Youyue 858D+ some reverse engineering + custom firmware

[Gixy]

@GiantGnome:
Did you manage to find a probe able to measure more than 250°? It should be interesting to work together on the 230V version of this device in order to find the best combination of PID parameters.

[doctormord]

Hi guys,

i received a "Kaleep 8586" 2in1 station today (hotair + soldering iron), bought because the possibility to change the firmware.

To my suprise, the non-modified station acts pretty much like the alternative firmware in the mean that it is not showing the set temperature only, but the real air temperature after ~1 second. Also heating phases are indicated by the small dot on the right. Secondly, when putting back the handle into the holder, the controller keeps "blowing" until the temperature is < 100°C.

As i haven't read through the whole thread yet, is this as expected? From my knowledge, the "Youyues" are only showing the setpoint and some linear ramp + they don't do a cooldown.

Regards,

Christian

[bitseeker]

The Youyue's show the actual temp and do cool the heater when in the cradle. One of the major issues with the stock firmware is that when the actual temp approaches the set temp, the display locks onto the set temp so that it looks like it's ready when, in reality, it's overshooting. In essence, it's fake accuracy. The modded firmware has better temp control and doesn't hide the actual temp when near the set point.

[doctormord]

Hmm, mine does show the overshoot temperature as well, like set to 280 and air "4", it goes/overshoot up to ~305 and then cools down until temp is reached. 

[bitseeker]

Oh, that's good. Makes you wonder if it's using this mod or their own correction to that behavior. I don't remember all the differences between the stock and mod firmwares, but if you're curious, then it'd be good to compare yours to the modded one feature-for-feature.

[doctormord]

Yeah, maybe the skipped their own R&D and flashed the mod already at the fab. Will have a look into it again and post some pics.

Thanks.

[kmlee]

Hi to all

After the marvellous work started by Robert aka Madworm, I took the plunge and just ordered a youyue 858D+ but I report some not so good news:

The product was from banggood, but the PCB showed a MK1841D3 processor - 
I had half a mind to send it back - but based on what?

I would guess that the cheapest processor wins out - I'll post more later, but it would seem that these Taiwanese chips would win out...and maybe the days of the atmel chips are numbered 

But there is hope in the work of wguibas...to which I thank a heap as well!

[kmlee]

Hi to all

After some investigation, it seems the MK1841D3 besides being a clone of a Samsung (reply #171) is a custom ROM programmed version of the MK7A23 microcontroller from Mikkon Technology http://www.mikkon.com/ or just search for ??. The datasheet can be found here:

http://www.mikkon.com/datasheet/8bit/MK7A23P%20v07.pdf.

This company seems to be Taiwanese with manufacturing done in China.

Further searching in Chinese mentions that this chip has the same core (=code compatible?) with the Samsung s3F9454 - see https://detail.1688.com/offer/598345751.html.
It seems Zilog has bought over the Samsung microcontroller setup and there is a C compiler for the S3F9xx chip, which is actually based on the KS58 family.

With regards to my previous post, where I found a MK1841D3 instead of an Atmel chip in my Youyue 858D+ (sticker says - left factory - March 2016) it could signal a move to using the presumably lower cost Mikkon chip rather than the Atmel.

I say this because now, how can one be *sure* of ever getting an Atmel powered device? 

[kmlee]

Hi again

After posting, I looked a bit more and saw that Zilog, (now part of ixsys) do offer samples for their S3 family. They are in circuit flash programmable in the same way as the Atmels. It may be that the Mikkon parts are too! - but a s3F94C8 (s3F9458 are obsolete now) could fit in the socket. Hopefully there is a free C compiler for the part.

So this could be a possible direction for development?

Cheers!

[steve41993]

Hi,
finally i got all parts for my adapter PCB. But I'm getting in some trouble with flashing the Atmega328p. I got some in the MLF(32pins) package from aliexpress. They behave a bit strange:
First of all i need to apply a clock to it (without clock nothing happens on the MISO). I thought that they are using the internal oscillator by default. To solve this problem I'm using a xmega-A1 xplained borad and generate a clock with around 680kHz.
Now the chip seems to be alive but the device programming dialog in Atmel Studio shows always the wrong device signature: 0xFFFFFF
Can someone give me some hints how to solve this problem?

In the attachments are some measurements with a working ISP (also a atmega328p but in a DIP package) connection and one with the fault.

[madworm]

Try slowing down programming speed as far down as it can go.

If I remember correctly, ISP clock <= system clock.

[steve41993]

Hi,
I've tried every single speed (from ~2kHz up to 250kHz or so). But every time i got the same result... The timings look always exactly the same (wrong). The max ISP clock is 1/4 of the system clock.

[madworm]

Can you tell studio to ignore the device signature and get it to at least blink an LED?

I hope you did not spend too much on those "atmel" chips.

[steve41993]

Ok, got it to work now.
1. Install drivers for for avrdude and Winavr
2. Read fuses with the -F (disable device signature) command (with external clock)
3. Write new fuses with the -F command (with external clock)
4. Write program still with -F (without external clock)
5. LED is blinking now  (without external clock)

But i got still the wrong device signature. Hope I can fix this.

[stj]

the device sig can probably be erased and re-written.
i have done this by accident on pic chips.

it sounds like the chips you have are "recovered" and have been erased.
that's why the device id is "FF" and probably all the fusebits were set to 1 - causing your clock problems.

[JackM]

Does the Youyue 858D branded model exist at all in a 110VAC / 120VAC version? The only ones I am finding are all 220VAC input rated.

[Shock]

Does the Youyue 858D branded model exist at all in a 110VAC / 120VAC version? The only ones I am finding are all 220VAC input rated.

ebay.com

[JackM]

Does the Youyue 858D branded model exist at all in a 110VAC / 120VAC version? The only ones I am finding are all 220VAC input rated.

ebay.com

Where? Honestly. I've searched and every one of the Youyue brand ones I've seen are 220V. The ad may say 110V/220V, but pictures show only 220VAC input. I have not found one being sold that says it takes 110VAC and has the pictures to prove it.

[bitseeker]

I've seen lots of them. Here's the first one that came up for me. It has the brand, the correct cable, and 110VAC printed on the back. There shouldn't be a shortage of them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152069653907

[JackM]

Thanks bitseeker. I'd love to buy that exact one but unfortunately they do not ship to Canada... Seems that when I was searching for a listening it was only showing me ones that would ship to Canada, and because of that I didn't see any of the Youyue branded ones that were 110VAC.

[bitseeker]

Yes, that is an important factor that could significantly change what you see vs. what I do.

[kcbrown]

You should just get this one, it is cheaper and doesn't require an adapter board if they are still shipping the real one that I got. 


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I ordered that very unit from that very link.  And what I got is a "UYue 858D", not a "Youyue 858D".  Mine has the MK1841D3 microcontroller.

I'm slightly tempted to return it, but if even the "Youyue" versions now have the Samsung-based microcontroller (or a clone of that), then there probably wouldn't be any point.  And since there's an adapter board for this now, I doubt I'd be gaining much in the process anyway.

Between my experience and kmlee's, I don't even know if it's possible to get the original one with the Atmel microcontroller anymore.

[spinkidiver]

Hello friends .! Excuse me but my english isn't good. I want to buy a 2 in 1 station soldering. i'm between  two options.
a) Yihua 8786D (60 $). http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Rework-Station-Solder-Display/dp/B00XTK1JLC/ref%3Dsr_1_1&usg=ALkJrhj5y03iaLmqGGn1BjHwqSHx2VQrsA
b) Youyue 8586 (54 $). http://www.amazon.com/Rework-Soldering-Station-Solder-Nozzles/dp/B00P8Z4RQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462460214&sr=8-1&keywords=youyue+8586

Can you talk about these? quality? durability? Tips useful(hakko)? i prefer option A, because it have more certifications (for example: CE). But youyue is more cheap and i could buy best tips similiar to hakko or http://www.amazon.com/Marrywindix-Anti-static-Non-magnetic-Electronics-Jewelry-making/dp/B00DVIEJ14?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A17ZZD0COKS85P. I read  comments but i don't understand all. I wiil not change (mod) the station, only i want one station of quality for the price.

[bitseeker]

Hi spinkidiver,

Welcome to the forum.

The 8786D that you linked to has the correct title, but incorrect images and price (858D). Perhaps you meant this one http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Rework-Station-Solder-Display/dp/B00XTK1JLC/ref=sr_1_1

I have the 8586 and it works well. I prefer the separate temperature controls for hot air and soldering iron on the 8586. As for quality and durability, the only way to know is to buy one. The insides can change in time, so I wouldn't try to predict what you will get.

As far as certifications, I wouldn't look too seriously at any of them on these brands of devices.

[spinkidiver]

Hi spinkidiver,

Welcome to the forum.

The 8786D that you linked to has the correct title, but incorrect images and price (858D). Perhaps you meant this one http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Rework-Station-Solder-Display/dp/B00XTK1JLC/ref=sr_1_1

I have the 8586 and it works well. I prefer the separate temperature controls for hot air and soldering iron on the 8586. As for quality and durability, the only way to know is to buy one. The insides can change in time, so I wouldn't try to predict what you will get.

As far as certifications, I wouldn't look too seriously at any of them on these brands of devices.

Thanks..!
already I edited the link,  about the temperature controls is not very important because only will be back up(iron), i have a soldering iron. if I will not look too seriously the certifications i will choose 8586 for price. I live in latinoamerican. the wheather is hot (35 ºC   ). i read the yihua's triac can be burn. What is quality for youyue?