Soldering station, simple and resistant

[tooki]

On the durability of irons, I recommend you go wood fired.

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=21013

These would normally be used with a propane torch, not a wood fire.

Modern versions are typically mounted directly to the torch itself, for continuous heating.

These last even if they are not very practical to use, but if they sell them someone uses them, I have an old soldering iron and it has a copper tip, after 20 years it still works, obviously it has no temperature regulation.

Well, they don’t sell them anymore: that page clearly lists the product as “discontinued by the manufacturer”, so I guess nobody was buying them anymore.

But newer types of big irons like that are still widely used, just not for electronics. They’re for sheet metal work, like making copper roofs.

[tooki]

Thank you for the advice, I actually didn't want to buy used products, I wouldn't have any guarantee, I don't know how long they worked, how they were treated, in fact it's a risk to buy even on Aliexpress, in fact the ideal would be to buy on Amazon.

I think you should really reconsider your stance against used equipment.

The Chinese stuff is an unknown, even if it’s durable: one brand that’s become kinda popular is terribly designed and can result in significant voltages at the tip, able to damage circuits. You don’t run into that kind of fundamental problem with the big brands.

It’s extremely rare for big brand soldering stations to fail, even after decades of use. They are well designed and built with good parts, so they just go on. The parts that wear out are the tips, which are consumables. (With desoldering stations, there’s a lot more to go wrong because of the mechanical components. But the big brands are quite good about spare parts, so you can often fix them inexpensively.)

I’d much rather have a piece of professional equipment than a piece of junk.

Some years ago, I bought a used Pace desoldering station, because the cheap Chinese ones aren’t as good. It took some patience for one to come up for sale, but I got a model that you could still buy new for about €1100, but I got mine for €115 shipped. Another €5 in parts and it is good as new. (It turns out the unit was almost 15 years old when I got it, but it was in great shape and just needed a new rubber seal, since that seal is in contact with the heater and eventually degrades.)

JBC irons are great, and I’d much sooner spend the money on a used JBC than a brand new clone.

Of course it is a thesis, maybe you did not understand what I mean by simple and resistant, simple I mean with little electronics.

Analog controller + Linear transformer = almost zero risk of failure.

I’ll point out that despite using a potentiometer to set the temperature, those do not use an analog controller. Like most soldering stations made since the 1990s, it uses microcontroller control. It just doesn’t have a display.

That wouldn’t stop me from buying a used one of those. At the first place I worked doing electronics, they had a ton of old JBCs similar to the one in the picture, and they work great. They’d upgraded them to the T245 handles at some point (they originally came with the older 2045 handle, for which tips are no longer made). I actually prefer those to the models with displays, because setting the temperature is easier with the knob.

I'm not ruling out any option but I wanted to have a new product in my hands, yes unfortunately the budget is limited, they recommended a Metcal MX 500 on eBay, looking at them they seem quite used, I don't know how many years of work they have behind them, then if unfortunately it breaks what do I do, there is no guarantee and I am not capable of repairing it.

The chances of a used big brand soldering station dying within 5 years is extremely low.

From what I understand however the metacal uses proprietary tips:

Every big brand of soldering station uses proprietary tips, in that no one ever designed an “industry standard” tip style. Every big brand designs its tips for its handles used in its stations.


The Chinese have cloned Hakko and JBC style tips, but since they are of often low quality, you don’t want to use those anyway. They’re still clones of proprietary designs. (Or derivatives, in the case of tips that look like Hakko or JBC, but are not compatible with them.)

[ferdieCX]

Hello
If you look for a simple soldering iron, I would recommend the Ersa 30. I bought mine in 1971 and it is still working.
The tip is quite big, so it is only for through hole components.
The Ersa Analog 60 is a true analog station and the tips for the Ersa stations are relatively inexpensive.

[marck120]

@Tooki

Thanks for all the explanations you have given me, very kind.

Actually I am not against used equipment, I have already purchased used products on eBay, it has nothing to do with soldering stations but several years ago I had purchased two Philips HD RECORDER DVDs, however they were in excellent condition, almost like new.

I really thought the JBC in the photo was analog, I was wrong, I attributed the meaning of "analog" to the fact that it did not have a display, thanks for the clarification.

The JBC in the photo looks like an old soldering station but it is of new design, it is compatible with C245 tips, I liked it a lot but it exceeds the budget otherwise I would have bought it, I have not checked if it is also available used, there is also the same model with the display but it costs more, however I found it here for sale:

https://eleshop.eu/jbc-bt-2bqa-soldering-station.html

At the moment on eBay I have only found this CD2BQE CD-2BQE T245, the price is very good:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/186694695927

Yes I am aware of all the grounding problems on Chinese clones, apparently some models have been updated, they have simply added a grounding cable, the soldering stations with linear transformer from what I understand do not suffer from this problem, they are very resistant, an Italian youtuber has an electronics shop and repairs televisions professionally, I have been following his videos for years and he always uses a ZD-931.

With my budget however you would not buy any new soldering station ?

[shabaz]

Really wise words there from @tooki and others.

With your revised 180 euro budget, I still would first strongly consider a used product.

I've got nothing against Chinese products, but for soldering irons for electronics design work, there are at least certain expectations that need to be very high; reliability, and earthed tip. Some of the clones will fail on the latter, and many on the former.

The clone handles are not the same incidentally (you mentioned it earlier), because the connectors are different, and internally, the contacts are not well formed. So that is almost guaranteed to fail, and in some cases might damage the station if the handle failure is catastrophic. Plus, there's a lot of plastic in some of the clones; the new clone soldering station will look ugly after some use, and will have almost zero resale value (in contrast, you could sell a broken genuine station and still find buyers willing to repair them).

If a used station doesn't meet it's description, eBay will refund you the money. If there is a fault, you'll likely notice it within a day or two. If there isn't an initial fault, then the chances are high that your used soldering station will provide you with good service for many years (more than five! and will be repairable even if the unexpected happens).

I looked at the eBay Italy website, it was hard for me to use it, but I couldn't see any decent used soldering stations, but your budget is now reasonable (180 euro), I think if you keep an eye out on ebay, you should be able to find something within a few weeks (or expand the search to EU if the shipping cost is not too much). For instance (this is just an example) there's a Metcal soldering station in the UK, you could make an offer (but I don't advise it unless you're absolutely sure of any potential customs fees; better to stick to EU).

EDIT: Just saw your Eleshop link to the soldering station (without tip) for 215 euro.. that's a great bargain! I would have bought that myself if I didn't already have a soldering station. Sure the genuine JBC tip may cost you 30-40 euro (I have not checked, this is a ballpark) but a single tip will serve you well for the soldering situations you will most likely experience; the JBC system (and also other good mnfr systems) will be able to deliver the heat to make joins even if the tip size is not what would normally be used.  If it were me, I'd order that, it looks great.

If you need a tip order code recommendation, I'm sure I (and others) can provide that, so that you will be happy with a single tip for now.

EDIT 2: By the way, just a personal opinion, I don't think it's good to ever insert a clone tip inside a genuine handle; the tolerances won't be the same (electrically and physically) and it's not a risk worth taking if it could damage the genuine handle and genuine station.

Added a screenshot of a possible candidate soldering tip. I think something like C245-905 would be better, but that store doesn't have such a wide selection. The one in the screenshot is a bit on the small side, but better that than too large. I'm confident the one in the screenshot would still be usable even when soldering the occasional mid-sized connectors (e.g. 3.5 mm audio, RCA/Phono and so on, even if not optimal). I think that tip is a reasonable one to consider, others may have better suggestions.

[marck120]

Hello
If you look for a simple soldering iron, I would recommend the Ersa 30. I bought mine in 1971 and it is still working.
The tip is quite big, so it is only for through hole components.
The Ersa Analog 60 is a true analog station and the tips for the Ersa stations are relatively inexpensive.

Hi,

I wanted to choose a soldering station with cartridge tips, either T12 or C245, otherwise there are many stations with 900M style tips, there are many models.

The Ersa Analog 60 is around 200€, I didn't want to spend that amount:

https://www.reichelt.com/it/it/shop/prodotto/stazione_di_saldatura_analog_60_60_w_1_canale-4338

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

Yes, I had seen the Ersa 30 on Amazon, there should also be the finest tip, without regulation I don't know what temperature the tip usually reaches, I'm afraid that too much heat will burn some component.

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

[shabaz]

(Just modified my comment above; that 215 euro offer looks excellent).

[tooki]

The JBC in the photo looks like an old soldering station but it is of new design

I did not say the one in the picture is old.

I said that where I used to work, we had very old ones similar to the one in the picture. That’s because JBC basically kept the same design around for many, many years. The one in the picture is not a “new design”, it’s an old design they still sell. (sorta? JBC does not list it on the website anymore. But a few resellers still have them.)

it is compatible with C245 tips

Um, obviously. Given that old versions were C245 compatible, it stands to reason the current version does. 

it iI liked it a lot but it exceeds the budget otherwise I would have bought it, I have not checked if it is also available used, there is also the same model with the display but it costs more, however I found it here for sale:

https://eleshop.eu/jbc-bt-2bqa-soldering-station.html

That is an excellent price for it.

For comparison, here’s an old, used one on eBay for only a little bit less:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/315744365819

(That station model is one of the ones I used in the past, so I know it’s C245 compatible, but I can’t tell from the picture what handles it comes with.)

For that small difference in price I’d definitely buy the new one.

At the moment on eBay I have only found this CD2BQE CD-2BQE T245, the price is very good:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/186694695927

Did you not read the description? That one is so cheap because it doesn’t work.

Yes I am aware of all the grounding problems on Chinese clones

No, I don’t think you are.

apparently some models have been updated, they have simply added a grounding cable

The models I’m thinking of do far, far worse: when the tip is grounded, they lose temperature regulation.

the soldering stations with linear transformer from what I understand do not suffer from this problem

As a general rule, that is true. Transformer-based units don’t seem to be as problematic as ones with switching supplies. (Which is probably the reason why all the big manufacturers use transformers for all, or nearly all, of their station models.)

they are very resistant

Resistant to what?!?

Do you mean “reliable”? (Resistant does not mean the same thing.)

an Italian youtuber has an electronics shop and repairs televisions professionally, I have been following his videos for years and he always uses a ZD-931.

Ok. What is your point?

That’s an inexpensive station that is adequate for many things. It just won’t have the performance of the cartridge heater systems.

With my budget however you would not buy any new soldering station ?

Well, at the usual price of new JBC stations, I indeed would normally recommend a used one instead of a Chinese clone.

But that price that you found on the new JBC at eleshop is fantastic. If I were in your position now, I’d save up a little longer (or skip a few visits to the bar or restaurant) and get the new JBC instead.


Another station you could consider, if you can find it for a similar price to that JBC, is the Ersa i-con nano. It’s not as powerful as the JBC, but is still really good, and the huge advantage over JBC is that the Ersa tips are FAR cheaper. The nano is what I have at home. At work, I have one of the “big” i-con stations, and I only notice the difference in power on REALLY heavy things, like soldering SMA connectors to a 4-layer PCB where you have to use a smallish tip because of nearby components. A used “big” i-con station would also be a good option, if the price is right.

[shabaz]

But that price that you found on the new JBC at eleshop is fantastic. If I were in your position now, I’d save up a little longer (or skip a few visits to the bar or restaurant) and get the new JBC instead.

It's incredible. If possible, it is worth taking that up quickly, in case it's a limited offer. That's a product that will continue to be a great instrument even after a decade. (and then you can possibly sell it for close to the price you're purchasing it for!).

EDIT: If you wish to save a little, then I have a spare (unused) C245-030 tip, which is non-ideal for general work (unless you prefer working with such conical tips; some people do, I find them more ideal only for specific tasks). It will certainly be fine for a while until you decide what tip you really want to buy. If you are buying a JBC station, then if you like, if you send me a shipping address via PM, I will post it (I don't know what your import charge will be, I will list it at $5 value since that's all it is likely worth, since I've had it for maybe 10 years but never got around to using it).

[marck120]

Thank you so much for the many tips you have given me.

I will answer both of you in one post.

Yes it is true, on eBay Italy there is not much choice, I have not found any decent soldering station either, I did not know that eBay refunded the money if the product does not match the description, yes I will keep eBay under observation to see if I find some interesting station.

It is true unfortunately the CD2BQE CD-2BQE T24 is not working, I did not realize, I had not read the description.

Some Chinese soldering stations should be compatible with the original JBC handles.

Regarding the JBC BT-2BQA on Eleshop it is 215 euros excluding VAT, you have to calculate how much it costs including VAT.

Yes the C245-905 tip on the shop you indicated to me is true that it costs 28 euros but since it is original it should last for a long time.

I would have found this one too but I don't think the photos are authentic, it could also be a scam, it seems too new to me:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356058369141

I realized now that $159.59 is just the cost of the handle.

Regarding the grounding problem I am referring to the loss of voltage, it was also reported by user tony359 on his Aixun T3A, I think the same problem is also present on the other Aixun models with switching, on ksger it is a known problem but I think they solved it by adding a ground wire, but the problem reported by tony359 I don't think is actually caused by the grounding.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/aixun-t3a-misbehaving-on-grounded-pcbs/

I forgot, regarding the ZD-931 I wanted to say that this youtuber has been using it for many years and it still works, resistant in the sense that it resists, it doesn't break, yes obviously it doesn't have the performance of cartridge heating systems, I didn't mean to say that.

Regarding the new Ersa i-con nano it costs 217 euros, now I should also check carefully on eBay if there is any used model.

https://it.farnell.com/ersa/0ic1305/stazione-saldatura-80w-230vac/dp/4246944

https://www.reichelt.com/it/it/shop/prodotto/stazione_di_saldatura_ersa_i-con_pico_mk2_68_w_1_canale-357477#open-modal-shipping

EDIT:

I saw your C245-030 tip, thanks again I'm not sure if I'll buy the JBC station, the final price is also higher, in that case I'll let you know about the tip.

[ferdieCX]

Yes, I had seen the Ersa 30 on Amazon, there should also be the finest tip, without regulation I don't know what temperature the tip usually reaches, I'm afraid that too much heat will burn some component.

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

There are two version of the Ersa 30S:
The 30W has a tip temperature of 380ºC  (this is the one I have)
The 40W has a tip temperature of 420ºC

[marck120]

Yes, I had seen the Ersa 30 on Amazon, there should also be the finest tip, without regulation I don't know what temperature the tip usually reaches, I'm afraid that too much heat will burn some component.

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

There are two version of the Ersa 30S:
The 30W has a tip temperature of 380ºC  (this is the one I have)
The 40W has a tip temperature of 420ºC

So this is the model:

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-ERSA-LOETTECHNIK-330KD-Saldatore/dp/B0009QX1MY/ref=sr_1_1

This is the fine tip:

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-032BD-Punta-per-saldare/dp/B000VD1C5S/ref=pd_bxgy_thbs_d_sccl_1/257-0431381-2241768

However 380° should not be excessive.

I see that it also exists in 25w, which should reach 360° :

https://www.amazon.it/SALDATORE-STILO-STAGNO-MULTITIP-PROFESSIONALE/dp/B07SFZH7NR/ref=sr_1_8

[ferdieCX]

Yes, there is also a fine point tip for the Ersa 30. I have never used it.
The Multitip C25 is another model of soldering iron, the tip temperature is 450 ºC. It uses another tip family

[marck120]

Yes, there is also a fine point tip for the Ersa 30. I have never used it.
The Multitip C25 is another model of soldering iron, the tip temperature is 450 ºC. It uses another tip family

It should be this: https://www.conrad.it/it/p/ersa-multitip-saldatore-230-v-25-w-stilo-450-c-max-810665.html

Excuse me, how come the Ersa 30 S 30w reaches 380° C and Multitip C25 with 25 w reaches 450 º C ? I thought that the temperature was proportional to the watts.

The watt regulation could also be adjusted with an external drimmer.

[tooki]

Excuse me, how come the Ersa 30 S 30w reaches 380° C and Multitip C25 with 25 w reaches 450 º C ? I thought that the temperature was proportional to the watts.

Temperature vs power is only proportional (more or less) when everything else is unchanged. But in those two irons, they’re clearly very different designs. The C25 has a much smaller mass to heat, and less surface area for heat to dissipate from, and uses smaller tips that won’t conduct as much heat.


Think of this wildly exaggerated example: suppose you have two heating elements for water. (Also assume that all tests start with the same temperature cold water, in the same ambient temperature and conditions.) One heating element is 300W, the other is 2000W. Which one will heat the water more? If you put them each into a 1 liter container, they will both boil the water, but the 2000W will clearly boil the water faster. But if we put the 300W one into a 1000 liter water tank, and the 2000W one into an Olympic size swimming pool (2.5 million liters), neither will boil, but the 300W one will eventually reach a steady state temperature that is much higher than the swimming pool.

[marck120]

@tooki

Perfect, you were very clear, as you explained to me the temperature varies based on the mass to be heated, in the tip with a smaller mass since the heat cannot disperse it will reach higher temperatures.

Anyway yesterday I noticed that the remote control of the ceiling fan did not work, after opening it I discovered that the negative cable of the battery was disconnected, the positive cable disconnected immediately after, this fact that happened made me think about the size of the tips that I will need, unfortunately from the photos and videos that I have seen online I do not realize the real size of the tips, since I was undecided between the T12 and C245 stations I thought that a soldering station that comes with both the C210 and C245 handles is more versatile, maybe even the smaller T12 tip could be fine, the size range of the JBC tips is this, C115, C210, C245, the C115 is just a needle so I will never need it.

I would not like to end up with a compatible station with a series of tips all too large to perform some soldering.

I attach the photos of the remote control printed circuit board, perhaps you can understand in general what size of tips I need.

[Shock]

There is some crossover in compatibility of RF tips between Metal and Thermaltronics (even Hakko) perhaps a guy running RF gear could advise better but I believe Thermaltronics tips were a cheaper option for basically the same performance on certain Metcal stations. Just not the MX5200 which is the 80W model.

There are also cheaper ways to get into a secondhand station than those "factory loved" ones. Have to keep an eye out for new listings, sometimes a handful of tips are included so can save hundreds. Others are after the same thing of course.

[marck120]

There is some crossover in compatibility of RF tips between Metal and Thermaltronics (even Hakko) perhaps a guy running RF gear could advise better but I believe Thermaltronics tips were a cheaper option for basically the same performance on certain Metcal stations. Just not the MX5200 which is the 80W model.

There are also cheaper ways to get into a secondhand station than those "factory loved" ones. Have to keep an eye out for new listings, sometimes a handful of tips are included so can save hundreds. Others are after the same thing of course.

Hi, thank you for the advice, obviously the RF remote control that I showed was only to show you the dimensions of the printed circuit board, I was only referring to the dimensions, because with a tip that is too big I would not be able to solder the two wires, the two pins where the cables are soldered are small and very close to each other, so I need something sharp, but I'm certainly not worried about anything, certainly any thin tip will do.

I don't know the Metal and Thermaltronics tips well, I should do some research, I was taking the JBC C115, C210, C245 and HAKKO T12 tips as a reference to see the dimensions and understand which ones might be more suitable, but I repeat that maybe I'm not worried about anything, maybe with any thin tip whether it's Metal, Thermaltronics, JBC or HAKKO I will be able to solder the cables on the two small pins of the printed circuit board, between the T12 and C245 tips in general I don't know if they are the same in size.

[marck120]

Do you think a setup like this could work ? The biggest doubt is about the controller.

DIY Soldering Panel for JBC C245 Soldering Station Replacement Handle Tips

https://www.ebay.it/itm/325594977073

Power Supply 24V 200W 8.3A

https://www.amazon.it/BRIMETI-Alimentatore-Trasformatore-Trasformatori-Alimentatoredi/dp/B0BRP3ZDJF/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

Rocker Switch

https://www.amazon.it/Heschen-Rocker-switch-terminali-250-VAC/dp/B073PWCJCP/ref=sr_1_1

Power Connector

https://www.amazon.it/CABLEPELADO-Connettore-alimentazione-Collegamento-saldatura/dp/B074PS1L3V/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_2/257-0431381-2241768

Aluminum Case

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004361653667.html

Cable Lugs Terminals

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0CPKZLQRD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3

Power Connector 2-Pin

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004064809719.html

Insulated Pin Terminals

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32899629919.html

Ring Terminals

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256802074945562.html

[BrokenYugo]

Biggest doubt is the uncertified alphabet soup brand power supply you've picked out, those tend to be a shock/fire waiting to happen.

[tooki]

Do you think a setup like this could work ? The biggest doubt is about the controller.

I mean... probably?

I would not buy components on Amazon. You pay through the nose for some of the stuff. (E.g. the IEC mains jack: over 8 euros?!? One of those from a name brand like Schurter should only cost a few euros.) Otherwise, much of it is the same stuff you get on AliExpress, just for more money.

Don't use an LED power supply. They aren't made for general use, so who knows what their power output looks like. And don't use no-name stuff. I would use a medical grade power supply from a name brand like Mean Well, TDK-Lambda, or Delta Electronics. Medical power supplies have low leakage (which is good for not frying your chips), and I would only use a name brand power supply because cheap ones can fry you. This is not a joke, this is not an exaggeration: many no-name power supplies are extremely poorly made in terms of safety. The danger is not theoretical: people have been killed from electrocution through bad power supplies. (And some by house fires caused by bad power supplies.)

Medical power supplies only cost a little bit more. Digikey's cheapest 200W 24V medical power supply is $53 -- just $1 more than the non-medical version. (It's from CUI, which is also OK.)



As I said, I would save up money for a few months longer and buy the real JBC at that fantastic price you found.

[marck120]

@BrokenYugo, @tooki

Thanks for the warnings, I didn't think LED power supplies were dangerous, should these power supplies be okay ?
I didn't understand exactly what the medical power supply is.

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RSP-200-24/7706308

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/PWM-200-24DA2/14307041

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/delta-electronics/PMH-24V200WCBA/5818890

https://it.farnell.com/tdk-lambda/ls200-24/psu-inclusa-24v-8-4a-200-w/dp/1995941

Okay, I found the rest of the components on Aliexpress:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005073073046.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007086016477.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4001199656144.html

The final price of the JBC BT-2BQA is 298.90€, plus I would have to buy the tip separately.

As an alternative to the JBC BT-2BQA I found the Jabe UD-1200 T245, it is a clone of JBC but the reviews say that the build quality is good:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/33040378742.html



Or the AIXUN T420, I contacted AIXUN on Facebook, they do not respond by email, they explained to me that the AIXUN T420 and T435 are now out of production, but it should not be a problem, both the Jabe UD-1200 and AIXUN T420 / T435 are compatible with the original JBC handles

https://www.componentidigitali.com/it/componenti-digitali-home-page/attrezzature-laboratorio/prodotti-per-saldatura/stazioni-saldanti/stazione-saldante-aixun-t420-245-per-saldatura-a-stagno-intelligente.1.39.836.gp.33650.uw

JBC BT-2BQA price:

[tooki]

@BrokenYugo, @tooki

Thanks for the warnings, I didn't think LED power supplies were dangerous, should these power supplies be okay ?
I didn't understand exactly what the medical power supply is.

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RSP-200-24/7706308

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/PWM-200-24DA2/14307041

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/delta-electronics/PMH-24V200WCBA/5818890

https://it.farnell.com/tdk-lambda/ls200-24/psu-inclusa-24v-8-4a-200-w/dp/1995941

While any of those is a much better choice than the LED driver you originally envisioned, none of them are medical power supplies. As I said, medical supplies cost only a little bit more and have advantages, so get one! On Digikey, in the Application parameter (Applicazioni in the Italian interface), choose the ones that include "medical". For the moment, don't worry yourself with why it is better, just know that it is a little bit better. I would certainly spend the extra 1-10 euros to get a medical version.

Okay, I found the rest of the components on Aliexpress:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005073073046.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007086016477.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4001199656144.html

Just order them from digikey or farnell or mouser together with your power supply. You want quality for all the mains stuff, and it really won't cost much.

Also, don't forget input and output fuses. You can get an input fuse holder built into the mains input jack.

The final price of the JBC BT-2BQA is 298.90€, plus I would have to buy the tip separately.

It's still what I'd buy if I were in your place!!!

Even if you get a JBC clone, you want to use genuine JBC tips, because most of the clone tips are junk. Using junk tips defeats the purpose of getting a JBC-like system to begin with. So you can, and should, ignore any clone tips included with any station.

As an alternative to the JBC BT-2BQA I found the Jabe UD-1200 T245, it is a clone of JBC but the reviews say that the build quality is good:

It might be good, it might not be. I don't know. You cannot trust most reviewers, because the people who review clone stations are usually not particularly experienced, and don't know the problems to look for. So they do some basic testing and declare it awesome (because it solders well), but they have no idea it has other problems, like leakage currents on the tip, which is a common problem with cheap stations, especially ones powered by switching power supplies. (All of the name-brand stations with grounded tips make sure to comply with the relevant military standards, which are very strict, and ensure you won't accidentally zap a sensitive component.) We saw this problem with the

So I'm not saying that a given cheap station must be bad, but I would only trust one if it were tested thoroughly by a highly knowledgeable, experienced person.

Or the AIXUN T420, I contacted AIXUN on Facebook, they do not respond by email, they explained to me that the AIXUN T420 and T435 are now out of production, but it should not be a problem, both the Jabe UD-1200 and AIXUN T420 / T435 are compatible with the original JBC handles

I would not touch an Aixun soldering station with a 3 meter stick. Their huge design flaws in the T3A and others indicate they don't really know what they're doing.

And I certainly wouldn't consider it for just 70 euros less!! 

Like, maaaaaaybe if it cost 90 euros I'd consider one. But not for 230 shipped, not when a genuine JBC is under 300.

[marck120]

@tooki

Thanks for all the explanations and advice, very kind

Regarding the power supplies for medical use, they should be these, I wonder if the various QUICKO or KSGER have such high quality power supplies inside, given the cost I don't think so, yes as you explained to me the power supplies on digikey that I had shown you previously should also be fine.

I think the 150w power supplies are not good because the C245 tips work at 8A

Power (W)=24V×8A=192w

Power supplies for medical use:


https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RPS-300-24/7706053

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/MSP-200-24/7705189

Sockets and switches:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/qualtek/723W-X2-03/245546

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/e-switch/RA1113112R/3778055

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/molex/2181130202/14309339

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/molex/0190030032/3186506

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/tensility-international-corp/54-00064/6206245

Regarding the fuse holders at the output I didn't understand exactly which one I need, in any case I don't have other soldering irons, so I have to wire all the cables without soldering.

Fuse holders:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/w%C3%BCrth-elektronik/696103201002/7244556

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/schurter-inc/8601-2001-08/2647189

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mpd-memory-protection-devices/BF310/8119220


I was evaluating carefully whether this type of configuration is convenient, the power supply costs about 60€/70€, the controller 40€ / 50€, plus the aluminum case, the power supply is always usable in the end since all the controllers work at 24v.

Did you explain to me that there is a risk that it won't work ? the same controller is also sold on Aliexpress, there are no reviews about it. So it is not clear if it is compatible with the original JBC T245 handles

In the description it says: T245 soldering tip and handle compatible JBC 245 soldering iron tip and handle.

So any JBC 245 tip and handle should be fine.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005431966064.html

Does the heating power of the soldering station also depend on the controller ? Or is a quality tip and a good power supply enough ? I mean this, I spend 70€ for a quality power supply, 40€ for an original JBC tip, but then if the controller is poor does it affect the heating performance during soldering ?

Yes, obviously a Chinese clone will never have the construction quality of an original JBC soldering station, the Jabe UD-1200 seems well built, on Aliexpress it costs 180€, it is 118€ less than the JBC BT-2BQA, the guy who reviewed the station also writes here on the forum, he seems very competent, then I don't know, there is always a risk.

The Jabe UD-1200 and the AIXUN T420/T435 do not have the T3A problem, the tips are connected to the ground, both have a linear transformer inside that is free from these problems, they are also compatible with the original JBC handles, if in the future the handle breaks it is very easy to find the replacement.

Sorry Google Translate does not help me, 3 meter stick regarding AIXUN what does it mean ? Is the handle too long ?

For now I am happy with a C245 clone tip, the original costs about 40€, I am aware that the quality is not comparable to the original, some clone tips are at least decent.

Reading this discussion I saw that you have an Ersa i-Con Nano, it is cheaper than the JBC, even the tips are found at lower prices, makes it very interesting.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ersa-i-con-nano-and-nano-mk2-differences/msg5655303/#msg5655303

I was also evaluating the GVM H3, but the same reviewer found the cables inside reversed from what I understand, other users have not had the same problem, the transformer seems undersized, it lacks a bit of power.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005001382618513.html



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T245 soldering station how I made one

[tooki]

I don’t know where you got the idea that C245 tips run at 192W of power. JBC stations push 130W peak power into them, and less continuous. So 150W is more than enough.

As I have never built a JBC clone station (and have no plans to do so) I can’t really answer most of the other questions.

Again, if you’re going to dick around with clone tips, then just cancel this entire exercise and buy a Pinecil, TS80, or TS100 and call it a day. The entire reason to use JBC is to use their tips; using clone tips is stupid.