-4A)

* I'm guessing Franky is out of stock ATM (memberID = iloveelectronics).
** Dispensing can be done with a brush bottle (think nail polish bottle), brush pen (i.e BON-102; those on eBay are very likely counterfeits), needle bottle, or even just dip a small paint brush.

[TAMHAN]

Re Multimeters: I have recently restored my Keithley 177 which was dirt cheap. IMHO, it is great value....I paid like 39$ or so plus shipment.

[rdl]

The BK Precision 1651 is a nice little all around power supply. Mine came in the avocado green and burnt mustard color scheme. Tektronix also sold a version which came in colors that fit in a little better with the rest of the lab equipment. I have a digital volt meter waiting to be installed, but I'm keeping the analog amp meter.

[nanofrog]

The BK Precision 1651 is a nice little all around power supply. Mine came in the avocado green and burnt mustard color scheme. Tektronix also sold a version which came in colors that fit in a little better with the rest of the lab equipment. I have a digital volt meter waiting to be installed, but I'm keeping the analog amp meter.

They're definitely prettier, but the least expensive one I found that appears to be fully function and has a return policy comes in ~$193C shipped (here, assuming BIN price; though there is a Make Offer button  ).

OP: If you don't care about appearance, or they don't like your offers, go for the BK Precision 1651 linked above if this is the unit you'd prefer operationally speaking, as they're all decent units IMHO.

BTW, you should be able to find free .pdf copies of the Operator Manuals online (KO4BB's site and BAMA are good starting points  )  . Particularly to help figure out wiring the output terminals when there's either a Series/Parallel/Independent or Tracking/Independent switch involved if needed. 

There are other brands of course, and come in other output counts (i.e. single, dual, or even quad output). I just searched for triple output models as they're common enough and offer more value than single or dual outputs generally speaking. Not so many quad output units, so expect higher prices per output than triple supplies.

[rdl]

There always seems to be a few jerks on ebay that try and sell the Tek version at ridiculous prices. I guess because of the brand name. They do show up fairly frequently at decent prices though. I paid $99 plus $15 shipping for the one in the picture. I paid about$25 less for the BK version I bought 10 years ago. They're both pretty good power supplies. The Tek is rated a bit more conservatively, but I've never actually open both at the same time to see what the real differences are.

[mos6502]

I wouldn't buy a PSU with an analog meter. Can you set it to 1.8V for your FPGA supply? 4.2V to charge a lithium cell? No, you have to hook up your multimeter. Very annoying. Worse than slide rules.

Now, PSUs are the one item where you can save lots of money. You can get fixed 13.8V PSUs really cheap. You can get a 4-6 amp rated one for like $20. If you get the right one, it has an LM723 inside. Cut a PCB track, slap in a pot, bam, you have a 1.5V-15V adjustable PSU with excellent regulation and stability. Slap in another 50 cents worth of parts and another pot, and you have adjustable current limiting from 0mA. Add one of those chinese 4 digit volt/amp meters and you have a really nice power supply for next to nothing.

[grouchobyte]

The BK Precision 1651 is a nice little all around power supply. Mine came in the avocado green and burnt mustard color scheme. Tektronix also sold a version which came in colors that fit in a little better with the rest of the lab equipment. I have a digital volt meter waiting to be installed, but I'm keeping the analog amp meter.

LOL. Never noticed this, but the B channel is on the left the Voltage and Current adjustments are on the right. Ass backwards. Also the A/B switch is vertical and not super intuitive in its location. Probably better served on the right side of the panel.  I bet that GUI caused plenty of magic smoke  when unwittingly reaching over late at night and diddling the wrong controls based on intuition. Way to go Tek. I was there then in a different group, but fortunately far away from the retarded marketing wanks that let this happen.

[nanofrog]

LOL. Never noticed this, but the B channel is on the left the Voltage and Current adjustments are on the right. Ass backwards. Also the A/B switch is vertical and not super intuitive in its location. Probably better served on the right side of the panel.  I bet that GUI caused plenty of magic smoke  when unwittingly reaching over late at night and diddling the wrong controls based on intuition. Way to go Tek. I was there then in a different group, but fortunately far away from the retarded marketing wanks that let this happen.

Tektronix rebranded them, as did BK Precision (ODM = Escort?*). FWIW, Escort was acquired by Agilent/Keysight in 2008**, which became the basis for their hand held product line.

Sadly, we're starting to derail the thread, so let's try to stay on track. 

* Source.
** Source.

[grouchobyte]

LOL. Never noticed this, but the B channel is on the left the Voltage and Current adjustments are on the right. Ass backwards. Also the A/B switch is vertical and not super intuitive in its location. Probably better served on the right side of the panel.  I bet that GUI caused plenty of magic smoke  when unwittingly reaching over late at night and diddling the wrong controls based on intuition. Way to go Tek. I was there then in a different group, but fortunately far away from the retarded marketing wanks that let this happen.

Tektronix rebranded them, as did BK Precision (ODM = Escort?*). FWIW, Escort was acquired by Agilent/Keysight in 2008**, which became the basis for their hand held product line.

Sadly, we're starting to derail the thread, so let's try to stay on track. 

* Source.
** Source.

Those were the days when Tektronix was imploding. I'm not sure they ever recovered from those dark days. It's funny and sad to think about. Okay, you can have your thread back now....

[KayEE]

Thank you all for your valuable advice

I liked the idea of buying a good meter (BM257S) with a less expensive one (Uni-T 139C). I will add ESD mat, test leads, storage system, Panavise Jr. and soldering supplies to my list. Also, good to know that I can buy a used PSU from a named brand or modify a cheap 13.8V PSU.

[TAMHAN]

I would check AliExpress. They sell a nice bit of stuff really cheap. Small things like tools and suchcrap...I also get my soldering tin and shite there.

Beware of the ESD mats though, which can be stinky.

[ROBOT]

Why are you limited on power supplies in Canada? The shipment or the mains voltage?

[TomB19]

Why would anyone prefer the UT139C over a UT61E for an electronics bench?

[nanofrog]

I will add ESD mat...

I forgot to mention; getting a kit simplifies matters as it includes a ground point/block and a wrist strap. Mat only means you'll have to add these bits separately, though it does allow you to get precisely what you want and/or go after better quality if you wish. Or like me, find a wrist strap that fits & keeps proper contact.   

Why would anyone prefer the UT139C over a UT61E for an electronics bench?

20,000 counts is nice, but isn't a necessity. And as a beginner, I have to assume has a higher risk of making mistakes. So based on that logic, it's better to have the improved safety of the UT139C over the UT61E. This will also allow the OP to branch into checking the mains side of circuits without the need to purchase new tools. 

Once the OP's up to speed on proper use and understands the limitations of any particular piece of gear, then cheaper meters may be warranted.

[KayEE]

Why are you limited on power supplies in Canada? The shipment or the mains voltage?

I mean shipping and limited suppliers as compared to US. Tequipment and Saelig ship free for orders over $99 in US but charge $60-$110 for shipping to Canada. Also some items I found on ebay.com say "May not ship to Canada". So only options we have are ebay.ca, amazon.ca, digikey.ca, Mouser Canada and Newark Canada and may be few other.

Why would anyone prefer the UT139C over a UT61E for an electronics bench?

Also UT61E is missing temperature

I will add ESD mat...

I forgot to mention; getting a kit simplifies matters as it includes a ground point/block and a wrist strap. Mat only means you'll have to add these bits separately, though it does allow you to get precisely what you want and/or go after better quality if you wish. Or like me, find a wrist strap that fits & keeps proper contact.   

I assumed ground point/block and a wrist strap were obvious

[SkyMaster]

Hakko FX-888D soldering iron (with tweezers, magnifier, solder wick, Solder Spool)
Rigol DS1054Z 50 MHz Digital Oscilloscope
Saleae Logic Anazyler 8 channels 100 MS/s
Uni-T UT139C mulmiteter

I am feeling a bit confused about the PSU. Since I am located in Canada, we only have limited choice for PSUs. I was first thinking of TENMA 72-8335A Triple Output PSU (2 x 0~24VDC, 0~1A  and 1 x 5VDC, 2A) for 110 CAD:

You could consider the Weller WES51 over the Hakko FX-888D
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/stahl-soldering-station/msg872899/#msg872899
In Canada, at the consumer level, it seems that it is easier to obtain genuine Weller parts (like tips) than genuine Hakko parts

For a Power Supply, if buying new, I am partial to the GW Instek models
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/buying-a-power-supply-for-different-electronic-projects/msg893597/#msg893597
http://www.tradeport.on.ca sells the GW INSTEK GPS-2303 and other models, but I never dealt with them.

 

[ez24]

To OP  be sure to check the Beginner section of this forum

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/

there is a good list on stockpile

[Chris60601]

EDIT: I'm assuming you have already seen daves video, but just in case, here it is

Finished watching this about 30 minutes ago. Great work and there was a ton of things I didn't even consider.
For giggles, I went to Amazon to see if the kit (power supply) might be available - nada. I figured I would try the site.
I suppose just about any DIY kit out there would do. Of course, not real sure about the need (or diff) of linear or switched.

Chris