Author Topic: Fluke 732A - ripple on output  (Read 25080 times)

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Online dietert1

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Re: Fluke 732A - ripple on output
« Reply #25 on: April 01, 2024, 06:47:55 am »
The PCB comes in for the output filter (resistor and capacitor). By the way did you read the values?
Also there is an idea behind connecting some wires to the socket body at its end and others near to where the banana plug would sit (via nut, washer and PCB). I'd guess the minus socket was reworked by somebody else and the plus socket shows the original design. The lacquer onto nut and washer wasn't the best idea.
But then again: How old is that device? 20 years?

Regards, Dieter
 

Offline RaxTopic starter

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Re: Fluke 732A - ripple on output
« Reply #26 on: April 01, 2024, 01:55:16 pm »
But then again: How old is that device? 20 years?

Regards, Dieter

The first manual for the 732A is dated 1983, while the newer one 1986. The 732B manual is dated 1992.
 

Offline RaxTopic starter

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Re: Fluke 732A - ripple on output
« Reply #27 on: April 03, 2024, 12:58:39 am »
I've retightened the nut on the HI jack, and I think this is probably the last of the problems this thing has.

It'd take a while to collect the data harvested and plot it as I've done before, but the behavior after resoldering that pad wasn't very great. But then I went ahead and tightened that nut - got the correct size wrench, and used a desoldering tool to pin the hole in the post and keep it in place to ever so gently tighten it - and I feel this is possibly finally behaving at it should (should it live by its name  :box:).

I feel this is honing into the remaining issue. After this retightening, there are variations of less than 1ppm (which could all be due to the meter, garage tempco, and maybe my neighbors and their landscapers), while just before I was seeing fluctuations in the several ppm range.

My plan is to go back in there and drop a minimalistic drop of deoxit on the thread of the screw - I don't think I can achieve satisfactory access to the nut/washer/pad interfaces due to the coating - and hope it'd capillary seep onto the contact surfaces and make them work well in all "handling" and "traveling" and "operational" situations.

Any reason I should avoid using deoxit in a high end, low-emf situation such as this? I'd appreciate thoughts on this, as I don't want to compromise my voltage reference at the end of a saga due to some chemical no-no I'm not aware of.
 


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