Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?

[IreuN]

Link?

[duzycinek]

Link?

I bought this one: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004366923410.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.194.2b9a1c24W23gti&gatewayAdapt=glo2pol. Very good. Buzzing form this connector gone. But still buzzing in handle and also power supply is buzzing. Any tips to get rid of this noise?

[coppice]

There seems to be an "AiXun Official Store" on AliExpress now. Is that new? I never saw it before. Has anyone used it?

[bakermattj]

Anyone observed how the T3A normally behaves with a possibly bad tip?

Ordered a handful of Ali and JBC but haven't received the genuine ones yet.

Clone tip causes the unit to power cycle on loop when removing it from the stand. Heater measures 1.8ohm so may be out of spec.

Unit appears to work fine with supplied tips, but its new to me and if it could be faulty I would need to act fast.

[bakermattj]

There seems to be an "AiXun Official Store" on AliExpress now. Is that new? I never saw it before. Has anyone used it?

I didn't see it when I was searching. Ordered from easy100fix store because it has the most previous orders and good for aliexpress store rating.

If anyone is wondering the unit came with 2 foam pads for the handle.

[ilkinandr92]

Hey guys, I am looking for a good soldering iron. After reading much discussions it seems that t3a had some issues at start and no esd or current protection if mosfet dies. I’m looking into t3a/s, T420/D and Sequre S99 any advice would be recommended.

[dreamcat4]

Of the ones you quoted, I still myself firmly belive (*as owner of an original t3a, that has been modded a fair bit). That it's still the best of those you shortlisted.

OFC there may be other irons come out in future, and some might be a bit more suited for certain mobile applications. But for a regular general purpose bench iron, that can also do micro soldering + both higher power soldering. It's just all round the best you can get. And that includes whatever JBC wants to sell you these days. I absolutely stand by it with my own money. Actually I haven't purchased the ESRA, JBC or Metcals myself. Or tried them. But just going by what I've seen (in detail online). T3a still is my preferred iron.

it seems that t3a had some issues at start and no esd or current protection if mosfet dies

Thing is they aren't actually much big issues at all. In terms of the ESD AFAICT it's not to do with the mosfet? Only regarding the stand detect function. Which is that extra 4mm banana jack wire you plug in seperately into the cradle. To let it know when you've replaced the handle into the cradle (to send into idle mode / sleep mode).

Thing is if that GPIO dies, you can replace the MCU and reflash the firmware. Or alternatively the simplest mod for putting a TVS diode onto the main pcb... it ain't that hard! And so long as you have another iron available to do that mod with. Then it's sufficiently protected.

You can take mods further, but at a minimum i would just say you only really need to add the TVS diode (and thats it, no cap or other passives needed, although it doesnt hurt, it's just not technically actually required). And you will be sufficiently ESD protected.

The other matter of pre-order at least 1x spare MCU from aliexpress is also another form of backup protection. In case either that (now protected with the mod) GPIO line dies. Or anything else (other GPIOs) dies. Then you can just replace the $3 mcu on the $150 station and it should all be fine after a reflash. Which... probably will never happen after TVS mod.

Oh and replacing the capsin the PSU - it's also recommended for maximum lifetime of the station. But not any sort of a hard requirement. That would run you about $5-$7 maybe, and could be ordered at the same time as ordering the TVS diode from digikey / similar. But only mentioned since it's just convenient matter and simple to do when you already have to open up the station anyhow to do the TVS mode. To then do it at same time.

Again - these mods are optional. If you are lazy or want to defer those to some inteterminate later date. Then it's entirely your own choice(s). They just are some common sense to know about before buying it is all. And i'm sure you can go out and purchase many other products in 2023 which have far worse manufacturing defects (from factors)... like well, basically any car(s) for example.

So all in all, not a reason not to buy. Rather a plus. To know how to properly service this unit. From community contributed information / guidelines. Couldn't be happier about it really.

Only 1 thing I would want to see improved on T3a is to have some "manual" push button mechanism added into the firmware. As an actual alternative to setting down in the cradle. That you could use either / or to put into sleep mode.

Still on the v1.26 firmware. So not sure if they ever added that later on. However I suppose.... another mod could add a dedicated physical switch? I might actually be motivated to do that. Having not twigged on to that (until just now)...

But you know... there are other irons can come out. Either recently or in future. That also uses these same official C245 cartridges. (or the other C210 / whatever ones).

[ilkinandr92]

Does T420 require any of those mods? I looked over that forum but there isn’t much information on there. With T3A I would want to move the cable to back and make it all one cord and with all parts needed for all of that and time it would prob be better to get T420 for 200$. Also I’m not that familiar on how to do those mods unless there are guides posted somewhere.

[mebel]

v1.3

[dreamcat4]

v1.3

Hmm...

* D7 has 'moved' (or mod fix is integrated, might be same IDK).
* D8 - new (added)

But I don't see any TVS diode added for the GPIO protection on the stand detect input line? (unless that is the D8, not so sure).

[mebel]

better picture.

[dreamcat4]

you know, the other fella here on this thread cooked up a schematic for the previous version already. so that might be helpful to highlight any minor differences.

the reason i say that: is because black pcb isn't very photogenic. when it comes to picking out the individual traces. so to buzz out with a multimeter those couple of spots.

and then scribble onto the pre-existing schematic. but as far as i remember... the gpio input line for the tip handle detection. it just goes horizontalls straight across. and no place near to those changed d8 area (presumably is that area is for thermocouple amplifier input, the op-amp?).

anyhow either way ---> 0 changes for the (1 line of) esd input protection. those traces path all remains exactly the same.

[ronovar]

Hi to all owners of AiXun T3A.

I buy last year AiXun T3A and would like to recap PSU on this nice soldering iron. Here is list that i add in mouser so if you could check if this is OK capacitors to order and replace on PSU because i want to be on safe side (now is some green looking capacitors on PSU that is probably 2000 hours rated and i want to change it to 10 000 hours rated capacitors with Low ESR and high ripple current as this is SMPS and fast high current are here generated so capacitors are on stress when iron shows 100% power when going from ambient temperature to 350C in 3 seconds, so capacitors are on big stress here and i want to put some quality caps here).

Here is list:

https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/232-400BXW82MEFR18X2
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-EEU-FS1V102LB
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/232-35ZLH470MEFC10X1
https://hr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/232-50YXM10MEFR5X11

Too bad that rubycon does not have 1000uF/35V 10 000hours in 10mm diameter and 5mm spacing so i choose Panasonic that is also great cap.

I read that it is recommended to add TVS diode for ESD protection, could i get link to part number in mouser so that i can order that too when ordering new caps?

As i noted soldering station works just fine, no problems and is updated to lastest firmware, i just want to take precautions about caps recapping and ESD protection as i love this station so much that makes works a lot easy.

[c0d3z3r0]

v1.3

Hmm...

* D7 has 'moved' (or mod fix is integrated, might be same IDK).
* D8 - new (added)

But I don't see any TVS diode added for the GPIO protection on the stand detect input line? (unless that is the D8, not so sure).

No, D8 is not new. It was there in v1.2 already

[drksy]

Just bought the T3A new version from AliExpress. Two glaring issues: the station and the handle buzz loudly as it pwms the the 24V into the tip, and also the front of the handle gets warm after just a few minutes of being on. The buzzing sound is just unbearable and gets on my nerves. Given how difficult it is to disassemble the front panel, and now with this new edition, removing the power supply board is a pain too, I would just say stay away from this soldering station.

It's probably a loose connection somewhere, but is it worth my time to debug? I have to pry open the front panel and risk breaking it, and on top of that, pry loose the power devices under the PCB that are siliconed down to the case. And that just to take a second look on a faulty brand new product? And how do I even go about gluing the supply board back to the case? The old gunk probably has to be removed first which is just a pain in the ass. The old design with glued front panel already wasn't DIY friendly, but now that the power supply is also glued down, they REALLY don't want you to take it apart.

My alternative right now is just to buy the genuine handle and the tip, a toroidal transformer, a case, and just DIY the control circuit (similar to Marco Reps project on youtube). I guess it would be a good learning experience about PID control at least, and I'm almost guaranteed good performance.

My two cents: buy this soldering station at your own peril. You will certainly NOT get anywhere near JBC level of reliability. I have a dispute open for return.

[mastershake]

we use these in a very busy shop. 12 of them have been setup for over a year or thereabouts now (you can read back through the thread i think it was this thread) they get used every day and only had an issue with one and that was simply a bad cap. with some heat if you have ever opened the screen to a cell phone you should be fine opening these up. they really are not that hard to open, but i would def make them send out a replacement i have a total of 18 of the t3a (different versions) and only had that one cap issue and had buzzing from one handle. they sent me out a replacement unit (complete unit though they wanted me to replace all the parts so they sent out new handle, wires, charging pcb'd etc) and i handled it directly through aliexpress so they had me send it to them directly instead of the seller in china. i also have the equal amount of t3b's and 10 of the 420d's in use (3 of those are my personal 420d units and 2-3 of each of the a and b's are mine also. they rest belong to the shop and get used all the time every day. not at all saying you cant have an issue but just because a VERY small number of people had an issue does not mean everyone will

[dreamcat4]

i would simply say send new version back, get old version.

however perhaps subsequent hardware updates on old (original) version means i cannot tell you how it is now. for that you need to figure out for yourself.

for front panel removal steps (for any potential future replacement original version) then i recommend to read our earlier tips in this thread. however it's some time ago where we explained the best techniques to remove front panel.

but if you have decided completely different model then that does not matter.

[c0d3z3r0]

Just bought the T3A new version from AliExpress. Two glaring issues: the station and the handle buzz loudly as it pwms the the 24V into the tip, and also the front of the handle gets warm after just a few minutes of being on. The buzzing sound is just unbearable and gets on my nerves. Given how difficult it is to disassemble the front panel, and now with this new edition, removing the power supply board is a pain too, I would just say stay away from this soldering station.

It's probably a loose connection somewhere, but is it worth my time to debug? I have to pry open the front panel and risk breaking it, and on top of that, pry loose the power devices under the PCB that are siliconed down to the case. And that just to take a second look on a faulty brand new product? And how do I even go about gluing the supply board back to the case? The old gunk probably has to be removed first which is just a pain in the ass. The old design with glued front panel already wasn't DIY friendly, but now that the power supply is also glued down, they REALLY don't want you to take it apart.

My alternative right now is just to buy the genuine handle and the tip, a toroidal transformer, a case, and just DIY the control circuit (similar to Marco Reps project on youtube). I guess it would be a good learning experience about PID control at least, and I'm almost guaranteed good performance.

My two cents: buy this soldering station at your own peril. You will certainly NOT get anywhere near JBC level of reliability. I have a dispute open for return.

IMO you're a bit exaggerating here The front panel is not that hard to remove, really not. The silicone under the PCB *could* be some thermal paste/glue as well, so not sure if it's only bc they don't want you to tear it apart. Last but not least: what did you expect from a chinese product? \o/

Also, an older version T3A could be faulty as well, just like a original JBC station could be.

Regarding the buzzing issue: some people reported that problem, others don't have that issue. Seems to happen on a case by case basis

My alternative right now is just to buy the genuine handle and the tip, a toroidal transformer, a case, and just DIY the control circuit (similar to Marco Reps project on youtube). I guess it would be a good learning experience about PID control at least, and I'm almost guaranteed good performance.

Well, have fun with even more (unexpected) issues

[drksy]

IMO you're a bit exaggerating here The front panel is not that hard to remove, really not. The silicone under the PCB *could* be some thermal paste/glue as well, so not sure if it's only bc they don't want you to tear it apart. Last but not least: what did you expect from a chinese product? \o/

Right now I'm negotiating with the seller about return cost. But really, if it's not that hard to get the font panel off, I would seriously appreciate someone point me to where in this massive thread I should look for ideas to pry it off. I do have access to a hot air station, so I assume I just heat it to what, 100C or something? For 10 minutes? And use a suction cup or prying plastic? And hope I don't crack the flimsy screen glued to the front panel? It is frustrating to even think about it.

If I can get the front panel off, maybe there is some hope of re-doing the connection between the 24 supply and the control board, and also maybe while it's off, remove the barrel connector for the handle and solder it directly down to the PCB to avoid connector issues. I can't stress enough how annoying it is to have to do that on a new product. Can we not expect better from the great people of China?

Regarding the buzzing issue: some people reported that problem, others don't have that issue. Seems to happen on a case by case basis

What has been the proposed solution?

[dreamcat4]

front panel removal was discussed here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/any-opinions-on-the-aixun-t3a/msg4826336/?topicseen#msg4826336

however i do think you should instead simply return this unit, and keep arguing the return postage fees, not good enough.

[c0d3z3r0]

Regarding the buzzing issue: some people reported that problem, others don't have that issue. Seems to happen on a case by case basis

What has been the proposed solution?

Unfortunately, there was none, yet bc nobody from the thread investigated further

Right now I'm negotiating with the seller about return cost. But really, if it's not that hard to get the font panel off, I would seriously appreciate someone point me to where in this massive thread I should look for ideas to pry it off. I do have access to a hot air station, so I assume I just heat it to what, 100C or something? For 10 minutes? And use a suction cup or prying plastic? And hope I don't crack the flimsy screen glued to the front panel? It is frustrating to even think about it.

Yeah, something like that. IIRC I did 100C or 120C for 30-60 sec or so. Don't center the hot air on the display for too long! When the glue got soft you can easily remove the panel with a suction cup or prying plastic. The glass is about 1 - 1.5mm roughly, not too thin.

[dreamcat4]

yeah, it's important to understand the front cover is in fact toughened smartphone glass (rather than plastic). so it can takes the heat. and so can the thin (so easier to defore / the weakest link) folded metal aluminium subframe cover behind the glass (to which the glass is so strongly glued to). and that the most heat sensitive component behind is that lcd screen (perhaps as low as only 60c but dont quote me). anyhow the point is with a low enough longer preheat temperature soak*  (to be low enough not to risk the lcd screen - so maybe? in the approximate range of 100-150c then? due to the hot air temp needing to be significantly higher than the desired target temp being transferred onto target objects). then rapidly with a high enough / powerful enough thermal shock before that spike has long enough time to kill the lcd. then you can melt the glue (and especially concentrating nearly all of the spike on right hand side of panel, where buttons, connector and most of the troublesome glue is actually thickest area to tackle)...

then peeling with suckion cups towards you from right hand side first then to left. and any rim / edge of colder (more hard / stuck) glue remaining around lcd will come aways last, finally, since you started the peeling action from the right, where most of the glue actually is. then meaning there is little remaining resistance.

you will still have to hit the lcd side a bit too. but you have to be more conservative over there, only move the hot air nozzle around the edges / rim on the lcd side... where the thin edge of glue actual is.

this will maximimize the safety of the operation.

if you hit the spike for too short a time, or with too low soak preheat temperature. then the operation might fail 1st time (if it was too conservative with the heating). then you might wait a delay to cool down a bit before trying a 2nd time. to reduce risks to the lower temp lcd. but in my own attempt i didn't actually know it was the case, and just was overly aggressive pulling at the glass. and both the glass and lcd remained completely fine and intact.

i did not even use any suction cup(s) whatsoever either! because instead (mistaking the cover for plastic one) i was too conservative with the heating. and ended up running a bunch of thin metal pry tools successively around the edges. and going from the wrong lcd side too. by all accounts i should have sustained more damages, but i just ended up messing up the weeky alu subframe, and ripping out 1 of those tiny internal screws (the must be m2.5 laptop screws).

anyhow that's everything about removing the front glass. it isn't actually so bad as all that. those are just the expected ways to try to minimize any possible damages. i have seen much worse than this... like any smartphones basically. this is easier than most smartphones. and people crack into those every days now.

[drksy]

Thank you for this detailed explanation. Given how expensive it is to ship this back to China, the seller just agreed to send me either a replacement "motherboard", or a new unit if they can. So it might be the case that I have to crack it open regardless.

I'm just curious, do you guys have any tips to glue it back after you are done? I assume you don't want to use such strong glue again. Maybe paper glue stick?

[dreamcat4]

It could be that there is still some residual adhesive left stuck on the internal surfaces. Such that it's not essential. However the product that another person here suggested (and in fact used) was the black T7000 smartphone adhesive. But failing that there are other similar smartphone adhesives (under names other than T7000). But failing that you can use other types of black gasket sealant like the Kafuter K-586. Which is labeled as 'oxime' or 'neutral cure' on the label (so therefore does not emit ammonia during the curing process, which can damage / corrode).

[edit]
or come to think of it... just even cutting some little thin strips of double sided tape should also work too. if doing that maybe then there can be some little gap not fully sealed. perhaps as a route to let in dust particle. but not really such insurmountable problem to overcome. with some extra due care / dilligence.

[c0d3z3r0]

I have just put 4 tiny dots of T-7000 glue on the four edges - sticks well for months already