ANENG AN8001, 6000 count true RMS Multimeter for $14.

[WhichEnt2]

I mean measurement conditions specific for test leads, it's not defined.
Anyone measure it in way they wanted and this make any information from that publications non usable to others.
I measure it not in series connection to avoid any inaccuracy from the contact resistance.

[Fungus]

I mean measurement conditions specific for test leads, it's not defined.
Anyone measure it in way they wanted and this make any information from that publications non usable to others.
I measure it not in series connection to avoid any inaccuracy from the contact resistance.

You can use both leads (red+black) in series and touch the probes together in the middle to simulate that.   

[Crumble]

I got the "Fluke" leads in too, and they seem quite good. I do not have a 4-wire capable meter, but the AN8008 shows them as being about 0,04\$\Omega\$ when shorted, making them half of that each, which is quite good. The leads do seem to contain some surface corrosion or plastic residue, because the sides make only intermittent contact upon touching. There's quite some "scrachyness" to them in continuity, even after cleaning with acetone and then contact spray. Visually I don't see anything obvious though. They do have a nice finish though, and they do "work". The CAT IV safetycaps have a very loose fit though (but I won't be using those, I'm not an electrician).

[joeqsmith]

I mean measurement conditions specific for test leads, it's not defined.
Anyone measure it in way they wanted and this make any information from that publications non usable to others.
I measure it not in series connection to avoid any inaccuracy from the contact resistance.

I don't remember seeing much in the standards about the test leads.  Maybe they have their own standards.  I ran some destructive test on several test leads some time ago where I was applying a stepped constant current through them and comparing the results.  I recently ran the leads supplied with the ZT102/AN8002 and show how they compare with the other leads I have looked at.   If I continue to look at test leads, I will just follow this same procedure.   

It would be nice to do some other tests like bending the leads in a tight radius until they fracture, a pull test, maybe a material and plating type/thickness.   

https://youtu.be/fG61v8UgzA8

[stj]

HELP MY RESEARCH!

i am looking for some 8001 / 8002 eeprom dumps from  meters that do NOT have frequency&duty cycle on the volts range.

i want to see if it's an undocumented bit in the eeprom.
if it is, we can enable it on other meters too - like UT-210e for example!
 

[Diabolo]

Hello,

On DMM ANG8001 and ZT101, the 500 mA fuse is only used for the mA function !
All other functions of the DMM go through the 10A fuse !
----
The 3.6x10mm fuses are repaired by drilling them through and then passing a fuse wire recovered on a fuse 5x20mm Quick of 500mA and welding this wire on the old fuse 3.6x10mm.

Regards,
Diabolo

[stj]

that is so wrong, firstly you never repair a fuse,
second the rating of the 20mm fuse was calculated based on the thickness AND length of the wire.
so you just increased the current before it blows by possibly double.

why didnt you just shift or replace the clips to use the 20mm fuse??

[Diabolo]

Hello,

I did not have a 3.6x10 fuse on hand, and these seem to be untraceable on the market.
The main thing is that my DMM ZT101 works on the mA range.

I did not try to install a 5x20 fuse, the space is too small.

As for the other ranges protected by a 10A fuse, the risk is equally important to toast the DMM.


Cdlt,
Diabolo

[Crumble]

I must be honest I have blown one of the fuses I had too (the 10A one). I have indeed repaired it by desoldering the original wire (the end caps are soldered shut) and replacing it with a strand of a 96 x 0.1mm hook-up wire. The original wire in the 10A fuse was ~0.25mm in diameter and made of copper. Nothing special here, I think the guys that made it read the wikipedia article on fusing current of copper wire here, as measured in 1888 bij Preece, there is nothing sophisticated going on here...



If you need a pre-made unit of these fuses, try these: http://eu.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0874.500MXEPvirtualkey57610000virtualkey576-0874.500MXEP.

They do have wires on both sides, but these are easily removed. You might find these specific types at other vendors too, but you'll have to look for them yourself. I bought the 2 last 800mA fast fuses of this size at Farnell.

[stj]

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/RONG6112
this guy has 10mm fuses.

[joeqsmith]

HELP MY RESEARCH!

i am looking for some 8001 / 8002 eeprom dumps from  meters that do NOT have frequency&duty cycle on the volts range.

i want to see if it's an undocumented bit in the eeprom.
if it is, we can enable it on other meters too - like UT-210e for example!
 

I tried the read the contents from the two meters I had damaged that did not have that feature.  All FFs now...

[Diabolo]

Hello,

10x3mm various fuse kit for repair.
- https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-lot-3-10mm-5-Values-FUSE-Assorted-Kit-M125-With-Pin-Electronic-Components-0-1A/32810067446.html?spm=a2g0w.10010108.1000014.2.2621b7949BCa0z&traffic_analysisId=recommend_3035_null_null_null&scm=1007.13338.80878.000000000000000&pvid=c7ade293-1f36-48a1-9b89-2e8f75c55c68&tpp=1

Diabolo

[Crumble]

That's good news, thanks for sharing. 

[stj]

i think i found it - helps if you have enough dumps to compare! 

if you want to have frequency/duty mode then set location FD =a0
if for some strange reason you want to get rid of it, change location FD = 90

let me know if it works for you. 

[exe]

BTW, AN800* looks to be suffering from the same problem as AN8008: ripple on one of power rails:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/an8008-us-$19-10000count-1uv-0-01ua-0-01ohm-resolution-meter/msg1261300/#msg1261300 . At least I observed this on my ZT102.

[001]

NEW MODEL 8009 RELEASED JUST NOW

New tread here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/latest-aneng-9999-dmm-invented!-an8009-now!/

[flash2b]

My RichMeters RM101 (which is the same as the Aneng AN8001) stopt working all of a sudden.

I cannot select (using the yellow select button) AC for V, mV, A and mA anymore. Also I cannot select continuity, diode and capacitance anymore. The only range that that still swiches pressing the yellow select is the Hz / % range.

The Yellow select button does work since it works on he Hz / % range and in all other range I can hear the beep.

I have not done anything with the meter and I never opened it, as a fact it has seen little use and this behaviour occured not during measurement or misue.

Does anyone know how to fix this? (it seems an EEPROM problem).

[sleemanj]

My RichMeters RM101 (which is the same as the Aneng AN8001) stopt working all of a sudden.

Tried new batteries? If they are getting a bit flat weird things might happen.

[flash2b]

Tried with new batteries, but no effect. The meter (bought 16-11-2016 on AliExpress) was not used for about 1/2 a year and like I said hasn't been used a lot due to the fact I have better meters around.

The meter still measures accurate, is now very limited since it doesn't switch to AC, continuity and diode anymore.

[plazma]

I had similar problems but it was caused by a misaligned wiper in the rotary switch.

[flash2b]

So your also didn't switch range using the Yellow key because of the wiper problem ?

[plazma]

So your also didn't switch range using the Yellow key because of the wiper problem ?

It may have been in wrong mode because of the wiper misalignment. But I noticed the yellow key did not work as expected.

[none]

Regarding the last few posts: my Richmeters 101 came with one wiper spring contact stuck so it did not make any contact. However, it was not bent, only stuck, so just a little nudge helped.

Hoping to be able to add serial output:

I bought it originally as it is supposedly based on a DTM660 and I was hoping to add serial output as described for a eM860T on http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/03/19/hacking-dtm0660l-based-multimeters/ (Datasheet translated to English at http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/04/03/dtm0660-datasheet-translated/ the original is supposed to be available via https://sigrok.org/wiki/Multimeter_ICs#Dream_Tech_International_DTM0660)
However, this apparently has not been done before for this model (I could not find anything).
One (EEPROM) hack, enabling temperature measurement (that is available on the AN8002 / ZT102 / RT102 / ...), is linked above in post #5 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/aneng-an8001-6000-count-true-rms-multimeter/msg1072397/#msg1072397) which is a Russian PDF. It (google-)translates to:

How to add a temperature measurement mode in the multimeter ZT101.
 
To make the temperature measurement mode in the multimeter ZT101 just need
change the values ​​of some cells EEPROM 24C02.
In the AFH cells, change the value to 13H (temperature centigrade), and in the cell BFH
change to 15H (Fahrenheit temperature).
The temperature measurement mode will be available in the “mV” selector position by pressing
the yellow button (mVDC → mVAC → ° C → ° F → mVDC). Alternating modes can
rearrange the values ​​in cells 8FH - BFH.
 
 
Example flashing 24S02 with PICKIT2.
 
1. First you need to set the jumpers between the control point VPP and contacts
JP2 (see picture). This is necessary to enable recording in 24С02 and transfer the processor to
reset state so as not to interfere with work with 24С02.
 
 
 
2. Connect the 24C02 to PICKIT2. For this you need only 3 wires. Can
use a clip. If there are no clips, then 3 wires are not difficult and solder.
 
 
3. Turn on the power of the multimeter by turning the selector to any position except OFF.
4. Connect PICKIT2 to the computer, run PICKIT2 Programmer, select 24С02 and
read the contents of the EEPROM by pressing the READ pedal. The content should look like
like on a picture. Some values ​​may vary.
 
It does not hurt to save the read dump to a file so that you can restore the factory
settings, in which case.
 
5. In cells 0AF and 0BF (circled in red), change the values ​​to 13 and 15. These are the modes
temperature measurements in degrees Celsius and Fahrenheit respectively. They can
swap.
6. Write the corrected dump to EEPROM 24C02 by pressing the WRITE pedal. Green field
in the event window will confirm successful recording.
7. Turn off the power of the multimeter, disconnect 24С02 from PICKIT2, remove the RESET- jumpers
GND-WP.
All. Now in the position of the selector ”mV” will be available two more modes. Mode selection
yellow button.
   
 
The thermocouple connects to the COM (black banana, “-”) and VΩHz (red banana, “+”) jacks.

To make use of the serial port, the REL button would have to be accessible.
However, of the five implemented in DTM660L (Function Keys: SELECT, RANGE, REL, HZ/DUTY, HOLD (BACKLIGHT), MAX/MIN, BACKLIGHT), the AN8001/RM101/ZT101 only has SEL(ECT) and HOLD (BACKLIGHT) as actual buttons, and a contact for RANGE internally.

The datasheet does not seem to specify the pins for the buttons.

This video by Vitalii Tereshchuk, "🗜UPGRADE Multimeter RICHMETERS ZT102, RM102 True RMS. Доработка мультиметра" at upgrades an ZT102 by adding four buttons: "Hz/%", REL, MIN/MAX, RANGE

and identifies the following pins / test points:

PT1.0 (left of battery holder)
PT1.1 (right of battery holder, connected to SW3 RANGE contact pattern)
"PT1.2" (not an actual pad and unlabelled, it's a via between the EEPROM and the IC blob

It seems to be a button matrix, and the connections are shown at 2m44s in the video (https://youtu.be/qFUTGubdvlQ?t=164):

HZ/DUTY	PT1.1 - PT1.0	RM101 in Hz/%: switches between Hz and % (same as SEL?)
REL	PT1.1 - PT1.2	RM101 in V: switches to delta
RANGE	PT1.1 - BAT- (VSS)	RM101 in V: switches to MANUAL and then sets decimal separator
MIN/MAX	PT1.2 - 1.0 (I assume PT1.0)	RM101 in V: switches to MANUAL between MAX and MIN

REL does not react to a long press (I'm just shorting PT1.1 and the via with test leads) yet, so reading/writing the EEPROM is next.
Also, the TX pin needs to be located on the board.
According to Kerry Wong's translated datasheet pinout, it would be pin 20 (PT1.4/TX) however, from his photos it appears other pins might be used (and connected to D9).
TP1.4/TX would be pin 20, just after the I2C lines for the EEPROM.
Thanks to Vitalii Tereshchuk we know where PT1.2 / pin 22 is located.
Only one trace emerges from the epoxy blob and it goes to a via - that could also be PT1.3 on pin 21. Indeed, the via connects to the HOLD/BACKLIGHT button.
A sacrificial device to grind down or an x-ray would be needed to determine if the other pin has been bonded at all.
Even then, accessing it would probably be very difficult unless you are equipped with precision machines or (dangerous) decapping equipment/materials.



There are also many reviews / teardowns on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=an8001+rm101+zt101

Here's another EEPROM hack and hardware modification (Korean):

https://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=twophase&logNo=221088350484&redirect=Dlog&widgetTypeCall=true&directAccess=false
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fblog.naver.com%2FPostView.nhn%3FblogId%3Dtwophase%26logNo%3D221088350484%26redirect%3DDlog%26widgetTypeCall%3Dtrue%26directAccess%3Dfalse&edit-text=&act=url

The following is a breakdown of my hacking.
- display up to 9999 counts (originally 6000 counts)
- Measurement up to uA range (originally measured up to mA)
- Temperature measurement possible
- RS232 output (only plugged in, which requires additional circuitry and work to actually activate)
In reality, using RS232 function seems to be more difficult.

On the other hand, we recorded the CEH (1100 1110) value in the FAH address to take advantage of the RS232 function.
However, in order to activate this function, you have to hold down the "REL"
The problem is that there is no REL button on ZT101 or AN8001.
Therefore, if you want to use RS232, you have to make it as a REL button.
I will try it later if it is time.
But I do not know if it is actually possible.
I have never seen an example of the success of RS232 on AN8001 without the REL button.
The crucial thing is that the output of the RS232 does not seem to be coming out (intentionally).
It looks like it is buried where it is bonded in the photo above.

Conclusion: no serial data out for ZT101/ZT102 (Aneng AN8001/AN8002, Richmeters RM101/RM102 and other rebrands).


Here's a Japanese blog entry (and a copy of the original datasheet as PDF):
http://moomin63.blog107.fc2.com/blog-entry-863.html
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fmoomin63.blog107.fc2.com%2Fblog-entry-863.html&edit-text=&act=url

So if anyone has a broken / defective unit of any of these models: zt101 zt201 rm101 rm102 an8001 an8002 please sand down the epoxy blob so the world can see the first PCB layer in its full glory!

[none]

I couldn't find a photo with the LCD removed, so in case anyone else wants to trace vias ...

[yunLad]

Hi! I just now got this meter to replace my semi-broken chinesium generic and I wanted to document how it's possible to add the uA range without sacrificing one of the other ranges! (kinda, temperature only works with the newly added switch in mA position) utilizing just a spdt switch.

In the eeprom dumps you can see unused range options so after a bit of poking and playing with the eeprom content I indeed found a viable spot between two vias (one is for mA range selection, the other - random choice) to connect additional range toggle switch for mA position. (as it later turned out, not the best placement since it aliases ohms and temperature on the same new one  oh well)

On my board revision the 99 ohm resistor was missing so I've had to add one (carefully selecting 3x33 ohm) and wire in a spdt switch that would bridge this 99 ohm in one position and switch to the new ranges bridging the two vias in the other. (a mosfet would be a better option, I know, but it was getting late.)

All that was left was to populate blank spots in the eeprom with correct values for affected ranges, see the rm102.ino for details. (here I found my mistake with temp but chose to ignore it, maybe somebody will find a better position for the switch)

Here's my dump for anyone interested:

Code: [Select]

 
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 48 D5 03
AC 26 0F 27 D4 03 6E 50 64 4B 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF
F3 99 00 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 5B 7E 63 72
4E 02 09 80 02 0A 46 FB 09 15 FF 09 8D 03 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
9B 7E 00 83 01 00 FA 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
4A 81 00 80 C6 84 E0 7C 18 01 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 0C 10 09 00 00 10 13 00 0E 00 07 00 12 03 01
00 0D 11 07 00 00 11 15 00 0F 00 09 00 00 04 02
00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 0B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 00 00
0D 00 02 10 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 20
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A C7 CC 0F 78 A2 00 00

I threw in additional capacitors to filter the vcc rail - 100uF worth of mlcc and an electrolytic (much faster readings), min/max and range buttons from video above and hacked it to 9999 counts (how was that even possible?)
(It would be a good idea to calibrate the new range but don't know yet how to go about doing that and I don't have a current nor voltage reference)

Hope this helps someone!