HAKKO FX-888D decalibrated (DOH!)

[Sebzy]

Well just got my new 888D and decided to figure out the menus before reading the manual.
I went ahead and pressed everything and in doing so it looks like I've managed to trigger the calibration settings and now the iron set to 400c wont even melt some 60/40.

Hmm what to do...... went searching the HAKKO site for some sort of reset to defaults just to find there's no such thing It looks like I had two options
1. Send back to manufacturer for a service
2. Purchase a tip temperature tester like the HAKKO FG-100

Well as I'm pretty much broke now after buying the iron I settled for this quick hack.

1 - Turn on iron and give it 20 seconds or so to settle down the display reads 400°C
2 - Get a piece of solder and make sure it still wont melt I used SN99.3/CU0.7 1.5mm with a melting temperature of  227°C
3 - Enter calibration mode once more (hold UP for 2 seconds) and set the temperature to 230°C
4 - Now the iron thinks it's set for 230°C but we know it must be below that temperature as the solder has not melted yet.
5 - Set the tip temperature (Hold Enter for 2 seconds) and increase it by 10°C
6 - Check the solder for melting.
7 - Continue continue to increase in increments of 10°C until the solder melts.
8 - Go back into calibration and set the temperature to 230°C

This is in no way exact but it gets the iron back working. For more accuracy you could always increase in increments in 1°C units until the solder melts.

Note: Step 3 was added as I was unsure how far out I was i'm sure you could do without.

A bit disappointed HAKKO made the calibration menu so easy to access as it's quite like the normal temperature adjust. IMO it should be protected like setting presets which require a button press and the power switch.

[Balaur]

Option 3: get some thermocouple wire, wrap the tip with the thermocouple part, connect that to an appropriate multimeter and calibrate to the degree.

[Sebzy]

Or if you have the tools
Option 4 - IR Thermometer aimed at the tip while increasing the temperature.

[jpb]

Or if you have the tools
Option 4 - IR Thermometer aimed at the tip while increasing the temperature.

IR thermometers are calibrated for a particular surface emissivity, so you'd probably have to paint your soldering iron tip to get it accurate which might ruin it.
(I looked into this a while back when I was thinking of using an IR thermometer to check the temperature of components in a computer - most cheap ones are for
a fixed emissivity designed for buildings which is very different from a shiny metal heat sink for instance.)
http://www.scigiene.com/pdfs/428_InfraredThermometerEmissivitytablesrev.pdf

[Sebzy]

IR thermometers are calibrated for a particular surface emissivity, so you'd probably have to paint your soldering iron tip to get it accurate which might ruin it.
(I looked into this a while back when I was thinking of using an IR thermometer to check the temperature of components in a computer - most cheap ones are for
a fixed emissivity designed for buildings which is very different from a shiny metal heat sink for instance.)
http://www.scigiene.com/pdfs/428_InfraredThermometerEmissivitytablesrev.pdf

Ah forgot all about that but maybe a solution is a tip cap made from a black thermoplastic such as Polyphenylene Sulfide 40% you know the stuff used in projector light boxes and bulb housing.
Will have to experiment.

[nanofrog]

Use a eutectic solder alloy (which you have) + Multimeter that has a temperature function + K type thermocouple would be one way.

Another would be use a dedicated temp tester, such as a Hakko FG-100 or FG-101 clone. They can be had cheaply (can be had under $15USD from eBay or dealextreme) if you don't have a DMM that can do temp and don't want to buy one (i.e would require more money than the tester).

Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FG-100-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Thermometer-FG100-0-F-to-1300-F-/200876061693?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec52573fd

[Sebzy]

Went and ordered a MASTECH MS8229 from dx and now the wait begins.

[amyk]

A bit disappointed HAKKO made the calibration menu so easy to access as it's quite like the normal temperature adjust. IMO it should be protected like setting presets which require a button press and the power switch.

The perils of trying to cram as much functionality as possible into a UI with 2 buttons. I suppose they could've made it so you had to hold down both buttons to get into that mode...

[ivan747]

Frankly, I would just has an analog pot or rotary encoder with an integrated pushbutton and 2 buttons as my interface. The readout display would be in between the knob and the DIN connector. The rubber buttons would be curved around the knob right where the temperature labels are on the analog version. The analog Hakko looked really cool as the curved case was designed around the concept of having a knob. This digital rubish looks horrible in that case and on top of that is useless. 

I should study industrial design 
...nah I stay with electronics

[nanofrog]

Frankly, I would just has an analog pot or rotary encoder with an integrated pushbutton and 2 buttons as my interface. The readout display would be in between the knob and the DIN connector. The rubber buttons would be curved around the knob right where the temperature labels are on the analog version. The analog Hakko looked really cool as the curved case was designed around the concept of having a knob. This digital rubish looks horrible in that case and on top of that is useless. 

I should study industrial design 
...nah I stay with electronics

Nah, your description would make sense as to how to approach it.   

Closest thing I can think of, is Ersa I-Con models that use a rotary encoder (no soft keys IIRC).

[ivan747]

Option 3: get some thermocouple wire, wrap the tip with the thermocouple part, connect that to an appropriate multimeter and calibrate to the degree.

That's how I do it. I wonder what's the difference in accuracy vs. a tip temperature meter.

Option 5 would be getting some kind of material with a very stable melting point.

[jpb]

Closest thing I can think of, is Ersa I-Con models that use a rotary encoder (no soft keys IIRC).

My ersa i-CON NANO has just two buttons (up and down) and no rotary encoder. It does though have a micro SD card slot and computer software (which I've not yet used) .

Temperature calibration involves pressing both keys together to get the menu and then waiting 5 seconds to save the value.

[nanofrog]

My ersa i-CON NANO has just two buttons (up and down) and no rotary encoder. It does though have a micro SD card slot and computer software (which I've not yet used) .

I was thinking of the i-Con, i-Con 2, and i-Con Vario models.

[tvtechny]

I would just call the Hakko tech line @ 800-884-2556, then follow the prompts to talk to a technician.

[saturation]

Sorry to read, but your trouble is precisely why the digital readout is overkill, and more toyish than practical.  I hope the analog version isn't phased out in favor of the D version, if so, anyone who wants one better get one before its sold out.  The digital one makes no sense for reasons written here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/hakko-fx-888-soldering-station-discontinued/msg163563/#msg163563

[IanB]

A bit disappointed HAKKO made the calibration menu so easy to access as it's quite like the normal temperature adjust. IMO it should be protected like setting presets which require a button press and the power switch.

The perils of backwards progress. The rotary dial FX-888 was the superior design, but Hakko marketing folks couldn't leave a good thing alone. They felt compelled to "refresh" the product and thereby ruined it. Happens with everything these days.

[amyk]

If you want analogue control I think the Chinese will still be making 936 clones for quite some time yet.

...That is, until the day it's cheaper to have an MCU, buttons, and LCD instead of a pot with a knob and a comparator.

[megahz]

I still love analog soldering stations tho, but some times digital is better

[John Coloccia]

So funny to run across this thread.  The first thing I did when they introduced the 888D is read through the manual and watch the videos.  The very first thing that jumped out at me is the incredibly crappy interface, and the downright dangerous calibration procedure.  I shot off an e-mail to Hakko about it, and actually got a response, but I doubt anyone there cares.

Really disappointing.  I switched to Hakko over 10 years ago, outfitted labs at my old job with Hakko equipment, and I've been recommending the 936/888 line forever.  As soon as I saw what they did with the 888D, I knew I had to stop steering people to Hakko for entry level irons.  What a shame.

I knew it would happen to someone at some point, but I had no idea that people have started running into the calibration goof-up already.  And BTW, does anyone know why they changed the 888 series so that it doesn't stack? WTF?  Someone over there needs to lay off the sake.

What do I recommend for a good, entry level station now.  The only advice I have to give at the moment is, "Find a nice, used 936 if you can, or a NOS 888 if you must...just not the 888D".

[Bored@Work]

And BTW, does anyone know why they changed the 888 series so that it doesn't stack? WTF?  Someone's over there needs to lay off the saki.

Yes, they hired a designer. An industrial designer. A famous industrial designer. An expensive famous industrial designer. 

[amyk]

What do I recommend for a good, entry level station now.  The only advice I have to give at the moment is, "Find a nice, used 936 if you can, or a NOS 888 if you must...just not the 888D".

Or a 936 clone, they're not going to stop making those anytime soon.. you can then upgrade it with a genuine heater.

[xrunner]

I guess he already got something to measure it with but I got a Hakko FG-100 clone off Ebay for $18. 

Sorry to read, but your trouble is precisely why the digital readout is overkill, and more toyish than practical.  I hope the analog version isn't phased out in favor of the D version, if so, anyone who wants one better get one before its sold out.  The digital one makes no sense ...

Yup, I bought the analog version before they were all gone. But yea they are phasing it out.

[John Coloccia]

Yeah, I know.  I just hate to recommend Chinese anything...especially clones.  I initially dumped my old Weller because it suddenly started eating tips one year.  At the rate I was trashing them, it was cheaper to give it away and replace it with a Hakko.  I love my FP-101.  I wonder if Weller has sorted out whatever it is they were going through?  I know they moved production to Mexico.  I wonder if the quality ever came back?

I dunno...maybe an Edsyn?  But what a lousy footprint and design from an ergonomic standpoint.....stubbornly carried over into all of their products.  There's a real vacuum here if you're trying to stay out of China.

[BravoV]

What do I recommend for a good, entry level station now.  The only advice I have to give at the moment is, "Find a nice, used 936 if you can, or a NOS 888 if you must...just not the 888D".

Or a 936 clone, they're not going to stop making those anytime soon.. you can then upgrade it with a genuine heater.

But even using a genuine heater, if paired with a fake tip, its still pointless, like my discovery here -> Genuine vs fake Hakko solder tip comparison 

[nanofrog]

Yeah, I know.  I just hate to recommend Chinese anything...especially clones.  I initially dumped my old Weller because it suddenly started eating tips one year.  At the rate I was trashing them, it was cheaper to give it away and replace it with a Hakko.  I love my FP-101.  I wonder if Weller has sorted out whatever it is they were going through?  I know they moved production to Mexico.  I wonder if the quality ever came back?

I dunno...maybe an Edsyn?  But what a lousy footprint and design from an ergonomic standpoint.....stubbornly carried over into all of their products.  There's a real vacuum here if you're trying to stay out of China.

Weller has production in numerous countries (i.e. stations in Mexico and Germany, seen tips from Bosnia, Japan, Mexico, US), and it's all slid downhill from what I've seen.  Even their tips aren't that great these days, so I don't see Weller worth what they're charging these days IMHO.  At least for tips, Plato offers equivalents for some of Weller's tip series that do a lot better (not sure how widely they're available outside of the US though).

Not heard good things on the Edsyn stations.

I can't recall any of the major players/names as being made in China though (JBC, Ersa, Pace, OKi/Metcal, Hakko, and Weller off the top of my head).