Quick 861DW 240V to 110V Conversion Questions

[jamiec]

Hi,

I have been quarrelling with converting my 110V Quick 861DW to 240V.
I was wondering if anyone has attempted this?
I was living in Japan for a year and needed a Rework Station, I purchased one and then 2 weeks later I needed to move back to the UK.
I have looked online and I can buy a replacement heating element (Quick H616A) and either replace the transformer or rewind it for 240V.

It looks to me all the Input Filters are rated for 240V AC and its only the Heating Element and Transformer that's on the Mains Input.

If anyone has attempted, please let me know.

I know I can buy another one but this one is technically junk in the UK as no one will buy it and to ship abroad is more expensive.
So if I can salvage it and use it, then it will save it going to waste.

Have a nice day!

Thanks
Jamie


UPDATE: I have actually been able to successfully convert the 110V Model to 240V. I will post some photos of before and after once I have used it for a few days.

[m3vuv]

i had a similar with a heath oscilloscope,it was on 110 and no 240v tap,i brought a cheapo chineese voltage transfo from ebay,it was 100va ,cost about 6 quid,when it came i took it out of its plastic case nd mounted in a shielded tin then ran the original transformer from that link:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100W-110V-120V-to-220V-240V-Step-Up-or-Down-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-UK/192748327985?hash=item2ce0b21431:g:SG0AAOSwX0dbzv98

[wraper]

You will need to replace the transformer which is powering electronics and replace heater with 230V version. I don't know how zero cross detection is made. If it takes signal after transformer, you likely won't need any other modifications. If it uses optocoupler, you might need to replace a few components on primary side. Or it might even not have zero-cross detection at all and just use zero-cross optocoupler like MOC3061 to drive triac and not care about sync with mains frequency.

[wraper]

If you cannot find suitable replacement transformer and as there is quite a lot free space inside, you could just buy cheap low power 230V-110V converter (usually rated for 45VA). Remove autotransformer out from it, put it inside the station and power it's transformer from it.

[m3vuv]

read my previous post!

[jamiec]

Hi,
Thanks for your replies!
I have done some digging and have been able to find a suitable Transformer and Heating element.
When I open the 861DW the transformer shows dual output of 10V and 30V, so I managed to get one that's being shipped from China.

I will document my findings along the way, it does use a Triac (or similar) to control the Heating Element but this is rated for 275V AC, the Filter on the Input is also rated 240VAC so it looks like changing the transformer and heating element should work. I assume they make these modular, so its easier in the factory.

I will post Photos and document it once I get the parts in a few weeks. Even if it goes wrong, it may help someone.

Thanks
Jamie

[wraper]

When I open the 861DW the transformer shows dual output of 10V and 30V

Are you sure about that? Transformer in mine is marked with 10V and 23V windings.

[wraper]

it does use a Triac (or similar) to control the Heating Element but this is rated for 275V AC

Seems you just read marking on X safety capacitor. Triac is located on a heatsink. And it certainly does not have voltage rating printed on it. Circuit uses MOC3041 optotriac to drive it. It does include zero-cross functionality. So it's a good hint there might be no zero-cross circuit on mains voltage side which I was concerned about.

[jamiec]

Hi,

Of course the voltage is 10V and 23V, I was just going from memory as the Transformer I was looking has a 30V tap too.

I managed to find a Transformer on Aliexpress that has 30V 0.3A, 24V 0.55A and 10V 0.3A.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32933762833.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.34964c4dZ4Y9L4
I assumed 1V difference wouldn't do any harm and should be within tolerance.
The triac model in mine is an ST BTA41600B rated VDRM/VRRM 600/800V  and the Capacitor is rated 275VAC.

I am not sure if there is anything else I have missed, what do you think?

EDIT: I Forgot to add that my unit also has the ON MOC3041 which on the data sheet does state its for 115VAC Applications.
I assume this makes it much more tricky to convert and is not just swapping out that Optocoupler

I took the PCB out and it appears to be the following components:
C9: 275V WMEC MPX 0.1K
R4: 001 Resistor
R2: 331 Resistor
U1: ON MOC3041
R9: 331 Resistor
Q1: ST BTA41600B

If I could get a board scan or someone to show those parts from a 230V Version, then I should be able to replace them no problem.

Thanks for your help,

Kind Regards
Jamie

[jamiec]

I had a look over Daves review of the Quick 861DW and he did pan into a section. His model will be the 230V Version and although is board has through hole resistors, it appears to be the same optocoupler as mine.

The Triac is also an identical part from Daves Video.

[jamiec]

I just wanted to give everyone an update, I managed to convert the 110V to 240V Version.
I will post some photos and links in the upcoming few days once I have used it more, however it all seems to work fine with a few minutes testing.

Thanks,
Jamie

[pickleit]

Hi jamiec

What parts did you have to replace in the end?

Thanks

David

[thomasx]

Hi jamiec

I want to do the exact same conversion you did.

What changes did you make and how did it work out in the end?

Thanks!

[thomasx]

BTW, please note that MOC3031 is for 115VAC and MOC3041 is for 240VAC, see data sheet below.

My 110V unit has the MOC3041, so should work with 240VAC I think.

The interesting thing now is if the 110V heating element can be re-wired into a 220V device Looks tricky.

I guess in my case I'll add a small 220V - 110V transformer and replace the 110V heater with a 220V and that should do the trick.

https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/moc3043m-d.pdf