CFW for KSGER/Quicko STM32 Soldering Stations

[Rixi]

You can find it here on AliExpress.
Has anyone of you ever opened this kind of handle or even inserted a shake sensor into it?

Are these Sugon handles?  Or a clone?
[...]
The interior of the handle likely looks something like this (attached).

I don't know the Sugon handles. A year ago I ordered a handle that looks the same (like the linked one) and had the same black connector. I then soldered my own connector to it, so I can use it with my HANDSKIT T12 station (very similar to KSGER, Quicko... stations) and it works great.

I already tried to open this handle, but I couldn't find out how. And was affraid of breaking it. That's why I asked if anyone already opened it. My goal is to upgrade it with a shake sensor.
Instead of the shake sensor I would also be happy with a proper stand to use the "stand mode". The only nice stand I found is this grey one from Aixun, but it's so expensive. Any recommendation for a cheaper, but nice stand?

I believe it requires breaking it, but it's only breaking the glue bond.  If I find a link to the video or pictures, I can post it.  And then once the wiring is finalized, it can be glued again.  But it's not something you want to be modifying constantly.  There is also a chance that the handle will be damaged, all of this stuff is experimental.  But others have successfully pulled it apart and put it back together.

If you go back a few pages, I had a lot of problems with finding stands.  For now, I'm using the cheaper Aixun T3A black one.  It will function ok.  There's room in the future for other options, but for now I'm just focused on verifying that everything functions ok electrically.

If you find a video or picture how to open the C245 handles, this would be great ! I searched for it some time ago but didn't find anything.

[Jono434]

I did see a video somewhere, but it's often late at night when tired and of the memories blur together. There are a lot of us in this situation and the information is hard to find.  I'm quite busy currently but I'll see if I can find it again in the next few days.

[DavidAlfa]

I finally made a board identification page, also identified the ones with poor LDO design (Overheating, board resetting).
Feel free to contribute if there're missing boards/info!

[Rixi]

If I‘m not wrong this board design is not covered.
It‘s from my HandsKit Station, bough April 2022 on AliExpress, but it’s not available any more.
Successfully flashed with KSGER_v2_OLED.bin

[DavidAlfa]

Added, thanks.
Seems like another one with bad regulator design (5V taken from 24V). Does the regulator cope with all the heat?
At least it has a large 78M05, should be hable to handle a lot more heat than those small SOT-89 regulators.

[Rixi]

Is this the regulator?


When I find the time I'll try to figure out how hot it gets.

[DavidAlfa]

Yes

[Jono434]

I will try to add some information and voltages from blue PCB version later today.  I couldn't find any seller on AliExpress, selling anything other than green or blue PCB for V2.1S.  Even other listings..  even if it's a good pic of a good controller board, it's likely fake because they say in communication that it will be a blue or a green PCB (random).  It's pretty hard to find to find the specific one you want.  It seems like it was easier a few years ago.  I bought a full KSGER station which came with the blue PCB.  And I have a separate blue PCB (hopefully) just in case I brick the firmware or some other accident happens.  I already shorted one of the LDO's when probing because the pins are too damn small.  Or I suck.   The board still works, and I was going to use a buck converter anyway, so it's not a big thing.  But shows how easy it is for things to go wrong.

If you find a video or picture how to open the C245 handles, this would be great ! I searched for it some time ago but didn't find anything.

I found the video.



It's not Sugon or Aixun, it's a T245 from a BST station but these are all JBC handle clones and I expect them all to be similar internally since they are variations that are cloning the same thing.  I attached a screencap of the glue I was talking about.  I don't know if this helps, the handles you linked could be completely different.. but it gives an idea of what to expect.  It's possible the plastic could crack, but in the video it didn't.

[Jono434]

Before probing the output of U2 was 8.04V, after probing it a few times.. it now outputs 2.32V and the display won't turn on.  Looking at the PCB, I'm not sure what I did because it doesn't seem possible to touch the outside pins together with a probe pin.  Maybe a cold solder joint or maybe U2 didn't like the physical stress of being touched while turned on?    I was going to cut the trace and bypass U2 anyway, so it's not a big problem.

When connecting 2XAA batteries to the middle pin of U2, or using 3.3V Mini 560PRO Buck converter, the display turns on and board functions normally.  I don't have a handle wired yet, but in terms of navigating menus, the board will works fine.  After 5-10 mins.. the average temp across the whole board is 32C, including U2 and U6 but that's while idling.  I'm sure it's much hotter under load.

I attached a pic of the blue PCB with some voltages, and a C245 PCB mod.  With this board configuration, is it easy to solder the JBC wire to pin 4, or is further modification necessary around the amplifier chip?

[DavidAlfa]

Where did those 8V came from?
About the JBC mod, did you isolate that pin on the connector? Otherwise it'll be GND.

[Hunghanh2009]

hello david, my board uses fw from version v1.10.8v to v1.11.1 and has the error as shown in the picture, but from version v1.10.6 and earlier it works perfectly fine. Don't know what the problem is?

[DavidAlfa]

Edit: Working here? I build a special v1.11.1 version that enforced 10KB RAM so my F103 behaves like the F101.

I tested:
v1.10.6 ->v1.11.1 : OK
v1.10.8 ->v1.11.1 : OK

As expected (Being different setting versions) it erased the settings, but had no issues of any kind.
Try writing the FW again, or a button factory reset (Though this would never be required).

[Hunghanh2009]

With the blue version I bought, from version v1.10.8 to v1.11.1 there was a Hard fault error, but for the black version I made it myself following your diagram, all versions worked. both run stm32f103cbt6, both versions have quite similar diagrams, only the voltage regulator circuit level 3v3 for the mcu is different.. maybe I will use the black version.😆. Thanks David

[DavidAlfa]

Doesn't make sense, same MCUs, same FW, there's nothing different.

[Rixi]

I'm searching for a "naked" T12 controler board capable of running the CFW and a C245 handle.
Any recommendations?

While browsing AliExpress I found this boards. They are not my choice, because they are based on STC MCUs and AFAIK it's not possible to run the CFW on it. BUT in the product description I found this diagram, showing the wiring of the different handles. Not sure if this has been posted here already, but I thought it could be useful for many people here:

[Jono434]

Where did those 8V came from?
About the JBC mod, did you isolate that pin on the connector? Otherwise it'll be GND.

I haven't been able to figure it out where the voltage into U6 is coming from.  It's 4V in and 8V out, I don't know how this is possible.  It's so hard to probe these boards, they are so small!  I can try probing around again and trying to understand the circuit more.  I was expecting to see 24V on one side, and 8V on the other with ground in the middle.  All I know for 100% sure is.. U6 outputs 8.04V into U2.  And U2 outputs 3.23V.  The 560 PRO mini buck converter outputs 3.28V.  I took a few extra readings for D2 and R14 and updated the pic, but it's possible that something has failed and that the voltages are wrong.  But when I took the initial readings, everything seemed to be working ok.

For JBC Mod, I haven't isolated any pins yet, currently I'm just trying to do the diagrams (to plan things out).  Isolating pin 4 should be easy because I probably won't use the right side of the PCB.. I will be using a panel mounted GX12 connector, probably at the rear.  With a 2.54mm JST XH connector soldered to the PCB and connecting to the GX12 connector.

Also.. I received the ST LINK in the mail and was able to successfully patch the firmware.  Instead of using buck converter, I now use ST LINK's 3.3V supply to power the board when playing around with the firmware or the menus.  It has worked 100% reliable doing this so far.  As long as the connectors don't fall off of the pins.

The only hard part about the firmware was that the ST LINK pin holes have 2mm spacing on this blue board, and the ST LINK cable connectors have wider spacing (they fit ok for the display pins).  I cut open a JST XH connector and took the pins out and soldered them to the PCB.  The way I made it work.. was that I only used the two inner pins and tried to jam the connectors in there tight.  And I used VDD 3.3V and Ground from the display pins.  Doing this.. the 2.0mm spacing wasn't an issue.  I've attached an updated pic of PCB with the pin outs for the ST LINK if anyone else wants to flash firmware on this board.  It is confirmed official STM32 chip.   

[Jono434]

I have to say.. this custom firmware is fantastic!  It was easy to flash, the batch file works well for making changes to it.. everything was fast and easy!  And even though I don't have any handles wired yet.. while it's idling.. the menus and everything is working very well.  The font looks good.  I've already made some changes to settings.c, so that it remembers my preferred settings so that I don't have to change them every time I flash.  And some small GUI changes customized for this specific display.  I'm using 250ms update delay and the display seems fine.

The firmware is great!  You've done a really great job David.. it's easy to understand why this thread has 150+ pages.  I also made a batch file, so if there is any firmware version upgrades, it can patch the tip profiles and settings preferences.  Power limit numbers, brightness settings, sleep mode settings etc.  The profiles and tip selection seem to work really well for switching between handles and tips.  This is only while idling with 0V on the 24V rail, but so far it's working well.  The UI looks good and the menus are easy to use.

[DavidAlfa]

That board is not in the list, can you reupload that image, but clean?
Enjoy the FW! 

I haven't been able to figure it out where the voltage into U6 is coming from.

It's R14. 6R8? Drops some of the voltage so the LDO work is a bit easier.
Be very careful when probing these!
Specially around U2, a small mistake and you'll send 8V to the stm32 instead 3.3, boom!

[DavidAlfa]

For long time I hated the profile switching method, requiring several steps (MENU / SYSTEM / PROFILE).
So I added quick profile selection to the main screen.
- Perform clockwise drag-rotation to enter tip selection mode.
- Repeat drag-rotation (Any direction) to enter profile selection mode (T12, C210, C245).

New release: v.1.11.2.

[Jono434]

A few new parts arrived via mail and it has helped a lot.  I received a microscope camera from AliExpress, from here..  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005446066467.html with 1-130X Lens.

So I was able to take a new pic of the PCB for better detail.  The camera is only 1080p via USB connection, but it works in MPC-BE (my preferred Windows video player) and via keyboard shortcuts it can be rotated, zoomed, panned etc.  I've never used one of these before but I am very happy because I think the picture is good for the price.  Assuming you have good lighting (I use a combo of cheap AliExpress lamps).  And you also need to focus the lens for the sweet spot.  I am hoping that it makes the small components easier to work on.  I don't recommend getting it now, but during the sales.  The kind of sales where it's $6 off for every $30 spent.  You can split the order into 2 orders for example (for stand and lighting) and save $60 or more in total if you buy from the right stores.  It arrived in 14 days.

Also, a spare Blue PCB board arrived and the 8V mystery is solved.  The new board has 23.5V for the input pin of U6, so in the first board one of the components must have been faulty.  The first board never tested at the right voltages even at the beginning.  And after some probing, the voltages became even stranger.  Other voltages on that board test differently as well.. for example.. it has 1.4V for JCB Mod/T12+ pin during idle.  The new board has only a few hundred mV when idling.  I'm not sure which one is correct, but I assume it is the new board.  It's possible I did damage when probing, I am not 100% sure.  I only probed the 2 regulators and the JBC pin.  But everything else is working ok I think.

I have attached a new PCB pic, hopefully everything is correct now.  There is a blank PCB version, and a Mod Info version.. hopefully these can help others.  I was using a tshirt to update firmware instead of a silicone mat, apologies for any lint or fluff on the PCB.

I cut the trace for the output pin of U6 and the PCB quality doesn't feel cheap, it feels pretty good.  It wasn't easy to cut the trace, it took a bit of work.  I have read on other forums that this Blue PCB board gets very hot even with 8V into U2.  So the 560 Pro buck converter seems like a good option.  I will experiment with 5V or 3.3V and see which works better.  And make sure not to blow up STM32, that would not be good.

[Jono434]

Here is a blank PCB version..

I look forward to trying the new profile selection..

[elektryk]

Thank you very much you for you firmware, I've used it in my custom controller and it works great. I've added temperature saving to the flash with method similiar to the eeprom emulation.

Code: [Select]

static uint16_t readTempInit();
static uint16_t readTemp();
static void writeTemp(uint16_t tempRam);https://github.com/elektryk2/stm32_soldering_iron_controller/blob/master/Core/Src/settings.c

There's some mess with commits in my fork because I've started with code from the beginning of the year and then incorporated my changes to more recent code...

And something about supply, initially I've had L7805CV with heatsink and then 3.3V LDO, now 7805 is replaced with DD4012SA 5V DC/DC converter and its pretty cool.

[DavidAlfa]

Here is a blank PCB version..

PNG is nice for drawings because it compresses the data a lot without quality loss, but for pictures they get huge, please use jpg for such large pictures.

I've added temperature saving to the flash with method similiar to the eeprom emulation.

It's not that I forgot temperature saving, it was there but I removed it to reduce flash wear, only has around 10K erase/write cycles!
Otherwise each temperature change would erase and save new settings.
You can easily change temperature 10 times a day, plus swap some tips, change other settings... Easily reaching this limit in 2 years or less.
So, I just set the default temp value to the usual 350-370ºC.

Yeah an external FRAM could be installed etc... I keep saying this firmware targets original controllers, requiring minimum modifications.
NOT the 0.001% custom-made stuff, those will also have to perform custom firmware changes, don't ask me to do so .

Most, if not all boards, have a battery connector for the RTC.
Connect the battery, enable #define HAS_BATTERY in board.h, now it'll save the temp to the RTC SRAM.
Simple as that!

Edit: For some reason this was mentioned nowhere.
Edited the README, adding it.

[elektryk]

I've seen that option with battery but my mod fills whole page with 2 byte temperature and issues erase only after all cells are not blank.
So if I'm not wrong it should extend declared flash lifecycle by 512x.

[DavidAlfa]

I didn't check the code yet but maybe it was the approach I thought on several times, using an entire sector for temperature variables, initially filled with "FF", writing "0" to used positions, and storing the temperature to the next position, the code seeks through them and uses the first one available.
When the entire sector is used,  the settings are erased and starts over.

I simply hadn't time nor motivation for it.
Some controllers generate a hard fault if the sector is not erased prior writing, had lots of testing pending.

Edit: Yeah I see your mod does this.
I'll have a look, needs a bit more polishing, adding new section to the linker scripts to avoid code overwriting that area, but proves it to be working .