Any more in-depth info on the YR1035+ battery tester / milliohm meter?

[Rooster Cogburn]

I just got my YR1035+ battery tester today. Seems to work fine. I primarily got it for measuring LiIon batteries but it seems it makes for a competent milliohm meter in general. I tried to use it for short finding and it can reliably find the shorted component between a number of parallel resistors. There are apparently some more advanced options and features but I can't really find a good manual. They all seem to be poorly translated and there are some differences between units. I assume mine is a clone since the 'YAOREA' name is absent from the front panel. Says version 2.2206 on startup.

Specifically, I'd be interested in the following:

- In one of the manuals I've found it says holding the HOLD key activates relative measurement. My unit doesn't seem to do that?
- I've seen some pictures with 'ZR' displayed under the measurement range indicators and some AE descriptions referencing 'ZR mode' and having it enabled by default. What is it and how do I turn it on?
- Menu option 7 & 8, calibration & factory reset seem to be disabled on my unit? I've read that some manufacturers do that. I don't think my unit needs calibration right now, but is there anything I can do to re-enable those?
- Menu option 9 has a sub-menu with two options 'BU' (set to 'OFF') and 'CR' (set to '7'). What are those?
- How safe is it to use this as a milliohm meter in a circuit? Like, what kind of voltage / current ranges am I exposing the circuit to?

Please let me know if you can answer any of these questions or have a better manual etc., thanks!

[RAPo]

Does this link help?

[DaneLaw]

search the forum it's been debated before.

[Rooster Cogburn]

Does this link help?

Seen that before, doesn't answer any of my questions

search the forum it's been debated before.

I did, nothing shows up.


One issue is that the YR1030/YR1035/YR2050/RC3563 and their various clones/off-brand units all seem to be kind of the same thing yet slightly different

[Phil1977]

I have a RC3563 and like it quite much.

The biggest issue with these 4-wire-meters is that they do not do a plausibility check of the 4W-connection. A keysight benchtop DMM displays no reading when one of the 4 wires is not connected, but the RC3563 often displays instable or inplausibly low or high values in that case. I don't want to complain due to the fact that you can get around 100 instruments of one type for the other, but it´s good to know that there is a cause for false readings.

Due to the same reason I build some pseudo-4W-test-leads where the L- and U-lines are both soldered to a short and sharp test needle. That way the contact resistance is of course not compensated, but for quick comparison of many parts it´s more reliable - and you can always fall back to the true 4W-leads if doubts arise.

Beside that it´s a really versatile tool. Not only for batteries but e.g. also for in-circuit test of capacitors or as a milliohm-meter for plugs or switches.