Holy post batman!
Technical post of the week from Rick
Indeed. And a great argument for the DSLR/Video Camera approach. A microscope is great if you want to look at cells, but not so great if you want to see both the top AND the bottom of a 0402 component.
Basically, you want tons of light, a small aperture, and a very sensitive photosensor. You're not going to get much better sensitivity than a consumer/prosumer DSLR (or the new Blackmagic pocket cinema camera), unless you spend a LOT of money.
It's one of the main reasons I use a Panasonic GH2 for my video stuff. Small sensor gives good DOF, good 4/3s and micro 4/3s lens selection, and GREAT sensitivity. Shot a video of our at ISOs of up to 12800
Thanks for the kind words. These kind words inspired me to go back and corrected a typo I noted but couldn't find it again when I went back to reedit last time...
Yeah, a good macro with extension is hard to beat. There are however a few more factors to consider for Video application.
1.
The video encoder. A bad video encoder will eat up any sharpness and contrast you have in your image. Some video encoder are really bad. On a few occasions, I use the camcorder as pure frame-capturer to capture uncompressed frames via firewire to laptop, then I use software video encoder to with the control and quality I need to do the actual encoding.
2. If you choose to get new equipment: When you go shopping, make sure you choose equipment with
REAL aperture control. REAL aperture control means actually changing the aperture such as using a shutter a make the aperture smaller. Many video camcorders, many cheaper camera, and almost all cell-phone/i-Something cameras
simulate a smaller aperture (larger f-stop) by making the exposure shorter. With those, you don't get the better benefit of Depth of Field or reduced edge effect. It is easier to shorten the timing of the capture digitally whereas reducing the aperture mechanically takes hardware and expense.
Set the camera (camcorder) to manual exposure and look at/into the lens while you change the f-stop, you should see something like your iris in your eye making the lens aperture bigger/and smaller to adjust to the light. If you don't see a shutter moving to change the aperture, you need to check the manual and other documents/spec-sheets to check if the camera/camcorder is using a faster exposure to simulate a smaller aperture (large f-stop number) setting.
Rick