A look at the Uni-T UT210E

[JayPeeAge]

I read this nice thread because I bought a Uni-T UT210E. Some of you had access to read/write the eeprom with the minipro TL866A programmer. How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?

First I used this clamp. No data received. Then I tried to connect the 5 wires from the EEPROM in the programmer. I put WP also on ground, no difference.
Is ICSP/ISP for microcontroller only?

[Kbird]

I read this nice thread because I bought a Uni-T UT210E. Some of you had access to read/write the eeprom with the minipro TL866A programmer. How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?

First I used this clamp. No data received. Then I tried to connect the 5 wires from the EEPROM in the programmer. I put WP also on ground, no difference.
Is ICSP/ISP for microcontroller only?

If you have an Arduino Uno or Leonardo, which I guess you must , you can use Flywheelz Wiring scheme (page 8 I think) direct to the Arduino , he posted this pic for those Connections, which I used along with his sketch. The Chip on the 210E required an extra ground to disable write protection, compared to my Uni-T 139C.

*** edit... added pics of my wiring notes

 

[maex]

How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?

Switch the UT-210E on.  OFF position does not work.

[Kbird]

How did you do this? A have also the programmer. I think with desolder the eeprom and put in in a sop8 socket adapter and then in the programmer would be working. But I would read/write the eeprom in-circiut. Could someone help me?

Switch the UT-210E on.  OFF position does not work.

Very good point Maex ..... it can be in any position except off to program

KB

[agaelema]

Finally I decided to modify my UT210E.

Following the guide posted by flywheels at page 8 (thanks for the Arduino sketch) everything worked fine.

I have not tested the dotless mode in 2A, but appears to be ok. I noted 4 modes in V~. The first two without the mV range, and the other two with the mV range (winning one place in this range  ).

But I noted some strange behaviours.
- It seems that the offset increases in the measurements.
- If I connect a 2k2 resistor and then change to resistance mode, the measurement looks fine and compatible with the modifications. But if I disconnect the same resistor and then reconnect, the displayed value loses one digit besides the relative error in the measurement.

What is the problem?

Someone tried to calibrate the UT210E based in another good dmm, via eeprom changes or other way?

Thanks!

[bitseeker]

The difference in resistance resolution looks like an auto-ranging behavior. It may be starting from a different range when switching to resistance mode with the resistor already connected vs. when reconnecting while already in resistance mode. It's similar to the way auto-ranging can end up in a different range if arriving at a value from a higher range vs. a lower range.

[agaelema]

Yep, the problem was the wrong lower limit range (190x), changing to 580x works very well.

Tomorrow I will do some tests and compare the values with the HP3478A.

[Kbird]

Yep, the problem was the wrong lower limit range (190x), changing to 580x works very well.

Tomorrow I will do some tests and compare the values with the HP3478A.

Hi Agaelema, I was wondering if that was the issue , I was reading about it in this thread and others, and wonder if you used Flywheelz Sketch , as I did , which would mean I have the same issue but just haven't seen it yet.  What did you change exactly? I'd like to check mine , thanks.

Now I wonder if all the up / down ranges are correct?

KB

[agaelema]

... What did you change exactly? I'd like to check mine , thanks.

kbird, I changed the values in registers 0x14 and 015, related to the lower limit range.
The  original value (BEh) force to lower the range when the reading is bellow 190x (190mV, 1.900V, 1900Ohm, etc). Changing to 580x (244h) will correct it (580mV, 5.800, 5800Ohm, etc).

Changing in the Arduino Sketch

Code: [Select]

  //Count 6200 - Lower limit
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x14, (byte) 0x44);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x15, (byte) 0x02);


Now I wonder if all the up / down ranges are correct?

Yes, now it's working very well

[Kbird]

... What did you change exactly? I'd like to check mine , thanks.

kbird, I changed the values in registers 0x14 and 015, related to the lower limit range.
The  original value (BEh) force to lower the range when the reading is bellow 190x (190mV, 1.900V, 1900Ohm, etc). Changing to 580x (244h) will correct it (580mV, 5.800, 5800Ohm, etc).

Changing in the Arduino Sketch

Code: [Select]

  //Count 6200 - Lower limit
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x14, (byte) 0x44);
  writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x15, (byte) 0x02);


Now I wonder if all the up / down ranges are correct?

Yes, now it's working very well

Thanks AG for posting back with that info       , I will update my Sketch and add this to it.

KB

[agaelema]

Base in the informations of this thread I started to write a sheet with UT210E registers. Some of them are described in the IC datasheet, but other no.

Following Indman's tip of how to zero the ranges I noted some registers manipulate by this mode. Registers 20h (Amplifier parameter??), 33h, 36h, 37h, 3Ch, 3Dh and 66h are altered, but I did not discover their functions.

Registers from 58h to 5FH are related to Zero compensation to the Amp ranges. The values are in two's complement.
- Originally the 2A dotless range was showing 74, after de compensation the register value is FFB6h, or "-74" in 2's.
- Te value in display will be the read value plus the zero compensation in 2's, and the value of compensation is ralated to the counts in display.

If someone discover new registers, please share here.

[TALANTO]

First of all, thanks to everyone for all the information and inspiration shared so far! 

Following information is about modifying features of you meter. Take backup of eeprom's content if you are going to modify it's content. You are doing possible modifications at your own risk!

There has been some talk about reordering the modes, for example to make DCA come before ACA. Unless I've missed a post or few, there hasn't been English information about what those bytes actually mean and how to possibly make other similar changes.
Knowing what bytes need to be swapped to swap places of DC and AC modes is nice, but wouldn't it be great to have information how to reorder the modes the way YOU want (within some limitations)?

For quick reference, check out first attachment  image to see where modes of each selector switch are being set and second attachment to see what the bytes on those locations mean. Second attachment also mentions some jumpers... You can switch places of modes only if they have same set of jumpers mentioned.

The longer explanation:
Chinese datasheet of DTM0660L (Here's a link to that datasheet in PDF format. Link was shared by user Puomjw on the thread of Russian forum that has been discussed earlier.) explains the EEPROM content at 0x80 - 0xBF, which is where order of the modes is set. Least significant nibble of address on that area represents the selector switch position and most significant nibble represents the mode selectable by Select-button.
For example bytes in locations 0x8F, 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF set all four modes of one specific selector switch position. 0x8F contains default mode, pressing the Select-button cycles between that and the modes set in 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF. See the first attached image for clarification.

UT210E's eeprom has 0x07, 0x09, 0x0A and 0x0B in those four locations that were mentioned as an example. The datasheet has a chart (Section 11.3 in the datasheet I linked in this post, also in second attachment of this post) which tells what modes each of the bytes represents.
Comparing those bytes from eeprom to the chart on datasheet: 0x07 = Resistance, 0x09 = Continuity, 0x0A = Diode and 0x0B = Capacitance. Looking at the UT210E, there surely is a selector switch position which has resistance, continuity, diode and capacitance modes. So, now we know which four byte section sets modes of that selector switch position. Doing similar comparisons to rest of the four byte sections on that 0x80-0xBF area of UT210E's eeprom results this:

Locations	Selector switch position
0x87, 0x97, 0xA7 and 0xB7	2A
0x8B, 0x9B, 0xAB and 0xBB	20A
0x8C, 0x9C, 0xAC and 0xBC	NCV
0x8D, 0x9D, 0xAD and 0xBD	100A
0x8E, 0x9E, 0xAE and 0xBE	Volts
0x8F, 0x9F, 0xAF and 0xBF	Resistance/Continuity/Diode/Capacitance

Rest of the four byte sections include only 0x00 and aren't used (not selectable with selector switch).

Limitations
There are some things that limit the possible modifications you can do to order of the modes: In second attachment there is column with jumper names: J1A, J5 etc. Selector switch also shorts or opens these jumpers, modifying the way input signal travels inside the meter.
You can only replace a mode with another one, if that new mode has exact same set of jumpers mentioned, as the old one. For an example: Looking at second attachment, you can move continuity before resistance, but you cannot replace NCV with continuity.

There aren't too many things one can do, but I hope this helps!

Hello, I've watched your video about adding uA range and I want to thank you. I really wanted that mod to my multimeter. Now I want to share my idea to improve your mod. Basically you will add uA range but keep the Amp range and select all the ranges with the function key.

First we can keep the original 0x11 and 0x10 and add the 0x0C and 0x0D:


Edit: My original plan failed so the only way to make it work is to put a big 10A switch:

... or additional banana terminal.

[3db]

UT210E mod ?
I'm confused.

[TALANTO]

A am sorry its about RM101/ZT101/AN8001 that video: youtube.com/watch?v=xx_CbRkbI04

Another option is to combine mA and uA in the eeprom and put the switch in the other banana terminal.

[Kbird]

A am sorry its about RM101/ZT101/AN8001 that video: youtube.com/watch?v=xx_CbRkbI04

Another option is to combine mA and uA in the eeprom and put the switch in the other banana terminal.

There is a AN8001 thread too here :

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/aneng-an8001-6000-count-true-rms-multimeter/msg1167572/#msg1167572

[MosherIV]

 
GRRRRRHHHHHHH. Who said aaa batteries are better than 9V, I just grabbed my ut610e to check my car battery charging and nothing, it would not power on. Took battery cover off and what do I find?
Battery leaked. 

Had to clean it up (vinger, water and isopril alcohol) and wait for it to dry out.
Thankfully, it is still working.

Have not had that from 9V batteries (yet). Much prefer 9V batteries in dmms.

[bitseeker]

I don't know who may have purported such a thing. Alkaline batteries leak, regardless of brand, shape, size, or how grandiose the "technology" and accompanying warranty. It doesn't happen often, but I've had a 9V push out the bottom of its enclosure over five millimeters when it failed. Fortunately, it wasn't installed in anything valuable at the time.

Anecdotally, alkalines seem to leak more now than ever before, which has been discussed quite heavily in a different thread. I almost exclusively use rechargeable NiMH 9V, AA, and AAA batteries nowadays in devices that require those sizes and they've been leak free thus far even the ones that have gone into reverse polarization due to over discharge (unintentionally, of course). YMMV.

Unfortuantely, some products have less than ideal power supply designs that do not tolerate the lower voltage of rechargeable cells and will stop operating before the batteries are depleted.

[crazyguy]

GRRRRRHHHHHHH. Who said aaa batteries are better than 9V, I just grabbed my ut610e to check my car battery charging and nothing, it would not power on. Took battery cover off and what do I find?
Battery leaked. 

Had to clean it up (vinger, water and isopril alcohol) and wait for it to dry out.
Thankfully, it is still working.

Have not had that from 9V batteries (yet). Much prefer 9V batteries in dmms.

Eneloop batteries are the best solution

[mstoer]

I am trying to re-program my UT210E as per flywheelz post, bbut am having trouble dumping the eeprom.   I connected everything, but as soon as I plug in the Arduino,  it beeps, the display flashes ErrE, then goes blank.  The serial monitor just shows "...Before EEPROM Dump...".  I tried holding the reset to ground (at the cap shown in the photo), but nothing happens.

Am I missing something in the sequence?

My UT210E uses the DM1106 chip.

Marcell

--------------

Nevermind. Found my problem.  One bad lead and not reading the instructions carefully enough.  It's modded and working nicely.

[bianchifan]

received mine last Saturday...DM1106EN

[mauroh]

I spotted the following thread were a potential deal was going on ebay for a UT210E at US $17.27
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/deal-alert!-ut210e-us-$17-27-on-ebay!/

Due to my GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) I had to buy one and soon after I discovered this thread and the possibility to hack this meter...

If I got it correctly the early UT210E uses the same uC of the AN8002 , the DTM0660.
But the latest units are using the same uC of the AN8008 (also got due to GAS...), the DM1106EN.

Now I wonder which one I'll get...

Is the hack the same?
If the uC in the PCB is not blob incapsulated like in the AN8008 is it possible to add the uart / serial output on this unit?

Mauro

[mauroh]

From the AN8008 thread... (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/an8008-us-$19-10000count-1uv-0-01ua-0-01ohm-resolution-meter/)

my ut210e is now 10,000 count too!! 

I think I found part of the answer to my questions...
I'll keep reading this thread, waiting for the meater to arrive.
Mauro

[bitseeker]

Hi Mauro,

I haven't seen inside the latest UT210E. So, I'm not sure if its µC is blob encapsulated. Enjoy hacking your new meter.

Oh, and you may want to reconsider how far you crank up the max count. In particular, for AC, you want to leave enough headroom to get accurate RMS measurements. 6000 - 8000 counts is probably safe. Of course, you could crank it up higher on DC and be more conservative on AC.

[stj]

the ut210e uses the packaged chip - not a blob.
and the newer chip is designed to run at 10,000 so the 6000-8000 limit does not apply - thats for the older 0660 chip.

i made myself some notes! 
----------------------------------
make continuity>ohms instead of ohms>continuity
8f = 09 (normally 07)
9f = 07 (normally 09)


make Vdc>Vac instead of Vac>Vdc
8e = 05 (normally 04)
9e = 04 (normally 05)

make Vdc>Vac(with mv) instead of Vac>Vdc
8e = 05 (normally 04)
9e = 06 (normally 05)

make Vac support mv (dont use with above patch)
8e = 06 (normally 04)


add NCV field level range
9c = 02 (normally 00)
ac = 1d (normally 00) < wtf?

make 2A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
87 = 16 (normally 17)
97 = 17 (normally 16)

make 20A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
8b = 18 (normally 19)
9b = 19 (normally 18)

make 100A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
8d = 1a (normally 1b)
9d = 1b (normally 1a)

expand 100A range to 600A
07 = 70 (normally e8)
08 = 17 (normally 03)

expand 100A range to 1000A - only DM1106 chip
07 = 10 (normally e8)
08 = 27 (normally 03)

2A Dotless mode
*Copy bytes from 50h and 51h (locations of 2A calibration data) to locations 56h and 57h (2000A/ dotless 2A calibration data).
a7 = 1c (normally 00) - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
b7 = 1d (normally 00) - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4

kill backlight timeout
fc = 00 (normally 0f)

make auto-poweroff 1hour
fb = 3c (nomally 0f)

make low battery warning 15seconds
fd = 8f (normally 80)


Alarms
For each of those, limit = value * 10V, ff to disable warning.
16 = 3d(61) - "OL" limit for DCV. (10V units)
17 = 3d(61) - "OL" limit for ACV. (10V units)
18 = 3c(60) - Alarm/beep limit for DCV. (10V units)
19 = 3c(60) - Alarm/beep limit for ACV. (10V units)
1b = ff(dis) - mA range warning current. (100mA units)
1c = 0a(10) - A range warning current. (1A units)

make 6000 count
10 = 70 (normally 70) default count:6000??? 2000>8000
11 = 17 (normally 17)
12 = 38 (normally 98) upper switch point 2200>6200
13 = 18 (normally 08)
14 = 44 (normally be) lower switch point 190>580
15 = 02 (normally 00)

make 10,000 count <<< only DM1106 chip, will fuck AC readings on DTM0660 chip
10 = 10 (normally 70) default count:6000??? 2000>10000
11 = 27 (normally 17)
12 = d8 (normally 98) upper switch point 2200>10200
13 = 27 (normally 08)
14 = d4 (normally be) lower switch point 190>980
15 = 03 (normally 00)
--------------------------------------------------------

[bitseeker]

Thanks for the clarifications and notes, stj!