Replacing the internal fuse of a Fluke 8842A DMM

[jafasi]

Hi,
I got myself a Fluke 8842A on ebay and it seems to work fine except for the current measurement. So it turned out that the internal fuse is blown (not the one directly accessible from the 2Amps connector). The service manual says it should be "600 V / 3 A slow-blow", but the blown fuse itself reads "BUSS BBS3" (and looks similar to https://xdevs.com/fix/f8842a/). However, the data sheet says it is a fast-acting fuse.

Since these fuses are expensive and not so easy to get, I wonder which is the correct choice?

I appreciate your help...

[Nusa]

If the factory spec is 600V/3A slow, that's presumably correct by definition.
What you find in the meter may not be original, but the only difference is that 600V/3A fast will blow faster.
In this case, I'm going to say either choice is acceptable to protect the meter. Availability and/or cost may decide the matter for you.
Fuses last forever, until you screw up. Then you're glad you had one.

[jafasi]

Sure. I actually preferred the slow fuse and assumed it to be okay (it is in series with the fast fuse directly at the input connector anyway) but got confused by the fact that both my meter and the one in the blog post to which I linked had the fast fuse...
Thanks for your advise!

[t1d]

Please know that the special fuses used in better multimeters are counterfeited at a very high rate. And, their prices are marked up, to boot. So, you can just about forget about ordering them off Ebay, Amazon, etc... You need to buy from a vendor that is an authorized distributor of the fuse... Check their website for the list. This is not necessarily the maker of the multimeter... The big component houses, Mouser, Digikey, etc., should be alright, but their prices are high, on these fuses. I found a greatly better price, from my local parts house, that also sells multimeters... I had to really search for the best price, but I saved 2/3rds.