I modified a box of mine.. I was thinking of using BNC connectors in the actual unit but I didn't like having to plug 4 things in.. additionally, because of the box it wouldn't fit into the slot. So I originally had 2 shielded BNC 6" leads, 4 of them... I had red and black heat shrink tubing to denote ground or one section and the other section...
This worked well, but I hated the 4 connections and I didn't like the leads hanging out. It made it difficult with how much stuff was in the box. So I used GX16 connector, the Chinese airplane connector with screw cap... Ground is soldered directly to the threads to ensure ground goes through and to the shielding... It passes the calibration and works. I have 2 of the ebay alligator BNC wires ( $20 USD each or so ).. One I left with BNC, one has the GX16 connector on it.
It works, and I can keep the connection permanent but typically I have to remove it to put it in the box. There is less stuff to worry about int he box now that I have a single box - the tweezers were also modified to the GX16 connector and I have yet to do the small alligators as I'll probably keep that as a control module. I do have a spare set of tweezers too and another box I have disasembled.
Someone suggested I use audio XLR connectors - mini or normal. They are much higher quality, gold plated in some cases. I priced out the connectors as they are pricey but they don't screw on and have a designated ground pin. I would probably have a 1 inch lead coming out of the box too so it'll fit in the stock storage box as one issue I do have with the GX connector is that if I put the box in the unit first, then plug tweezers or the alligator clips in... I can't screw it in. I have to unplug it just a bit then I can push it in but it puts it at a slight slant. I don't want to modify the unit to let that fit as I'll probably screw it up and make it look bad, like I did with the box which I'll probably fix using spin welding.
Look for my posts, I have some photos, etc.. I think.
The GX16-4 connector ( the 4 pins are for each normal pin, and ground goes through the threads, then the shielding of the cable ) is the one I'm using.. I will probably switch to the higher quality XLR connectors because there is a built in ground tab to solder to, and the connectors come apart and go together much better. Plus the gold plating, etc... It'll cost quite a bit, but it will also make it much easier to just plug something in and use it, then I can plug something else in and go with it too.
Right now being able to plug in a single plug and have access to alligator clips on decently long leads is nice, plus the tweezers, etc... I can just plug in and use - no need to screw it in unless I want the ground but most don't use it... although it is probably a good thing to have the ground running through the shielding. Or, maybe it'll create a capacitor effect as power does run through the + wires.
Edit:
Also, when I go for the XLR connectors - instead of just having the ground running through the shield... I'm thinking of having the ground run through the shield, in addition having 1 pin as a ground too. so the 5 pin connector. Still debating on this. The point of this would be so if the ground tab has an issue, with the ground going straight to another pin, on each connector I can create a jumper to go from the pin I choose for ground, and the ground tab and the shielding. This way if there is ever an issue, or it ends up fitting loosely at some point in the future... the ground will be a solid connection regardless. This is probably overkill, and I won't be using 5 core wire... it will still be ground through the shielding, but to have the ground go through a pin as well as the connector would just ensure that connection.
What do you all think of that idea? Should I just go with the 4 pin with ground through the outside, or go with the 5 pin and the jumper? I'm leaning towards 5 pin just because it wouldn't be difficult to do and would make sure the ground is never in question. I've never worked with the XLR connectors so I'm not sure how well the outside connection fits - I'm assuming it is decent enough but while it can clip together, the connections have some black layer on the outside so I don't know if it is conductive or not. It could be, but it could also be a protective coating. The inside should be fine if the outside has a protective coating. But I'd rather be 100% especially as I haven't worked with them before - another reason for the 5 pin.
I am also planning on getting 1 or 2 main female connectors, and the rest male - 5 or so so I can create up to 5 connections. 2 are spoken for, and I may make a small alligator clip set too just to have it in the box especially as with needing only 1 box it would mean a lot more room in the carry box. I may make a second one just so I could swap between them - but I highly doubt the machine has any way to tell, unless in software, what is connected and how it was calibrated. If it can, then 2 boxes wouldn't be a bad idea to quickly switch from one thing to another... but unplugging something and plugging the other in could be just as effective if I don't need to calibrate... but I probably do.