Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?

[SHTechnics]

Or it's reverse bias protection, to keep Q3 stable at higher temperatures? Not sure where the trace is going.

When I open it again I'll take HD pictures. From what I see now : U4+ --> source Q3 --> D8 (Schottky SS24?) --> ground-

[mastershake]

i may see if i can add it into the circuit on ours if its actually for extra protection.

[imqqmi]

I've done some actual soldering for a couple of days and really like it so far! There's one thing about the supplied tips, the bent conical tip. When wetting the tip the solder seems to creep up to the wider part of the tip and can't get solder to stick on a solder joint. Anyone else experienced this? I'll buy a geniune jbc tip, probably a bent chisel tip. Northridgefix seems to like that kind of tip for small joints like micro usb pins and hdmi ports. I used the 3mm hoof/well type tip, even though it works, I got solder on the usb connector case. Easily wicked off but I'd prefer a smaller tip.

I used the 5mm chisel for desoldering caps with both pins heated up at the same time, works a treat! It came in handy recapping an amp with large copper planes too. No pads lifted, no burning pcb etc. Nice joints and easy to clean up.

Did some drag soldering of a tssop package with the hoof tip. Need some more practice, the well needs to be abundantly filled with solder. Some pins just didn't flow on to the pads.

[GnomeZA]

Unsure if others have done this but I ordered a genuine JBC handle

Differences I could spot:
- Connector had to be changed out
- Cable on the JBC has a slightly different feel
- JBC comes with foam to go over handle (x2 actually)
- JBC comes with a rubber grommet type thing that goes on the front of the tip to prevent smoke going in I guess

Cost $72 so not sure it was worth it, but I wanted as close as possible to the JBC feel without actually paying JBC prices.

[SHTechnics]

I've done some actual soldering for a couple of days and really like it so far! There's one thing about the supplied tips, the bent conical tip. When wetting the tip the solder seems to creep up to the wider part of the tip and can't get solder to stick on a solder joint. Anyone else experienced this? I'll buy a geniune jbc tip, probably a bent chisel tip. Northridgefix seems to like that kind of tip for small joints like micro usb pins and hdmi ports. I used the 3mm hoof/well type tip, even though it works, I got solder on the usb connector case. Easily wicked off but I'd prefer a smaller tip.

I used the 5mm chisel for desoldering caps with both pins heated up at the same time, works a treat! It came in handy recapping an amp with large copper planes too. No pads lifted, no burning pcb etc. Nice joints and easy to clean up.

Did some drag soldering of a tssop package with the hoof tip. Need some more practice, the well needs to be abundantly filled with solder. Some pins just didn't flow on to the pads.

They don't wet well when new. Just buy some JBC tips, a world of difference... . I really like the C245-912 (hoof) and C245-785 (barrel) for the usual soldering. (https://www.eleshop.nl/jbc-soldeerpunt.html)

[SHTechnics]

Unsure if others have done this but I ordered a genuine JBC handle

Differences I could spot:
- Connector had to be changed out
- Cable on the JBC has a slightly different feel
- JBC comes with foam to go over handle (x2 actually)
- JBC comes with a rubber grommet type thing that goes on the front of the tip to prevent smoke going in I guess

Cost $72 so not sure it was worth it, but I wanted as close as possible to the JBC feel without actually paying JBC prices.

Why? The difference is not that big. And mine (T3A) came also with two foams for the handle (also available on AE and BG).
I just wonder if the little rubber grommet is sold separately, because I believe it fits the handle of the Aixun.

[I Broke it Again]

I just wonder if the little rubber grommet is sold separately, because I believe it fits the handle of the Aixun.

They are available separately.
JBC Part# OB2000
Sealing Plug

Don't know if id go out of my way to buy one, but then I don't do production soldering.

[Ungolian]

If you're using active flux, sure.  It probably helps.  Otherwise, I wouldn't bother.  Plus, that seal from JBC probably costs as much as a replacement handle from AliExpress...

[GnomeZA]

The JBC handle with 2 foams and 2 plugs costs $70.  Yeah it's expensive but it isn't nearly at the same level as their soldering station

[GnomeZA]

On another note.  The Aixun is conveniently split into 2 parts.  The power supply board and the rest, correct?

So in theory you could completely rip out the power supply and say power it with a Mean Well LRS-200-24, it safety and such were a serious concern.

Comparatively the LRS-200-24 is almost double the size of the Aixun power supply which makes me have very, very strong doubts about its ability to truly deliver 200w continuously.  Almost certainly that 200w isn't 100% duty cycle

[SHTechnics]

Almost certainly that 200w isn't 100% duty cycle

I completely agree, but It would also be very rare to use the full power during several minutes so even with an 10%ED it would be sufficient.

[SHTechnics]

If you're using active flux, sure.  It probably helps.  Otherwise, I wouldn't bother.  Plus, that seal from JBC probably costs as much as a replacement handle from AliExpress...

7,5€ for 10 pieces

[Ungolian]

Well... That was half sarcasm, and half a serious poke at JBC's prices.  As for the power supply, go back to page 8.  There's plenty of discussions there about it.  It seems to be a 120w supply that can be overdriven to about 190w, but really shouldn't be sustained.  No one has reported it reaching 200w in practical use.

[GnomeZA]

Almost certainly that 200w isn't 100% duty cycle

I completely agree, but It would also be very rare to use the full power during several minutes so even with an 10%ED it would be sufficient.

Oh yeah for sure 100% duty cycle is unrealistic.  With all that said, safety is likely something more people would be worried about.  But just for fun I looked at possible alternative power supplies and this looks like a possible candidate:  https://www.amazon.com/PPS-200-24-Open-Frame-Switching-Supply-Single/dp/B005T6LRW0

I already bought caps to replace the Aixun PSU caps with proper branded kind, so I don't plan to make this change but if the PSU goes, I'll very likely try to get MeanWell PPS series into it.

[Ungolian]

Mean Well is a good company because of the quality control.  Quality control is Aixun's weakness.  The power supply in the T3A is perfectly adequate, if all goes well.  Some questionable soldering in some units, as well as a screw floating around inside, a couple of cracked inductors, and cheap Chinese electrolytics are the (potential) issues.  Clean up anything that needs it, look out for bad solder joints, and replace the electrolytics within the first 6 months or so (depending on its workload), and the quality control problem is solved.  Eltax did a load test FLIR image posted on page 13, 24v/6a, and it failed after 2 hours.  The smaller heat sink and the mosfet attached to it got the hottest, and was probably the first thing to fail.  That's an unrealistic situation the put the unit in.  Replace the power supply if you want to, but no one has reported any failures so far, and some are used in production work.  Q3 on the control board was the only other potential issue.  If it goes bad, the tip will burn out. There was some talk about using something beefier, but it really hasn't been an issue either.  Improve whatever you want to, but the general consensus seems to be it's a great unit that may need a little attention.           

[GnomeZA]

Mean Well is a good company because of the quality control.  Quality control is Aixun's weakness.  The power supply in the T3A is perfectly adequate, if all goes well.  Some questionable soldering in some units, as well as a screw floating around inside, a couple of cracked inductors, and cheap Chinese electrolytics are the (potential) issues.  Clean up anything that needs it, look out for bad solder joints, and replace the electrolytics within the first 6 months or so (depending on its workload), and the quality control problem is solved.  Eltax did a load test FLIR image posted on page 13, 24v/6a, and it failed after 2 hours.  The smaller heat sink and the mosfet attached to it got the hottest, and was probably the first thing to fail.  That's an unrealistic situation the put the unit in.  Replace the power supply if you want to, but no one has reported any failures so far, and some are used in production work.  Q3 on the control board was the only other potential issue.  If it goes bad, the tip will burn out. There was some talk about using something beefier, but it really hasn't been an issue either.  Improve whatever you want to, but the general consensus seems to be it's a great unit that may need a little attention.         

Have to strongly disagree with the "Mean Well has good quality control is what makes them a good company".  Their designs are very good.  I have bought several of their SMPS so far and there is a lot more than just quality control.  They also only use Japanese capacitors on their units I've bought recently.  Not even Siglent are doing that.  They use high quality transformers.  It may have been a different story a few years ago.  But the latest PSUs I've bought for 3d printers (LRS series) are superb quality.  There isn't a single cheap thing on the PCBs and the PCB revision date codes are very recent so they are almost certainly continuing to improve them

As for the replacing it, as I said in my post, I'm not going to replace it now, but if it gives up I will.

[SHTechnics]

I agree with Ungolian, quality control is Aixun's weakness and that's why I opened it and checked out the internals the moment I got it. But it looks like they've learned and the soldering is better now, no loose screws or solder. I've replaced directly all the caps, fixated a broken inductor (transport damage) but that's it.
It seems that I have a newer version (V1.2) and I have an extra diode D8 which seems an extra protection for Q3. That last one has to be verified yet when I have the time to reopen it.

[yelkvi]

Hello.
A week ago I bought an Aaixun T3A  soldering station complete with c245 handle. Firmware version 1.25
Three days later, a malfunction appeared - the station stopped switching to sleep mode when the soldering iron handle was placed on the stand.

All other functions work. Connects to a computer via USB.
You can read the firmware version and serial number.
I reset the controller to factory settings. Did not help.
Moreover, the controller sees that the handle is installed on a stand - this is noticeable from the power graph. But the temperature does not decrease, but remains the one that I set. Sleep does not appear on the screen
It is likely that this is a software bug. I can't flash the new software - version 1.25 is the latest.
What else can I do?

[GnomeZA]

the station stopped switching to sleep mode when the soldering iron handle was placed on the stand.

All other functions work. Connects to a computer via USB.
You can read the firmware version and serial number.
I reset the controller to factory settings. Did not help.
Moreover, the controller sees that the handle is installed on a stand - this is noticeable from the power graph. But the temperature does not decrease, but remains the one that I set. Sleep does not appear on the screen
It is likely that this is a software bug. I can't flash the new software - version 1.25 is the latest.
What else can I do?

I believe there is a configuration option to disable the sleep mode.
Are you sure you didn't change the configuration options?

[yelkvi]

I wrote that I reset the settings to factory settings.

Wrote a letter to the developer (manufacturer). Attached video. While the Chinese are silent.

[krondor]

I'd like to replace the electrolytic capacitors, too.
Am I right in assuming that the (easy) removal of the the back cover isn't enough, but I have to remove the front cover as well, potentially damaging the surface that's glued to it?
Are there methods that probably won't damage the front? Not sure I can do it as well as can be seen in Steve's youtube video.

Does it make sense to replace the MOSFET for a beefier one too, once I'm in there?

[yelkvi]

You can not remove the front cover.
Pull the connector from the front board with long tweezers and pull the power supply back.
Then also put the connector with tweezers.

[I Broke it Again]

I'd like to replace the electrolytic capacitors, too.
Am I right in assuming that the (easy) removal of the the back cover isn't enough, but I have to remove the front cover as well, potentially damaging the surface that's glued to it?
Are there methods that probably won't damage the front? Not sure I can do it as well as can be seen in Steve's youtube video.

Yep like poster before me said, just pull rear cover and reach in with something and un-do the "Tab" on the connector that goes to the front panel. Once done slide the PSU back in while lining up the connector again and make sure its seated all the way when done.

You can pull the front Sticker off to access the screws and take it all the way apart but its not needed to mess with the PSU. If you do, use a little bit of heat to help it peel off.

Does it make sense to replace the MOSFET for a beefier one too, once I'm in there?

Not really. Honestly there is no reason to swap the caps either, I'm sure they will function just fine for years to come.
I swapped mine just because I had a string of failures with cheap caps in smp's so I'm a little paranoid.  Definitely no reason to special order them and pay shipping, If your putting an order in for other stuff, add them in sure, but it definitely isn't necessary to swap them out.

[krondor]

Yep like poster before me said, just pull rear cover and reach in with something and un-do the "Tab" on the connector that goes to the front panel. Once done slide the PSU back in while lining up the connector again and make sure its seated all the way when done.

You can pull the front Sticker off to access the screws and take it all the way apart but its not needed to mess with the PSU. If you do, use a little bit of heat to help it peel off.

Thanks for your reply. I heard it on Steve's video that the front sticker is glued to the cover and I'm a little hesitant to remove it for fear of damaging it.
I was mainly asking about the front because after opening the back the power supply pcb won't budge one bit, no matter what I try, so I suspected maybe a screw in the front part of the case is holding it in place. But that seems to have been a wrong assumption.
I have no idea why the pcb is stuck. Well I guess I just stick with the caps.

[mastershake]

did you remove the screw for the ground wire? it it right behind the psu pcb usually on the right side. and there is a bit of glue there they used on the corners of the pcb you may have to carefully pull off or break loose. the front is a pain to get off and the one i took off was not very sticky after that so i had to carefully clean all the tape off and retape it with better tape (the stuff i use for phone screens) and i only taped it around the edges so i can remove it easier later if i need to. its not to bad to remove if you go slow and take your time but you should not have to remove it really