***thread is irrelevant because there was a bound shaft that caused a gear to break and its in the trash now. all that shit super fused together.. flame, bearing pullers, etc did not work. I never seen stuff fused this bad, the gear snapped off at the base rather then coming off lol. i bet the inductor winding would break on first use, given how everything else in that system was behaving.
this thing, had a siezed gear under almost ever snap ring. And one of them even had a DIY pin installed because someone did not wanna bother with a set screw. The brass must have like welded itself to the steel or something. Really terrible. Maybe it would be OK if they used a brass shaft, but this combo is bindmageddon.
Every snap ring broke on disassembly too. i wonder WTF happened to this thing LOL.
Maybe if you machined full-contact bearing pullers for every gear, you could get 90% off. But it would be some crazy shit, the clearance under the bound gear 'extension' structure was maybe 0.5mm, and mounted to bakelite. I seriously think almost every gear here would need a custom puller to possibly disassemble this seized POS without cracking. Or you would have to drill holes for anchor pins on the gears so you can get enough leverage. and some of the gears were baklelite too, when i saw that an alarm went off in my head, the counterparts I have seen to these variometers had all metal/ceramic construction (soviet).
I highly recommend paying as little as possible for roller inductors, they are not serviceable. The soviet ones are better quality it seems like (rare). I guess they liked coils more.
I see some evidence of silver soldering on the gears, so I assume maybe, they induction or whatever soldered these things, and assembled certain structures while hot, then put a snap ring on it anyway... IDK why else this would be so hard to diassemble. But they used snap rings, and like piles of carefuly chosen shim washers to position everything, so that again makes me think its some kind of post assembly binding process. There is a mix of copper alloy, copper, brass, bakelite, steel. I wonder if its some kind of electrochemical reaction that bound this crap up.
I thought 2 hours to diassemble, clean/polish and reassemble the whole mechanism. After 4 hours I had one gear removed after tons of figuring about prying and shit
*******
I have a roller inductor that has a aluminum drum for shorting the coil as it unwraps.
It looks like plain aluminum. No Alodine or whatever. Its a bit nasty.
How should I go about cleaning it? Is chemical polishing OK, or does that leave extra oxidation on the end that inhibits electrical conductivity? Should it just be a mechanical polish?
I don't want to alodine it because its like a moving part, I have a feeling it will get messy since its a gel.
What surface finish do I go for to get optimum conductivity ?
I wanted to use aluminum polishing paste, because its very effective. But since it has some chemicals in it, I am wondering if maybe the conductivity would be sub par.
Maybe some kind of mild acid wash after full cleaning and then recleaning it with distilled water to strip any residual oxide post polishing?
or maybe clear alodine 1001 can be used