$20 LCR ESR Transistor checker project

[tedris]

Which one would be the one in the link I posted? I'm asking because I want it to be smd atmega

[Feliciano]

First, I cannot tell whether your screen is damaged or not, you may try to flash the alternate firmware to the STC and then try the m-firmware, or you could replace the STC with the other circuit as I told you before.

Besides that, the thing with the TTesters these days is the ATmega are hard to find in China, so they're using hardware and firmware alternatives, with sub-par quality, and not compatible with the original project. So you could cross your fingers and look for old stock of TC-1 or T7, if you want something similar to what you had. Or you could look for a DIP-28 unit which is more likely to be original. Regarding the IR, if you flash the official firmware, you could create an external add-on circuit for IR detection.

And please try to write in English. For the majority of us, English is not our native tongue, and we all make the effort of using the official language for this forum.

[madires]

There is no remote control, I wish there was an IR

No problem at all! The m-firmware supports an IR receiver module connected to a dedicated MCU pin or temporarily connected to the probes. And it detects up to about 20 protocols.

[tedris]

There is only 1 atmega processor left. I do the missile settings or crystal settings randomly and I think it breaks the atmega. I have the usbasp encoder but win10 sees it as ch340 and not usbasp. So I had to use it with Atmel studio. I adapted the settings myself and it is loaded at first but when I try to use the fuse settings many times because there is no image, the chip cannot be reached. Can you tell me the fuse settings and crystal settings, try it one last time. It has a 16000 crystal but atmel studio does not allow me to make any settings other than 8mhz. There are crystal settings in two places, when I select high on the first screen, it warns me to select 1/4, I tried 400mhz for 16000 etc. but there is no screen and I tried other things. I got ridiculous as I tried. If you can tell me exactly, I will try it, there is more than one code with the LCD model you recommended in the clone file. Like an equation with many unknowns? I am literally reinventing the device.

[Teoman]

Hello,

I am a beginner in electronics and I am researching the devices I need in my workshop. While trying to decide on one of the component testers mentioned in this title, I wanted to do some research and came across this OLED Screen Component Tester project whose link I shared. I would like to know what you think about this design. Thanks in advance.

Fareed Clarity
https://fareedish-blogspot-com.translate.goog/2023/10/membuat-oled-transistortester-v2.html?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=fr&_x_tr_pto=wapp

PCB
https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/OLEDTransistorTesterRight_44370643.html

[indman]

Teoman, This is a compact version of the tester, but powering the microcontroller directly from USB is not the most correct option, which has its drawbacks. I don’t advise you to repeat it, unless as practice for entry-level self-assembly! 

[Teoman]

indman Thanks for your reply. I ordered a LCR-T10H from Banggood but I'm trying to research the best option for my level/needs.

LCR-T10H
https://fr.banggood.com/LCR-T10H-Transistor-Tester-Multimeter-TFT-Display-Auto-Measurement-3_7V-Lithium-Battery-25pF-100mF-0_01-50M-80x60x20mm-p-2017268.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6327738

ArduTester PCB
I saw that Electronoobs' work for Ardutester Pcb.

https://electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_tut191.php

But I can't decide to buy a Chinese clone (I've bought already ). Can you advise me which one would be a better choice for me? DEER EE D5000, Hantek 1833C, UT622E, etc?

[indman]

Yuriy_K on the previous page showed a link to a version of the tester with a controller in a DIP-28 package. This is the option you should buy. You should not consider other options - there is a high probability of buying a disposable toy instead of a device. 

[Feliciano]

I have the usbasp encoder but win10 sees it as ch340 and not usbasp. So I had to use it with Atmel studio. I adapted the settings myself and it is loaded at first but when I try to use the fuse settings many times because there is no image, the chip cannot be reached. Can you tell me the fuse settings and crystal settings, try it one last time.

I have used the USBasp (set for 5V) under Win 7 and 10. No problems with Win10 after I installed the unsigned libusb drivers with the help of Zadig.

For compiling under Windows, we use WinAVR Programmer's Notepad, overwriting a wrong .dll, and integrating the 8.3.0 toolchain. And later I burn the binaries with AVRDUDESS.

Fuses for 8MHz or 16MHz full-swing Crystal:

Code: [Select]

# HFUSE = -U hfuse:w:0xd9:m
# EFUSE = -U efuse:w:0xfc:m
# LFUSE = -U lfuse:w:0xf7:m

All the details has been disclosed several times on this thread, so I'm not going to repeat it. You can search here the keywords for more information, and/or you can read the FAQ I wrote.

[tedris]

Although the ch341a programmer driver etc. is working properly, the programs do not see it. I am using win 10. When I open the program, it says it is not connected. The device manager says it is connected.

[tedris]

Thank you for the summary information. Okay, I did it. There is a problem and it keeps restarting like in the video. https://drive.google.com/file/d/189lygC9GednGO5T6VDAodPhylREtQRpi/view?usp=drivesdk

[Feliciano]

You didn't state whether you replaced the STC MCU with the two-transistor circuit, or you flashed that IC with the firmware that bypass its functionality, and whether the battery is connected or not, so I can't tell whether you have a power supply issue (brownout?), and/or a possible error on the replacement circuit, and/or other hardware/firmware failure.

I don't like the 18V battery reading, and some apparently dead pixels on the center of the screen, but in any case, to discard the firmware side you could try the russian firmware kindly shared by indman time ago.

[tedris]

Hello, I set the battery event and it almost measures the voltage. I pull up the settings +- and fix it to the full value, I turn the screen etc. no problem, I downloaded the u4.h file for STC from the given site and flashed it anyway, after that I saw an image on the screen. But it stays in this loop until the battery drops to the low level in the setting. Then it writes by and closes. Actually it does its job. But it seems to reset at the very measurement stage, I wish there was a debug so I could watch it from there, at what stage does it lock. I thought, is there no element to measure, I put a resistor, it's back to the beginning. Physically, the u5 integrated circuit on the card is heating up, I will add a picture. I checked the probe pins, it's the same with my card. As a result, solving the heating problem seems to solve the resetting as well. Could the u4.h file I uploaded for STC not be suitable for STC15L104W?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18KBy8o6FPWjAloOuH0AoV-GisgGZXy4-/view?usp=drivesdk

[madires]

To check if it's a battery monitoring issue you could disable the monitoring (BAT_NONE). Some TC-1/7 need the special option  PASSIVE_POWER_CTRL to keep them powered on.

[tedris]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18KoOULsE6s9YF69poFQOV2JhER-o_WgJ/view?usp=drivesdk

same It didn't work, that's not why

[Feliciano]

1)Did you try the firmware on Yandex for the TC-1?
2)If you have an oscilloscope, check the 5V Vcc, you may be having brownouts

[tedris]

Finally I did it. My efforts were not in vain. I noticed that the 5v output was irregular because my card was short-circuited. Then I removed the parts in the picture and it was fixed. I uploaded a new video.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18PpfEETnhBZ1xDAu9cbK2aDMkD7lQler/view?usp=drivesdk

[Feliciano]

Good. Now you should add something around 100nF and 1nF for C14 and C15.

[tedris]

I'm confused which one should it be? It says 100 on SMDs but I don't know what the unit is. The other one is 100uf, you said nf. Which one is suitable?

[Feliciano]

Unless you see letters, you can assume it's the same kind of identification that of resistors, but with numbers instead of colors and starting with 1pF, therefore, 100 should be 10pF, and 104=100nF.

But hey, you can measure it with your CTester!

[Kim Christensen]

I'm confused which one should it be? It says 100 on SMDs but I don't know what the unit is. The other one is 100uf, you said nf. Which one is suitable?

Well, they're labeled right on the back where I circled:

[tedris]

Hello, I repaired it with smd capacitors. The measurement values ​​are the same as before. Can you explain to me what their function is? I don't understand the difference whether they are or not. All I know is that they provide a stable output of 5v. Since current will be drawn, a capacitor is needed to collect the voltage that has fallen, but it doesn't seem to have a function in this circuit.

[Feliciano]

Well, the idea of this long forum thread is to discuss about the CTesters. To learn about electronics, you should do your homework.
Anyways, the short answer is, a Capacitor if often used as a filter: as the load and/or input varies, the capacitors helps the regulator to keep an stable output voltage. Normally a series regulator uses a couple of Capacitors on the entry and another on the exit. For example you can read the datasheet of the classic LM317 for some explanations.

[carrascoso]

Hello everyone.
I am updating and modifying my GM328, with more functions and cosmetic changes.
And I would like to change the question mark in case of a failed test run to another position on the screen, for example above or below the message.
Could you tell me where I can make the change.

Regards

[madires]

In file main.c, function Show_Fail(), edit:

Code: [Select]

  Display_FancySemiPinout(3);           /* show symbol starting in line #3 */