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Hello eas. It looks to be a pristine model 2000. I finished checking it out. Frequency counting works. Temperature measurement works. So, I am happy to have it in the collection.
I never use RS232 when controlling an instrument for my own amusement. I bought a KUSB-488B used last year for $200. I also bout two generic GPIB cables.
At some point I will take off the cover and inspect for capacitor leakage. Not sure if it is possible to see leakage without removing a capacitor.
Added firmware A13 files, thanks!
I've ordered a new ADM202 and some EEPROM chips. I want to fix the RS-232 and upgrade to A20. Thankfully I have a willing colleague with a cal lab at my job.
I've ordered a new ADM202 and some EEPROM chips. I want to fix the RS-232 and upgrade to A20. Thankfully I have a willing colleague with a cal lab at my job.
*jealous* I am looking for a place to calibrate some or all of my gear.
Managed to get few thermal images of K2000 guts (way more on images link).
Few parts heating up abnormally, so it's not 100% fixed/functional unit just yet, even tho it can measure signals quite accurate.
Sometimes still go wacky measuring resistance.
Got replacement switch, yey!
The screws that hold the case on these, two countersunk ones under the case, do anyone know the dimensions?
It looks like M3 screws, but I wonder if the threading isn't metric but imperial (or what it's called), I don't want to force m3 screws into it, if it's wrong....
And, the handle for this ting (I have the 2015, but I guess it's same as 2000?), how does it look like, and how is it attached to the body?, I first thought it was similar thing as the handles for Agilent meters, but it's an big open area on each side of the meter, not at all similar to the agilent meters.
just curious, does anyone replace the tantalum caps as well when doing a fresh run of capacitor replacement? (there is 6x 7343 and 11x 3528 SMD, i am "renewing" a used K2015).
Unless they are blown from voltage/current spike, they rarely fail. There is no liquid to get out from them. I keep them original, if visually they are looking good.
tnx for the tip and the useful information in xdev.com
Can someone do me a real solid and measure the length, diameter, and thread pitch of the rear bezel screws? I'm trying to avoid paying $22 for a set of screws from Tektronix.
Can someone do me a real solid and measure the length, diameter, and thread pitch of the rear bezel screws? I'm trying to avoid paying $22 for a set of screws from Tektronix.
quick measure using a caliper (mm). but i think this maybe a "inch" based screw due to the threads.
length tip to tip =13.5mm
unthreaded portion = 6mm (diam 2.55mm)
threaded portion =5mm (diam 3.55mm)
the threads when compared to a HDD screw fit on each other nicely, so i have to say its a 6-32 thread
**edit : after an alcohol bath ... the old used K2015 is now all shiny
Can someone do me a real solid and measure the length, diameter, and thread pitch of the rear bezel screws? I'm trying to avoid paying $22 for a set of screws from Tektronix. [emoji14]alm:
quick measure using a caliper (mm). but i think this is a "inch" based screw due to the threads.
length tip to tip =13.5mm
unthreaded portion = 6mm (diam 2.55mm)
threaded portion =5mm (diam 3.55mm)
the threads when compared to a HDD screw fit on each other nicely, so i have to say its a 6-32 thread
Awesome, thanks a ton!
I think worst case, I can use a normal screw of the correct length and either grind off a portion of the threads or leave it as is.
Well, time has come, I might do some work on this poor abandoned 2000. Got also 1L of hydrogen peroxide from cosmetics shop to try whitening panel. It's like a cream consistency, should be easier to apply on surfaces, as I don't want just to dip everything into liquid.
Now need just to have sun come out.
As you are in Taiwan simply go to the harbour and find a mercury vapour fishing light and fitting. 400W mercury lamp will give out quite enough UV to do the job.
And also plenty of unhealthy ozone and health risks.
I would not suggest operating 400W UV lamp anyone without very clear understanding of possible hazards.
Also harbour is somewhat far, so I'd rather just hold to a sun.
Hmm... so we're going to see TiN with a suicide blonde mop of hair and a nice all over tan?
My 2000 could do with that de-yellowing treatment too. Watching thread...
Not UV lamp just a regular coated MV lamp. Will give enough UV to do the bleaching, but not enough to cause you damage, as the glass and phosphor will absorb most of it. just provides a lot of bluish light, though a clear UV lamp or a UV fluorescent disco lamp would also work.
Would the type of UV lamps in a PCB exposure box work? Because they didn't do a thing for me when trying to erase some EEPROMs.
It looks like a fluorescent UV Light Tube should work.
Look here:
How to fix yellowed plastics on old computers!
Only question is, where to get this type and concentration of hydrogen peroxide creme in Germany?
Would be nice to try on my Keithley 2400
I've heard it's only temporary - but the temporary is in the order of years. Indeed, much like the original equipment!
It doesn't seem to onerous to give the bezels this kind of treatment every few years - I mean, if you are the tidy sort you would probably remove bezels to get at all the crumbs, grease, (tar & nicotine if you are so inclined) and other environmental crap, take the opportunity to clean the switches and touchpads even on modern gear after a few years of use.
...and if you were planning on sporting a shocking blonde hairstyle and gorgeous bronzed body anyway, then the visit to the beauty parlour to obtain the chemical stuff is neither here nor there
TiN,
Be careful not to rub the silkscreen writing or logos after soaking in the hydrogen peroxide. They won't get bleached, but they will be softened to the extent that any rubbing can remove them (don't ask me how I know
). After drying, they will harden up again.
To others: the type of hydrogen peroxide commonly used for this is usually bought from a beauty supply shop, where they sell salon supplies like hair dyes, waxing supplies, etc. I use "40 vol" concentration, quite strong.