Any more in-depth info on the YR1035+ battery tester / milliohm meter?

[Rooster Cogburn]

I just got my YR1035+ battery tester today. Seems to work fine. I primarily got it for measuring LiIon batteries but it seems it makes for a competent milliohm meter in general. I tried to use it for short finding and it can reliably find the shorted component between a number of parallel resistors. There are apparently some more advanced options and features but I can't really find a good manual. They all seem to be poorly translated and there are some differences between units. I assume mine is a clone since the 'YAOREA' name is absent from the front panel. Says version 2.2206 on startup.

Specifically, I'd be interested in the following:

- In one of the manuals I've found it says holding the HOLD key activates relative measurement. My unit doesn't seem to do that?
- I've seen some pictures with 'ZR' displayed under the measurement range indicators and some AE descriptions referencing 'ZR mode' and having it enabled by default. What is it and how do I turn it on?
- Menu option 7 & 8, calibration & factory reset seem to be disabled on my unit? I've read that some manufacturers do that. I don't think my unit needs calibration right now, but is there anything I can do to re-enable those?
- Menu option 9 has a sub-menu with two options 'BU' (set to 'OFF') and 'CR' (set to '7'). What are those?
- How safe is it to use this as a milliohm meter in a circuit? Like, what kind of voltage / current ranges am I exposing the circuit to?

Please let me know if you can answer any of these questions or have a better manual etc., thanks!

[RAPo]

Does this link help?

[DaneLaw]

search the forum it's been debated before.

[Rooster Cogburn]

Does this link help?

Seen that before, doesn't answer any of my questions

search the forum it's been debated before.

I did, nothing shows up.


One issue is that the YR1030/YR1035/YR2050/RC3563 and their various clones/off-brand units all seem to be kind of the same thing yet slightly different

[Phil1977]

I have a RC3563 and like it quite much.

The biggest issue with these 4-wire-meters is that they do not do a plausibility check of the 4W-connection. A keysight benchtop DMM displays no reading when one of the 4 wires is not connected, but the RC3563 often displays instable or inplausibly low or high values in that case. I don't want to complain due to the fact that you can get around 100 instruments of one type for the other, but it´s good to know that there is a cause for false readings.

Due to the same reason I build some pseudo-4W-test-leads where the L- and U-lines are both soldered to a short and sharp test needle. That way the contact resistance is of course not compensated, but for quick comparison of many parts it´s more reliable - and you can always fall back to the true 4W-leads if doubts arise.

Beside that it´s a really versatile tool. Not only for batteries but e.g. also for in-circuit test of capacitors or as a milliohm-meter for plugs or switches.

[Rooster Cogburn]

The biggest issue with these 4-wire-meters is that they do not do a plausibility check of the 4W-connection.

Immediately noticed that, at least it's common among this family of devices.

Due to the same reason I build some pseudo-4W-test-leads where the L- and U-lines are both soldered to a short and sharp test needle. That way the contact resistance is of course not compensated, but for quick comparison of many parts it´s more reliable - and you can always fall back to the true 4W-leads if doubts arise.

I thought about that as well, still have some DIY DMM probes lying around I could use for that. But wouldn't that effectively only eliminate the resistance of the leads from the equation? I'd assume contact resistance is the far bigger issue. When trying to use this meter in-circuit I noticed the dual tipped probes are too far apart to ever make contact with SMD parts.

Beside that it´s a really versatile tool. Not only for batteries but e.g. also for in-circuit test of capacitors or as a milliohm-meter for plugs or switches.

Ahh, yes, it used AC for resistance measurements, right? I already have an in-circuit ESR meter, was more thinking about using it for short finding. In a quick test I setup it was perfectly able to indentify which of the several resistors was the 0-Ohm one, so it should work.

I'll have to measure the current flow with my clamp meter but the open line voltage was already quite high. I'd be a bit afraid I'd fry something when doing measurements.