A look at the Uni-T UT210E

[AudioNoob]

Except I didn't rush, I have spent at no less than two hours today on this total, and at least as many yesterday researching the topic. It's just blind eye to a thing you consider obviously correct.

I have modded the sketch to dump EEPROM as code, in addition to raw hex. Looks like this in the terminal window:

Code: [Select]

writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x00, 0xFF);
...
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD7, 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD8, 0x41);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD9, 0x00);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDA, 0x03);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDB, 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDC, 0x0D);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDD, 0x00);
...You can copy and paste it into MODeeprom() to restore the original data. Seems convenient to me. I'll share the final sketch after I'm done in case someone else follows my footprints.

[Kbird]

Yes I have been there myself ..... , try rewiring a Thrustmaster TQS with 37 buttons and Axis's , you go cross-eyed


Nice addition to the sketch ...that would be a great and a welcome addition I am sure, I am no programmer   so that was beyond my skills... would of been handy before I modded mine to save the Original eeprom File.

[AudioNoob]

Soooo, I've done the mods!
The only question remaining: what do the dotless modes do, besides not displaying the dot?

Here's my modding sketch for now, complete with printing the original values as code. But unless dotless modes actually turn out to be useful, I'd rather do enable AC mA mode instead.

[Kbird]

there is some talk on pages 18 and 19 about dotless mode, I think it has to do with the error received IF you zero the Meter before a reading ,( you should)  it only reads 1.999 in that case instead of 5.999 or 9.999 with the newer model , so dotless gives 5999 or 9999 mV.

I am no expert on this stuff though , so hopefully  some-one else will clear it up for you if needed.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1374406/#msg1374406


And thanks for the Modded .ino , will give it a try next time I have mine open....

KB

[jayjr1105]

Hey all, getting ready to perform the mods on my 210E as soon as the replacement comes in.  I made the mistake of soldering to the SMD cap for pin 55 and it ripped off the solder pad.  I will probe it next time with some wire for the eeprom read/write.

I have a few arduino's and am comfortable with the physical hookup of the meter.  I'm not super comfortable with flashing the modified settings, per se.  I am not a coder by any means.  Do I understand things correctly...

Connect physical parts, run arduino file, have serial console open and copy/save the original eeprom dump because of unique calibration data.  Modify what you want, flash new eeprom settings, profit?


I'd simply like 8000 counts (9999 isn't recommended because of TRMS bug correct?) and a 1 min backlight.  The rest of the things aren't as important to me.

[jayjr1105]

Okay guys, I managed to get my EEPROM dumped...

Code: [Select]

FF FF FF FF FF 0 80 E8 3 E8 3 FA 0 0 BE 3
70 17 98 8 BE 0 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 0 96 0 0 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 2 9 39 1 9 D3 2 B 58 14 A DE 2 A 0
0 1 0 1 0 7 98 0 64 0 64 0 64 0 0 0
DE 78 B4 73 0 80 0 80 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
E3 7F 48 7E 1 0 FE 2A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
97 80 0 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 6 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 19 1E 1B 4 7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 18 0 1A 5 9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B
D 0 2 30 D 0 3 20 20 0 3 20 20 0 3 10
41 0 3 8 41 0 3 5 41 0 3 5 D 0 2 30
0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 3D 2 D4 3 51 5
44 2 E4 3 6C 5 0 80 5A C7 EF F F 80 0 0

I'd like the usual mods (8000counts, longer backlight, DC v first, etc.) but not sure how & what to modify from the dump and how to write it back.

[Kbird]

Okay guys, I managed to get my EEPROM dumped...

Code: [Select]

FF FF FF FF FF 0 80 E8 3 E8 3 FA 0 0 BE 3
70 17 98 8 BE 0 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 0 96 0 0 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 2 9 39 1 9 D3 2 B 58 14 A DE 2 A 0
0 1 0 1 0 7 98 0 64 0 64 0 64 0 0 0
DE 78 B4 73 0 80 0 80 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
E3 7F 48 7E 1 0 FE 2A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
97 80 0 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 6 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 19 1E 1B 4 7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 18 0 1A 5 9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B
D 0 2 30 D 0 3 20 20 0 3 20 20 0 3 10
41 0 3 8 41 0 3 5 41 0 3 5 D 0 2 30
0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 3D 2 D4 3 51 5
44 2 E4 3 6C 5 0 80 5A C7 EF F F 80 0 0

I'd like the usual mods (8000counts, longer backlight, DC v first, etc.) but not sure how & what to modify from the dump and how to write it back.

I'd double check that is a full dump , it maybe how AudioNoobs .ino prints? did you use his .ino Sketch? , as the dump should be 16x16 double digit characters....it almost looks like mine did when I had trouble with the Pin55 >wire>CAP not connected well or connected to GND instead.


Mine :

..Before EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
3B 98 8A 81 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 D6 01 09 94 00 0B 43 16 0A EC FF 09 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
A0 74 EB 6F 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
C2 7F 48 7E 01 00 A5 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
FA 80 00 80 54 81 E0 7C 05 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 51 02 F1 03 6C 05
50 02 FC 03 8B 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00

 
some other PICs attached too I saved from the Thread....

don't forget you need to copy YOUR location 50/51 to 56/57 to , should be mentioned in the .ino file.

Unfortunately I am no real expert on this , the count 6000/8000 depends on the Chip you have , mine is only good for 6000 for example.

KB.

[jayjr1105]

Okay guys, I managed to get my EEPROM dumped...

Code: [Select]

FF FF FF FF FF 0 80 E8 3 E8 3 FA 0 0 BE 3
70 17 98 8 BE 0 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 0 96 0 0 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 2 9 39 1 9 D3 2 B 58 14 A DE 2 A 0
0 1 0 1 0 7 98 0 64 0 64 0 64 0 0 0
DE 78 B4 73 0 80 0 80 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
E3 7F 48 7E 1 0 FE 2A 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
97 80 0 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 6 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 19 1E 1B 4 7
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 18 0 1A 5 9
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 B
D 0 2 30 D 0 3 20 20 0 3 20 20 0 3 10
41 0 3 8 41 0 3 5 41 0 3 5 D 0 2 30
0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 0 80 3D 2 D4 3 51 5
44 2 E4 3 6C 5 0 80 5A C7 EF F F 80 0 0

I'd like the usual mods (8000counts, longer backlight, DC v first, etc.) but not sure how & what to modify from the dump and how to write it back.

I'd double check that is a full dump , it maybe how AudioNoobs .ino prints? did you use his .ino Sketch? , as the dump should be 16x16 double digit characters....it almost looks like mine did when I had trouble with the Pin55 >wire>CAP not connected well or connected to GND instead.


Mine :

..Before EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
3B 98 8A 81 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 D6 01 09 94 00 0B 43 16 0A EC FF 09 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
A0 74 EB 6F 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
C2 7F 48 7E 01 00 A5 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
FA 80 00 80 54 81 E0 7C 05 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 51 02 F1 03 6C 05
50 02 FC 03 8B 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00

 
some other PICs attached too I saved from the Thread....

don't forget you need to copy YOUR location 50/51 to 56/57 to , should be mentioned in the .ino file.

Unfortunately I am no real expert on this , the count 6000/8000 depends on the Chip you have , mine is only good for 6000 for example.

KB.

I may have poor connections into my arduino.  I used solid wire from cat5 and it's only 24 gauge, possibly not thick enough to make good connections into the arduino headers.  I also simply held a probe wire on the reset/pin55 contact on the board.  It looks like I'm just missing zeroes before some numbers, odd.  I do have the newer DM1106EN chip, does that matter?  All these guides seem geared towards the DTM0660.

Here's the exact code I used and the serial output from IDE:  https://prnt.sc/j0r0hn

[Kbird]

Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.

I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.

The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e

[jayjr1105]

Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.

I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.

The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e

Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere.  I used this code to successfully flash the mods...

Code: [Select]

#include <Wire.h>
const int I2C_ADDR = 0x50;

void MODeeprom() {

  Serial.print("\n...Flashing EEPROM...\n");
 
  //Dotless mode calibration data, copied from 0x50, 0x51
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x56, (byte) 0xA0);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x57, (byte) 0x74);

  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xFB, (byte) 0x1E); //Power off after 30min
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xFC, (byte) 0xB4); //Backlight time 3min

  //Count 6200
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x12, (byte) 0x38);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x13, (byte) 0x18);

  //Alarms disabled
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x16, (byte) 0xFF);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x17, (byte) 0xFF);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x18, (byte) 0xFF);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x19, (byte) 0xFF);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x1C, (byte) 0xFF);

  //With selector in 2A order:
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x87, (byte) 0x1C);  //Dotless DCA
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x97, (byte) 0x1D);  //Dotless ACA
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xA7, (byte) 0x16);  //Dot DCA
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xB7, (byte) 0x17);  //Dot ACA

  //With selector in 20A order:
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x8B, (byte) 0x18);  //Dot DCA
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9B, (byte) 0x19);  //Dot ACA

  //With selector in NCV Display in mV
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9C, (byte) 0x02);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xAC, (byte) 0x1D);

  //With selector in 100A order is: (DC)A - (AC)A
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x8D, (byte) 0x1A);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9D, (byte) 0x1B);
 
  //With selector in V range order is: V(DC) - V(AC) - V(DC mV) - V(AC mV)
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x8E, (byte) 0x03);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x9E, (byte) 0x04); 
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xAE, (byte) 0x05);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xBE, (byte) 0x06);
}

void printHex(int num, int precision) {
  char tmp[16];
  char format[128];

  sprintf(format, "%%.%dX", precision);

  sprintf(tmp, format, num);
  Serial.print(tmp);
}

void setup() {

  Serial.begin(9600);
  Wire.begin();
  Serial.print("\n...Before EEPROM Dump...\n");
  dumpEEPROM();
  delay(10);
 
  MODeeprom();
 
  delay(10);
  Serial.print("\n...After EEPROM Dump...\n");
  dumpEEPROM();
}
void loop() {}

void dumpEEPROM()
{
  for (int i = 0; i < 256; i++) {
    byte b = readByte(I2C_ADDR, i);
    //Serial.print(b, HEX); Serial.print(" ");
    printHex(b, 2); Serial.print(" ");
    if ((i + 1) % 16 == 0) Serial.println();
  }
  Serial.println();
}

void writeByte(int i2cAddr, unsigned int addr, byte data) {
  Wire.beginTransmission(i2cAddr);
  Wire.write(addr);
  Wire.write(data);
  Wire.endTransmission();
  delay(5);
}

byte readByte(int i2cAddr, unsigned int addr) {
  byte data = 0x00;
  Wire.beginTransmission(i2cAddr);
  Wire.write(addr);
  Wire.endTransmission();
  Wire.requestFrom(i2cAddr, 1);
  while (!Wire.available()) ;
  data = Wire.read();
  return data;
}
I didn't bother modifying the 6200 counts even though my chip can supposedly do 9999.  I didn't realize someone had an arduino file out there that dumped then with a quick uncomment of a line of code,  did the rest for you.  Thanks Kbird

[Kbird]

Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.

I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.

The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e

Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere.  I used this code to successfully flash the mods...

Hi Jay , that is  My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode  ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to  the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969

I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.

Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location  in My Meter.

KB.

[jayjr1105]

Try some different .ino from the thread before you attempt an actually flash , as you need the original dump for backup, but it maybe just the new .ino from AudioNoob that prints it out differently to the Serial monitor since he played with the Code.

I just used Dupont wires for all the connections -female to female since I added pins to the 210e PCB holes. Used a Female to Male for the Pin55/Cap IIRC.

The newer 1106 Chip has a higher possible Range ...I don't have it , as I got mine over a year ago now , so have not followed all those developments , I would definitely read the thread throughly ...and make notes , copy and paste to Wordpad for eg. , as I assume you don't want to buy a 3rd 210e

Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere.  I used this code to successfully flash the mods...

Hi Jay , that is  My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode  ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to  the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969

I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.

Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location  in My Meter.

KB.

Yes, I realized what I did wrong late last night.  I totally flashed it with your calibration data.  I tested just about everything and the only thing that wasn't very accurate was (go figure) dotless mode.  I will do a little more research on going beyond 6200 counts with the 1106 chip and when I'm ready for that, I'll fix my calibration data.  Can I see your before and after eeprom?

[Kbird]

Thanks for the tip to search elsewhere.  I used this code to successfully flash the mods...

Hi Jay , that is  My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode  ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to  the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969

I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.

Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location  in My Meter.

KB.
[/quote]

Yes, I realized what I did wrong late last night.  I totally flashed it with your calibration data.  I tested just about everything and the only thing that wasn't very accurate was (go figure) dotless mode.  I will do a little more research on going beyond 6200 counts with the 1106 chip and when I'm ready for that, I'll fix my calibration data.  Can I see your before and after eeprom?

That's whats in the PDF Note attached to my last Post , before , after, and the changes ....for my Meter.... since I may have or want different backlight and auto off times too etc , but if you are fine with that then the Calibration Data is the only one you need to change.

There are also two or three threads on Modding the Uni-T 139C which has the older Chip too but lots of good info as well, the thread by FrozenFrogz was helpful for me for that Mod.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035

KB

[jayjr1105]

Hi Jay , that is  My .ino file , I can tell by the calibration Data for Dotless Mode  ( the 1st Mod ) , it's the only one you NEED TO CHANGE....if you just used my .ino then you have MY calibration DATA not yours , this info is Unique to each meter and Must be copied from your Original Dump to  the .ino that FlyWheelz posted on Page 8 ... if you check his .ino you will see his calibration bytes are 83 and 75 , mine are A0 and 74.... hopefully you did that?

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1034969/#msg1034969

I think the 1106 can handle 8200 Range Count or more , you'd need to re-read the thread cos I'd hate to put you wrong.

Not sure if the attached PDF is already on the Thread ?, it is My Notes from figuring out the Dotless Calibration Data Location  in My Meter.

KB.

That's whats in the PDF Note attached to my last Post , before , after, and the changes ....for my Meter.... since I may have or want different backlight and auto off times too etc , but if you are fine with that then the Calibration Data is the only one you need to change.

There are also two or three threads on Modding the Uni-T 139C which has the older Chip too but lots of good info as well, the thread by FrozenFrogz was helpful for me for that Mod.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035

KB

A final thank you.  All done...

Code: [Select]

...Before EEPROM Dump...
...Before EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 E8 03 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
70 17 98 08 BE 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF FF 0A FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 39 01 09 D3 02 0B 58 14 0A DE 02 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
DE 78 B4 73 00 80 00 80 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 48 7E 01 00 FE 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
97 80 00 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 19 1E 1B 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 18 00 1A 05 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 3D 02 D4 03 51 05
44 02 E4 03 6C 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00

...Flashing EEPROM...

...After EEPROM Dump...
FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 10 27 E8 03 FA 00 00 BE 03
10 27 0F 27 D4 03 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 40 FF
FB 99 A3 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 39 01 09 D3 02 0B 58 14 0A DE 02 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
DE 78 B4 73 00 80 DE 78 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00
E3 7F 48 7E 01 00 FE 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
97 80 00 80 49 85 E0 7C 18 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1C 00 00 00 18 1E 1A 03 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1D 00 00 00 19 02 1B 04 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 00 00 00 00 1D 00 05 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 00 00 00 00 00 00 06 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 3D 02 D4 03 51 05
44 02 E4 03 6C 05 00 80 5A C7 EF 1E B4 80 00 00

And my .ino file with basically most if not all mods for the DM1106EN chip ONLY!...

[Kbird]

Hi , great !....  glad I could help a bit with your Mod , my guess is you now know more than I do
especially about the 1106 Chip.....

[AudioNoob]

I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.

So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.

Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?

[jayjr1105]

Hi , great !....  glad I could help a bit with your Mod , my guess is you know know more than I do
especially about the 1106 Chip.....

Found a little bug with STJ's 10,000 counts setup on page 17...

make 10,000 count <<< only DM1106 chip, will fuck AC readings on DTM0660 chip
10 = 10 (normally 70) default count:6000??? 2000>10000
11 = 27 (normally 17)
12 = d8 (normally 98) upper switch point 2200>10200
13 = 27 (normally 08)
14 = d4 (normally be) lower switch point 190>980
15 = 03 (normally 00)

Whenever I use my 10v precision voltage source, it goes OL.  9.999 is fine but as soon as it hits 10.00 it goes OL and doesn't range up.  I'm thinking it has something to do with this

Code: [Select]

12 = d8 (normally 98) upper switch point 2200>10200
13 = 27 (normally 08)

[AudioNoob]

yes, you need to set the upper limit to 9999. I've set my lower limit to 980.

[maginnovision]

I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.

So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.

Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?

Buy a proper low amp current clamp. Generally a 10/20A clamp is good enough to measure sleep currents. I've never used a meter like these for that job. I have an amprobe that was just as accurate as the $8k clamp we used at work, however the amprobe is just a clamp and didn't log anything.

[rch]

I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.

So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.

Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?

The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on.  This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle.   I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.

[jayjr1105]

yes, you need to set the upper limit to 9999. I've set my lower limit to 980.

Thanks, that did it.  I've updated my .ino file with final modifications.  I see roughly 10 people downloaded the previous one with the 10200 upper limit.  Hopefully they caught it and don't flash it.

[maginnovision]

I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.

So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.

Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?

The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on.  This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle.   I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.

Typically you can't do that for automotive stuff. By pulling power every module goes through a hard reset and if there is some issue where a module eventually stops going to sleep it'll then look like there is no issue. You really need to get a clamp that can read mA accurately without disturbing the vehicle.

[rch]

I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.

So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.

Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?

The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on.  This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle.   I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.

Typically you can't do that for automotive stuff. By pulling power every module goes through a hard reset and if there is some issue where a module eventually stops going to sleep it'll then look like there is no issue. You really need to get a clamp that can read mA accurately without disturbing the vehicle.

How much precision is needed for automotive use?   At low currents it must be difficult to exclude the effect of the Earth's magnetic field.
Edit:  do much smaller jaws help at low current?

[maginnovision]

I've had a bit of confusion while measuring small DC currents with the clamp today. My car is sucking more current from the battery than it should in standby, and I was probing a couple different wires connected to the battery to find the culprit. My method, which seemed to had worked just fine before, is to touch the wire with the tip of the closed clamp, zero the meter a couple times until the display stays at zero for at least a couple seconds, and then open the clamp, move it onto the wire and close the clamp.

So it worked fine, until one wire showed something around 15 mA. Except I know it's not passing any current because just 10 cm down the same wire there's a fuse that I pulled out. Bottom line: I had to repeat the measurement a couple times holding UT210 at various angles until it finally displayed zero.

Now, I know the clamp is not that accurate with extremely low currents like 0-100 mA, but it's been astonishingly accurate for me thus far (for a clamp) and I haven't had such a problem before.
Am I doing the measurements wrong? What can I do to avoid such issues and get readings as reliable as possible?

The most accurate way is to turn the current in the device being tested off and zero the clamp with the wire inside it, and make the measurement without allowing the clamp to change position or orientation at all but by turning the device on.  This is probably not appropriate for your use, as disconnecting the battery would upset the baseline measurement conditions even if it didn't cause more major problems for the vehicle.   I suppose the spurious 15mA is a not unreasonable sort of error from moving the clamp around very slightly after zeroing.

Typically you can't do that for automotive stuff. By pulling power every module goes through a hard reset and if there is some issue where a module eventually stops going to sleep it'll then look like there is no issue. You really need to get a clamp that can read mA accurately without disturbing the vehicle.

How much precision is needed for automotive use?   At low currents it must be difficult to exclude the effect of the Earth's magnetic field.
Edit:  do much smaller jaws help at low current?

Depending on the vehicle/spec you need accurate mA readings. Small jaws could probably help but mostly because they're easier to use in small spaces. Stray magnetic fields are taken care of by zeroing near the battery before attaching clamp.

[jayjr1105]

Okay Folks, I compiled a final version of the arduino code.  It's compatible with BOTH 0660 and 1106 chips!  As the code is, it will only work for the newer 1106 chip, you MUST uncomment and comment out certain lines for it to work with the older 0660 based models(notes in the code itself on how to do this).  Also remember to replace the calibration data from YOUR dump.  Otherwise you will have my calibration data.

You can copy/paste directly into IDE from here https://ghostbin.com/paste/6akt4

..or you can download the attached file. 

This file does just about every mod to the meter.  Simply comment/delete out what you don't want to use.

It would be good if someone could give it a once over for accuracy.