Youyue 858D+ some reverse engineering + custom firmware

[floobydust]

I agree the 7-segment LED display is limited.

There is a high-end controller but kept local to china. We capitalists only get the low cost products 
It can do a heat-profile run, also control a soldering iron and pumps. It has a dual OLED, ARM-core MCU.

[stj]

yes!

now THAT is the kind of thing i had in mind! 

[floobydust]

I think changing the 858D+ to OLED has been looked at.
Because the OLED has to be mounted on the backside, there's mains traces under/near it, not much flexibility to mount it and OLED's you buy already are on an PCB (unless we go FPC), so it's a bit of a sandwich. Present ATmega328 pin assignments have the SPI pins going to switches, would have to be moved.

It seems to evolve into making an entire new PCB for the hot air station. Christe4nM with Heart of Technology was working on it but LED display.

[knotlogic]

I agree the 7-segment LED display is limited.

There is a high-end controller but kept local to china. We capitalists only get the low cost products 
It can do a heat-profile run, also control a soldering iron and pumps. It has a dual OLED, ARM-core MCU.

I did a search for that, and it appears to come from Russia (or similar).    Nothing stopping anyone from ordering it, except maybe customs.

Looks like that particular model is for a dual handpiece station, hence the two knobs and screens.

[knotlogic]

I think changing the 858D+ to OLED has been looked at.
Because the OLED has to be mounted on the backside, there's mains traces under/near it, not much flexibility to mount it and OLED's you buy already are on an PCB (unless we go FPC), so it's a bit of a sandwich. Present ATmega328 pin assignments have the SPI pins going to switches, would have to be moved.

It seems to evolve into making an entire new PCB for the hot air station. Christe4nM with Heart of Technology was working on it but LED display.

Slightly OT, but I just bought one of those OLED modules.  Haven't tested it properly yet, but it appears to have a linear reg to supply the 2.8 V(!) Vcc for the logic, but no level translator for the actual I/O pins!  Hopefully they're properly 5 V tolerant, but I'd probably not use the PCB the modules come with.  The actual driver IC is mounted on the FPC.

[floobydust]

Most 128x64 OLED controllers are SSD1306 and 1.7-3.3V logic, so level-translation needed to interface to 5V AVR Arduino etc. Check your controller's datasheets.

[knotlogic]

I did.  The ones I've seen say 2.8 V for logic and 15 V for display power.  Sellers are less upfront about those details....

[stj]

buttons got mentioned on the spi bus.

i would re-route them to the free'd pins from the old display.
i was thinking on a rotary encoder to replace the pot anyway.

i'm an electronics engineer, not a metal worker - i want to be able to use the front panel as it is.
so any display needs to pretty-much fit the existing window, and replacing the pot with an encoder effectivly means i also have 3 buttons.
 

[bwack]

Here is how to calibrate the 858D with the new FW changes that I've appended to madworm/magsburgers FW. Thought I'd make a shorter video about calibration only.

[pmayer]

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum.

Thank you all for your hard work and contributions - wow!

I've bought the Uvistar 858D+ which PCB is labeled 858D06.PCB, 2016.09.29, so the SMD version with MK1840D3 MCU, as already stated here. As I've read you can use madworms firmware with this if you build the adaptor for the ATMega168/328.

@floobydust: Do you have schematics of the Rev.B board available to order at OSHpark or somewhere else? Is there already a BOM so I can source the parts? If not and you want to sell the board manufactured, count me in!

Cheers,
Patrik

[flodo]

i'm on the uvistar too (which comes with the v06 version of the pcb), i already ordered the adapter-board by giantgnome, they arived and i soldered and flashed everything now.

my problem is, i don't know if i have to cut some traces and if - which. also, the fan speed wire - where should i solder it to? the board looks different from the one which wguibas refers to (v04)

[Geoff_S]

Anyone have a source for the adapter boards to suit Samsung S3F94C4EZZ ic's ?  I PM'ed wguibas a while ago but haven't heard back from him, and he seems not to have been active on this forum for a few months.

[bwack]

Anyone have a source for the adapter boards to suit Samsung S3F94C4EZZ ic's ?  I PM'ed wguibas a while ago but haven't heard back from him, and he seems not to have been active on this forum for a few months.

Tried the attachment under this post: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/youyue-858d-some-reverse-engineering-custom-firmware/msg782035/#msg782035

[stj]

so i have recieved the cheapest unit yet!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181783334716

i will rip it open for photo's etc by the weekend.

what i can say from a quick look to make sure it was wired safely.
the mains cable is captive - saving the cost of an inlet. 
the pcb is different from any in this thread - the mcu is even mounted vertically.
the mcu is 20pin and looks unmarked!!! 

so i think the first step is to draw up a schematic of atleast where all the mcu pins go.
also, i'm thinking of using an arduino like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191773759569
with an adapter under it - it just makes sense because it's cheap and ready built.
also good for quick changes like adding logging, extra displays or inputs etc.


time for some of this:     and some of this: 
and hopefully none of this:    lol

[carpin]

cheapest unit yet! ?

This is the cheapest unit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Brand-NEW-Hot-858D-220V-air-gun-soldering-station-iron-tool-solder-welding-60W-ESD/32408394179.html

[Monkeh]

cheapest unit yet! ?

This is the cheapest unit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Brand-NEW-Hot-858D-220V-air-gun-soldering-station-iron-tool-solder-welding-60W-ESD/32408394179.html

... except that's more expensive.

Math is haaaard.

[stj]

 

[darkfox]

Try this. I've swapped the pins for up-button and reed-switch. PB4 <--> PB5.

Thanks for the firmware file. This weekend i replaced Atmega8L with Atmega168pa on my SR858d. Everything went smooth but i am having problems with calibration.

Set Temp: 150, ADC: 118, Real Temp: 111
Set Temp: 230, ADC: 198, Real Temp: 177
Set Temp: 310, ADC: 278, Real Temp: 237

I have temparature differencies like above. How can i calibrate it ?

Thanks

[nitroracer]

Just out of curiosity, what is the general consensus on still doing these mods? I recently purchased one of these units off amazon and when comparing to the video of the nice Australian man reviewing the unit, these more recent models seem fairly well-built. It's 110V, no exposed wiring issues inside the gun, e.g., the most recent board version, QR code on back to check authenticity, etc... I even checked the temperature calibration out of the box and it was spot on - didn't fluctuate more than 1-2 degrees!

With all that in mind, is it worth going down this path? Even if I wanted to hack the rework station, it seems like it's going to be a pain given that there really isn't a standard to go off of.

TL;DR - 2017 version seems pretty legit if you can confirm it's authentic, so why modify the gun when I may end up exploding it with tenuous firmware update? (Not to mention I don't even own a second heat gun, which it seems would be necessary for this project...) I'd just the same expend the energy coming up with the resources to get an upgraded reflow station and avoid all this to begin with!

[netdudeuk]

so i have recieved the cheapest unit yet!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181783334716

i will rip it open for photo's etc by the weekend.

what i can say from a quick look to make sure it was wired safely.
the mains cable is captive - saving the cost of an inlet. 
the pcb is different from any in this thread - the mcu is even mounted vertically.
the mcu is 20pin and looks unmarked!!! 

so i think the first step is to draw up a schematic of atleast where all the mcu pins go.
also, i'm thinking of using an arduino like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191773759569
with an adapter under it - it just makes sense because it's cheap and ready built.
also good for quick changes like adding logging, extra displays or inputs etc.


time for some of this:     and some of this: 
and hopefully none of this:    lol

Did you get a chance to have a proper look inside ?

[mjguisado]

Hi everyone,

in my first post let me thank you guys for share the result of all your work.

After read this forum I bought a Youyue 858D+ in Aliexpress.

I have checked the version of the motherboard; it is a 858D06.PCB 2016.09.29 with a MK1841D3 MCU.



I think that it is the same version that floobydust has.

As far as I know he was working in a new version of the adaptor board but I don't know if finally it is ready and works.

I would like to be able to continue his work but I'm to novice and I'm not able to do it. Hopefully I will be able to assemble one of your design.

Best regards.


 

[floobydust]

I didn't post the PCB/schematic mods I've done, other people were doing mods and blogging about it and too many chefs in the kitchen. It's hard to get a concensus with open hardware/software projects.

I'd improved the fan-speed detect circuit (tach) and did a PCB design.
Next was changing the (madworm's) firmware and DI timer hook on his ISR, instead of the analog A/D which that circuit presently uses.

Then I thought fan-speed doesn't help, as the factory firmware infers if the fan is working by looking at slope on temperature and changing nozzles upsets the PID control anyway.
Then I thought why not just use an Arduino as the controller, then everyone can do mods.
Then I thought why not redo the entire PCB so we can have a decent display.

But Christe4nM was working on that.
So I was waiting for him to finish his work but no update since.

[stj]

so i have recieved the cheapest unit yet!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181783334716

i will rip it open for photo's etc by the weekend.

what i can say from a quick look to make sure it was wired safely.
the mains cable is captive - saving the cost of an inlet. 
the pcb is different from any in this thread - the mcu is even mounted vertically.
the mcu is 20pin and looks unmarked!!! 

so i think the first step is to draw up a schematic of atleast where all the mcu pins go.
also, i'm thinking of using an arduino like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191773759569
with an adapter under it - it just makes sense because it's cheap and ready built.
also good for quick changes like adding logging, extra displays or inputs etc.


time for some of this:     and some of this: 
and hopefully none of this:    lol

Did you get a chance to have a proper look inside ?

not yet, real life got in the way.
i used it a fair bit though.
here's a warning - dont use very fine tips - the fan wont get enough heat out.
i used an old 2.5mm nozle on it and accidentally partially melted the plastic guard area on the end of the handpiece!! 

[Christe4nM]

(...)

But Christe4nM was working on that.
So I was waiting for him to finish his work but no update since.

Somehow I still can't get around to finish this project as again I struggle to find/make time to work on it. I decided to upload the draft schematic so at least people can have a look and use what they like. It's a draft so there are probably errors, oversights and there are design notes missing. So take it as it is. Find it here: https://github.com/heartoftechnology/858Dpp-Hot-Air-Rework-Station under CC BY SA NC license. I think I won't really be able to answer questions: if I'd had the time I'd spend it on the project itself - my apologies beforehand for that.

[mjguisado]

Hi all and thank you for your answers.

As I have said before I haven't got the needed knowledge in order to design the motherboard, so for me it is imposible to move forward starting from your unfinished works.
So I have to wait hoping for someone that can and want to finish it.

But I have a question for @floobydust.
I understood that you are no happy enough with your current design and want to improve some topics.

But I don't know it you current design could be built and used with the current version of the custom firmware.

If would be necessary to develop something it would not be a problem for me. To develop is something that I can do.

I say that because the temperature control of my unit it's terrible and I can not use it "out-of-the-box".

Best regards.