T12/C245/C210 DIY Soldering Station

[Jono434]

I'm creating this thread to track the progress of a DIY station for a T12 style controller, that can also be compatible with C245 or C210.  Using DavidAlfa's custom firmware.

The easy thing to do would be to get an Aixun T3A and be done with it.  But I'm hoping this approach can have some other positives or advantages without costing too much more.  In sharing some of my thought process or progress here, hopefully someone with more knowledge might be able to suggest an alternative idea.

But it may also help others, if they are trying to learn or want to do the same thing for themselves.  Or improve some aspects with their own DIY approach to the same idea for a station.

Goals
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- Use a robust power supply that should be rock solid for many years, and free from any concerns like heatsinks sitting on top of high voltage traces, lack of fuses etc.
- An external 24V output for Pine64 Pinecil V2 or Miniware TS101.  The enclosure would be able to serve as an external DC adapter with the front display off.  While also being able to function as a dual station with a push button on the front display for turning the internal controller on or off.
- Rear mounted heater GX12 connection.
- Sleep mode activated by placing the handle in soldering stand.  And having the handle and stand fit properly in the stand for both C245 and T12.  C210 will be tough, but it will still function, it will just wobble around internally a bit.
- The enclosure to have enough weight so that it is stable on the desk and doesn't wobble around.
- Enough power for C245 tips to heat up quickly, while also being small enough to fit in the enclosure.
- General stability and reliability, free of any glitches or bugs etc.
- Easy interior access and have everything modular so that if one part fails, it can be easily repaired or replaced with parts that are easy to obtain and still available.  So that it can function for many years without problems.
- Potentially other useful features, like a switch on the rear for switching between 23V, 24V or 25V for external voltage output to boost or decrease the wattage of the Pinecil or TS101.

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If anyone has any experience with trying something like this, or any insights feel free to share any thoughts.

It will take weeks or months to gather the parts and optimize what options to use or not use.  I generally just like the idea of having flexibility going forward, in terms of different handle types, different tips etc.  And in a small enclosure that doesn't slide around and doesn't take up too much bench space.

[Jono434]

I'm currently trying to determine optimum chassis size, and the implications of one choice vs another.

Options
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Small Chassis Approach: (using the regular 38mm X 88m size that most T12 stations use)

Chassis Size - 150mm X 88mm X 38mm (160mm length if space between PSU and controller board is too cramped)
Controller board - KSGER V2.1S with STM32 controller chip (to be used with DavidAlfa's custom firmware)
PSU - Meanwell RPS-200-24 (200W fan cooled, 140W passive cooled) - Datasheet
PSU Mounting - PCB Standoffs or Spacers with 1mm clear acrylic plexiglass to isolate the bottom of the PCB from the chassis.

Problems - Rear panel space is limited.  Using an IEC connector with a fuse is impossible without simplifying the options/goals.  With a smaller IEC connector it may work.  The RPS-200-24 has two internal fuses, so a third in the IEC isn't necessarily required.  Chassis space may also be tight.  There is the possibilty of making it fit but it could sacrifice some of the modular aspect.  With no space for a lot of cable connectors that allow quick plugging or unplugging.  The controller board needs to be able to be connected/disconnected.  The rest, not so much.  The positive with this PSU is that there is some space on the side for some wiring and connectors, depending on how big they are.

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Large Chassis Approach: (using a larger enclosure with a bigger PSU)

PSU - Meanwell RPS-300-24 (300W fan cooled, 200W passive cooled) - Datasheet
Chassis Size - Haven't got that far yet, because a smaller enclosure is preferred at this stage.  But for this PSU, height needs to be 45-50mm or more.

Problems - There are likely enclosures out there that could work, or even a 3D printed enclosure.  The main advantage would be more rear panel space for connectors and more headroom, but the PSU seems overkill and everything else is a disadvantage.  Also, the 300W version has a built in 5V standby circuit, and I'm unfamiliar with how this would work, and if it would require more space or wiring.

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Attached below is what I have so far in terms of trying to size everything for a small chassis approach.  Trying to keep it properly scaled to get an accurate idea of what space there actually will be.  The rear panel is unknown, I haven't had time to look at different IEC connectors yet to see what may or may not fit.

I will try to use this thread as a progress log, tracking if there is a problem or a solution that works well or not.  It's been many years since doing anything like this, so I'm mainly doing it as a bit of fun and to learn.  I haven't committed to doing it yet, it's in the planning stage.  There are many simpler options.  But it can also be fun to push the limits and see what is possible.

[Swake]

Time for an upgrade here too.
At first I wanted a T3A (or T3B or T320) till I noticed the debacle with the cycling and noisy power supply, the earth connection problem, the glued front, failing capacitors, heavy overshoot in several situations and firmware updates dangerously hiding the reality. All this was a bit too much. The T420 or T420D looked promising with the classic transformer till you search a bit and read the firmware release information and you understand it has many issues too. As all this is closed source you can't take action yourself.

- Use a robust power supply that should be rock solid for many years, and free from any concerns like heatsinks sitting on top of high voltage traces, lack of fuses etc.

- Your best option for this is a classic transformer. Not much that can go wrong with these. You might want to rectify but no need for big capacitors, soldering irons are resistances and these don't care about the current being AC or DC. You also have the guarantee that it is 100% isolated from the mains. Nothing that can cause the fiasco that is happening with the T3A; T3B or 320 currently.
- Another option is using a big 19V DC laptop power supply, 90W or 100W. Plenty of second hand stuff available for really cheap out there. If you choose a known brand it will be certified too. No problems with isolation and reduced risk to burn the house down. Unlike the crap in the T3A or T3B.

- An external 24V output for Pine64 Pinecil V2 or Miniware TS101.

Keep it simple and reliable. Complexity is your enemy here. If you really need this buy a separate power supply.

- Rear mounted heater GX12 connection.

You mean the kind of aviation connector, right? Beware these are limited to 5 amps. Not sure if it is for all sizes.

And having the handle and stand fit properly in the stand for both C245 and T12.  C210 will be tough,

The Aixun handle is nice... kinda expensive. 2 irons = 2 handles.

- The enclosure to have enough weight so that it is stable on the desk and doesn't wobble around.

A transformer is the answer again...

- General stability and reliability, free of any glitches or bugs etc.

That is a good old analog Weller WES51. Anything with a CPU will require maintenance sooner or later....

- Potentially other useful features.

- 3 buttons for quick access memories
- relay output to switch on an extractor
- 2 channels
- sleep (100°C) and deep sleep (off) mode
- fancy color screen
- USB connector for firmware updates


t12-t245-controllers-docs: https://github.com/dreamcat4/t12-t245-controllers-docs/tree/master
Reverse engineered schematics for the T3A: https://github.com/c0d3z3r0/aixun_t3a_rev/tree/master/schematics

[elektryk]

Hi, I've got similiar plans. At this time I've got custom board with Dave's firmware powered with 120W notebook power supply that was modified to 24V output voltage.
After some disappointment with T12 stands and handles compatability I'd like to try T245 handle.
Can somebody confirm if T210, T245 and T470 stands from different manufacturers are compatible?

I think that T3A/T3B stand (new type) looks nice but is it the best at its price?

[Jono434]

The cheap T3A stand will work fine.  The more expensive stand works too, it's a preference thing.  They both work, it's literally just connecting the tip of the iron to ground.. they all work.  You could even use an alligator clip on a station that doesn't have a rear banana jack connection, as long as it's touching bare metal and not anodisation of the metal.  For testing purposes, I'm using the cheap T3A stand for now.. and will worry about other options later on.

[Jono434]

Time for an upgrade here too.

Sorry, I missed this post.  I will come back to it, when I have more time.  A lot of good info there.

[Swake]

Went for the Aixun T420D after all. It has some imperfections but it is nice and feels like it is made out of good quality material.
The C450 and C115 irons are ok, however the C210 is acting up. Hope it is an issue with the cartridge and nothing else.

[wildstar87]

I'm currently reading through a lot of the KSGER/Quicko threads, but what I'm not seeing so far, is an open source PCB, that corrects the common issues with these stations, while keeping compatibility with them, which would allow it to be used with DavidAlfa's open source firmware.

Yes there are workarounds for a lot of these, but it all depends on which version you get, which seems to be a crapshoot.  Having a known good PCB design, that would be preferred.  I'm actually surprised with all the DIY soldering projects that I haven't seen something like this.

One thing on my wishlist, is to be able to actually interface with a desoldering gun, such as the ones used with the ZD-915, or possibly the Yihua 948D.  There seemed to be some functionality built into some of the revisions of the boards, but I haven't thus far seen anyone talking about actually modifying for use, with any gun yet, with the assumption/acknowledgement that you have to create your own vacuum pump interface.

There is also currently a fairly inexpensive T12 based tweezer on Aliexpress, that would be good to support.  https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805051490037.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.591838daymPzIq&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

[elektryk]

The cheap T3A stand will work fine.  The more expensive stand works too, it's a preference thing.  They both work, it's literally just connecting the tip of the iron to ground.. they all work.  You could even use an alligator clip on a station that doesn't have a rear banana jack connection, as long as it's touching bare metal and not anodisation of the metal.  For testing purposes, I'm using the cheap T3A stand for now.. and will worry about other options later on.

For the testing purposes I use DIY stand made from scrap and yes, it is connected to the wake pin with the clip.

Went for the Aixun T420D after all. It has some imperfections but it is nice and feels like it is made out of good quality material.
The C450 and C115 irons are ok, however the C210 is acting up. Hope it is an issue with the cartridge and nothing else.

Do you have "grey stand" with the rear 6 pin connector? Are there any screws to acces connections inside the stand?

Btw my controller while testing.

[Swake]

Do you have "grey stand" with the rear 6 pin connector? Are there any screws to acces connections inside the stand?

1 grey stand on each side. There is a 'left' and a 'right' version of those stands. There are 4 rubber feet glued on the bottom and I would think there are screws under them. Sorry, not going to remove a foot to check. Worst case the bottom is clicked on, it certainly does not look like it is glued in.

[totalnoob]

I'm currently reading through a lot of the KSGER/Quicko threads, but what I'm not seeing so far, is an open source PCB, that corrects the common issues with these stations, while keeping compatibility with them, which would allow it to be used with DavidAlfa's open source firmware.

Yes there are workarounds for a lot of these, but it all depends on which version you get, which seems to be a crapshoot.  Having a known good PCB design, that would be preferred.  I'm actually surprised with all the DIY soldering projects that I haven't seen something like this.

That was the dream. I think the fact that Dave's CFW works with so many of the different brands kind of minimized the need for that. I'd like to see said open source PCB to include a way to more easily switch between the different handles, perhaps jumpers could be the way to make it work so that traces don't have to be cut or a resistor removed in order to use a C245 handle. A better solution would be some kind of switch to allow changing between handles without having to open up the station to change jumpers.

[Swake]

Is that connector used on the Aixun stations actually a real 6-pin DIN connector or something very similar but different? It has a locking mechanism.
I'd like to build a switch to swap between several irons, keeping the original connectors on the irons.

[Jono434]

Went for the Aixun T420D after all. It has some imperfections but it is nice and feels like it is made out of good quality material.
The C450 and C115 irons are ok, however the C210 is acting up. Hope it is an issue with the cartridge and nothing else.

It will be interesting to hear how the Aixun T420D pans out.   

I'm not sure about the connectors for Aixun.  I've seen the Aixun handle connectors switched out for panel mount GX12 connectors on DIY stations, but not sure about the actual handles that on official Aixun stations.  The beauty of these cheaper Chinese options is how cheap they are and how easier is to swap things out.  It allows a lot of room for experimentation.

[Jono434]

When I first created this thread, I was focussed on DIY but since then my focus has shifted to KSGER station since I bought this during Black Friday sales.  I am still open to doing a DIY chassis, but I think it's good to gain some real world experience with the controller before deciding if a different enclosure or ahigher wattage power supply is worth it.  Either way, I am getting to learn more about David's Custom Firmware and understand the controller board more.

There are a lot of options, it seems to be based on preferences or what your goals are.  There are many handles, many stands, many controllers and they are all pretty cheap.  Like the other comments said, none of them are perfect and it can be a bit of a crapshoot.  Jumpers and things like this, or a new PCB that can make everything work together would be a great idea if someone with the skills was able to do that.

If the KSGER power supply ends up being reliable, I might just use it for a few months and see how it goes.  I am still going to be adding a 24V output on the rear panel to power small portable irons like Pinecil.   I am also going to be mounting the handle connector on the rear.  There will be a push button to turn the display on and off on the front.  The enclosure is small but everything should fit.  For long term reliability I do think a Meanwell PSU is better, but there are also other options to explore like mentioned by Swake.  I have been running David's custom firmware in the last few days without a handle wired up and so far it is good.  I like that you can program things like tip settings or settings preferences into the settings.c file, and flash that onto the chip.  There is also GUI customization that is possible.

The station and the panel is very small.  This can be a good thing or a bad thing.   Less desk space required but harder to read.  A larger panel is an advantage for Aixun stations, and less work is required.  I am happy for others to use this thread to discuss any of these options, and one day I might return to the DIY power supply side of things.  In the meantime, I'm just trying to gain experience with the controller board.

My current plan for KSGER is..

Front Panel -

12mm Push Button for Display On/Off (so that the PSU can be used to power a portable iron or another station with display off)
2mm Power LED for PSU

Rear Panel -

24V Out DC2.5mm
Rear mounted GX12 connector with 2.54mm VH connectors
Banana Jack for Stand
Ground Hex Screw or Banana Jack for grounding wrist band (whatever fits better)

If I did a second chassis, it would be for 12V.  It wouldn't have an internal PSU, it would have a large wattage buck converter and could be daisy chained, so that the 24V out from the first chassis could power the second chassis (stacked on top of it).   It would be nice to have a 12V out, and a 9V out if space permitted.

A DIY Meanwell PSU version of this could accomplish the same thing, and it could be more reliable in the long term.. but it also costs more and requires a slightly larger chassis length.  If a cap blows or a MOSFET fails in the KSGER PSU, the choice will become easier.

[elektryk]

Sorry, not going to remove a foot to check.

Thanks, that's not a problem.
It looks like it should be possible based on this https://www.hackster.io/sfrwmaker/soldering-and-rework-station-for-t12-and-jbc-tips-ec2c44

Is that connector used on the Aixun stations actually a real 6-pin DIN connector or something very similar but different? It has a locking mechanism.

Isn't it Hirose RPC1-12RB-6P(71) connector?

Jumpers and things like this, or a new PCB that can make everything work together would be a great idea if someone with the skills was able to do that.

You don't need jumpers inside the station if you use 5 pin connector or even better 6 pin.

[elektryk]

Another idea for stand, has anyone tried it?

[elektryk]

Mentioned stand looks good. It is made from die cast aluminium, thanks to this, it has the appropriate weight and is rather stable.
The only disadvantage is that they populated only 6pin RPC connector and there's a lack of 7 pin one, but there should fit any 18mm outer diameter connector.
In this variant they provide cable with crocodille clip but there's also much more expensive versions with interconnection cable and 7 pin connector populated.