A look at the Uni-T UT210E

[Neutrion]

So did you measure it?

[Evgeniy]

So did you measure it?

Still not, I don't know what number of the pin...

[Neutrion]

Try between 48-40-39. Do you see dead short or open circuit?(But as I said, you have to follow through the path on YOUR meter, because there could be differences.)
 Of course there could be plenty of other ways to harm it. But it seems that the amps range is working properly as you mentioned. Is it so?
And again, you have to follow trhough every device at least from the input terminals to the micro. There could be small transistors as well, and one of the legs of your ptc looks also strange.

[Evgeniy]

Try between 48-40-39. Do you see dead short or open circuit?

between 48-39 is 4,64MOhm, 40 is free on pcb....between 48-40 is 4.79MOhm.

But it seems that the amps range is working properly as you mentioned. Is it so?

NO. A - and ~ don't working too, some times writes "ErrE" or "----"..

There could be small transistors as well, and one of the legs of your ptc looks also strange.

Yes, but I tryed to replase it on resistors of 15kOhm - NO results.
Also when measured -+ it matches the nominal value of 15kOhm, looks like working...

[Neutrion]

Amps range is working sometimes, but sometimes not? That's strange. You could also check the traces of the switch. Maybe you have some other devices there as well. And maybe trying the calibration method with the buttons, which also does some self test.
The resistance you measured could be OK, at least it is not completely fried.

[Evgeniy]

Amps range is working sometimes, but sometimes not?

Doesn't work at all.

You could also check the traces of the switch.

Looks like is good.

And maybe trying the calibration method with the buttons, which also does some self test.

Calibration method with the buttons don't work. I tried it.. Nothing happens at all when the buttons are pressed...

[Neutrion]

Most probably fried than. Interesting that it seems you didn't even find any damaged components. With a fully charged? big capacitor I would have expected some burn marks. Or was the PTC leg damaged in the accident?

[Evgeniy]

Interesting that it seems you didn't even find any damaged components.

Yes, very strange...

With a fully charged? big capacitor I would have expected some burn marks.

I thought too.

Or was the PTC leg damaged in the accident?

I think it happened during the installation process on the board...And as I told I tried to replace it on resistors of 15 Ohm - NO results.

[sofakng]

Hey guys, long thread so I apologize that I didn't read all of it.

How is this amp meter for hobbyist use?  I'm looking for a clamp to measure AC and DC (mostly DC for now).

I've invested in a Fluke 87V (used) a while ago and I'm tempted to buy a used Fluke i410 clamp, but even used it's double the price of the UT210 and it requires the multimeter to be attached.

Any thoughts or advice?

[Grandchuck]

I guess it depends on your intentions.  On dc current, how sensitive, top range and accuracty needed.  Same on ac current plus what frequency range needed.

[elman]

Hello, on my clamp meter UT210E I wanted to change the starting mode from AC to DC but when I read the DM24C02 EEPROM memory in all positions it is 00. What does this mean, have you encountered this situation before? It is normal? I do not understand!

[Shonky]

That would suggest to me that you haven't read it correctly.

[Gyro]

If you look earlier in the thread, you will find that there are specific conditions for reading the eeprom - DMM chip powered but held in reset irrc, but I can't remember the exact details.

[elman]

I took out the memory chip and read it correctly. Thanks for the tips.
I also have a measurement error, I tested on the 2A DC and 20A DC scale, the error is the same: with the ammeter it indicates 1.17A and with the clamp meter it indicates 1.146 on the 2A scale and on the 20A scale it shows 1.14A. Should I increase the value of the amplifier or range calibration adjustment ratio to 2A and 20A (6A and 60A)?.
Thank you.

[Brian of Romsey]

As SHONKY says, if it is all zeros then you aren't looking at the actual contents.  So either the read didn't succeed or you aren't looking at it.  You can test this by setting the buffer to 0xDEADBEEF over and over, then read the device again.  If you see a load of zeros then I would suggest that what you are looking at is NOT the relevant part of the device/buffer.  And obviously if you still see the DEADBEEF then the read is not happening in the way you think it is.

[Shonky]

I took out the memory chip and read it correctly.

Well I'd still say no you didn't. Why would there be a memory device that is 100% zeroes? Either that or the chip is faulty but you've not mentioned any faults.

[mwb1100]

I took out the memory chip and read it correctly.

Well I'd still say no you didn't. Why would there be a memory device that is 100% zeroes? Either that or the chip is faulty but you've not mentioned any faults.

I interpreted "read it correctly" as after removing the memory chip from the meter elman got a non-zeros reading.

[Shonky]

I took out the memory chip and read it correctly.

Well I'd still say no you didn't. Why would there be a memory device that is 100% zeroes? Either that or the chip is faulty but you've not mentioned any faults.

I interpreted "read it correctly" as after removing the memory chip from the meter elman got a non-zeros reading.

Ah yes you may be right.

[elman]

I'm sorry for creating confusion.
I removed the chip from the mother board and read it correctly (not 00 everywhere) , and I swapped the AC and DC functions.
I saw in a video and later tested that the memory chip cannot be read correctly if the rotary switch is in the OFF position, it must be in the 2A, 20A position... Now I can read the chip right on the board.
Now I want to correct the reading error on the ampere scale and on the 100A scale to increase the read value to 1000A.
Thank you for your interest.

[1001]

New opamp in my UT210E, GS8334.

[Mortymore]

New opamp in my UT210E, GS8334.

This is, or will be a trend, replacing known ICs with chinese ones. At least this Op-Amp has a datasheet in english.
I recently repaired a device were the microcontroller reference was sanded and the other main parts were chinese, and for those I could find a datasheet, they were all in chinese. 

[RoGeorge]

Use Google Translate, it can translate text inside the .pdf files, too, except text inside bitmaps.  Not perfect, but it might be just enough to make sense of the datasheet.

[marce002]

Hi ,  i ve accidentally damaged the eprom chip, so found another around (24c0aN) and found a BIN file in the web in order to revive the unit. Of course it is working again with the new chip but the DC mode is offset around 4 A !!!... tried (maybe my mistake) to correct touching the pots ... now i have a messy unit (for this DC mode only) ... Question is , is there a VERY simple procedure to try to calibrate with an aceptable error (i can live with 200mah error!! for this unit)

[RoGeorge]

Yes, there is a software (self)calibration procedure.  So try to put the pots where they were, then run a software calibration (whenever you decide to mess with coils, trimmers and such, always mark the initial position before changing anything, I hope you did that  ). 

You press something while turning it on, though I don't remember which buttons (first and last? - not sure), I've wrote the buttons on the paper user manual, and don't have the meter on hand right now , sorry.  The procedure was written somewhere here, in these 35 pages thread at least a few times.  There are 2 procedures, one that takes a couple of minutes and you have to keep 2 buttons? pressed while turning it on, and another that is just a zeroing (normal power then single press with the dedicated button while on DC amps).

[marce002]

yes i did it of course (yello and blue while turning on) but does not end , shows "Err0" after some seconds displaying those weird numbers...the pots are back at at same place but i think still differs from the BIN file i have downloaded... so wanted to match them somehow...

I have also found this procedure below very interesting!, can anyone tell me if this guy used a known value resistor connected to do the calibration process:


 Calibration must be done with caution. I am not responsible for any problems. Remember, remember, remember to put
       the turntable in the OFF position, press the blue (SELECT) key and the yellow (HOLD) key at the same time, and quickly rotate the turntable. Turn on the clamp meter to the Ω position until the CAL character is displayed on the screen. Release the blue and yellow keys. At this time, it has entered the calibration mode
       1. After that, the machine will automatically check the internal circuit of the IC. The LCD will display the ADC code value. If there is an error, it will prompt Err0. ~4. At this time, turn off the machine and check whether the voltage dividing resistor for measurement is connected to see if there is a short circuit or open circuit, and whether the resistance value is correct. After the check is complete and there are no errors, restart the machine to start the calibration process. After the self-test is completed, the relevant parameters will be automatically saved to E2, the buzzer BEEP will sound once to indicate completion. If it has already been tested, press the SELECT key to skip this check.
       2. Then automatically check the relevant parameters of the internal amplifier. After the self-test is completed, the relevant parameters will be automatically saved to E2, the buzzer BEEP beeps to indicate completion. If it has already been tested, press the SELECT key to skip this check.
After pressing the select key twice to skip the above two self-test steps, the turntable must be rotated to other gears before the calibration is official. Start (this is very important)
      3. Turn the turntable to the gear that needs to be calibrated, and perform calibration (it is recommended to calibrate the DC mV gear first)...
During the calibration process, the function of pressing the blue (SELECT) key is " "Skip this step", short press the yellow (HOLD) key to subtract (-) the calibration value, long press the yellow (HOLD) key to add (+) the calibration value; if you want to exit the calibration mode, turn the dial to the OFF position."