Electrolux ESF 2410 dishwasher randomly tripping breaker

[agent_power]

Hi all

I've got this dishwasher that I bought used for cheap. It worked for the past 4 years without problems but lately it's having some issues.

During a wash cycle there was a loud pop which tripped the breaker. I let it sit for few minutes, turned it back on and then it continued to work.

Few weeks later today it tripped the breaker again, I decided to have a look inside.

The inside condition of the dishwasher isn't too great. Some part of the rinseaid dispensing is leaky and it oxidised part of the bottom plate, some screws are rusting and some parts are a bit moldy inside.

I can't find the proper service info for my model. This is the closest probably https://elektrotanya.com/electrolux_esf_2410_dishwaser.zip/download.html

Since I don't know anything about dishwashers, do you have any ideas what could cause a loud pop, but then it still not failing catastrophically but continuing to work?

Thanks

[themadhippy]

do you have any ideas what could cause a loud pop, but then it still not failing catastrophically but continuing to work?

could be a short thats being "blown " clear,possible something leaking were it shouldnt

[Stray Electron]

   It sounds like your dish washer has a leak and that is what is popping the breaker. But after it sits for a bit the water dries up so the washer starts working again. You're going to have to find the leak and fix it.  My old (non-Electrolux) dish washer had some plastic hoses that developed pin holes holes in them and I had to replace them.  IIRC they weren't very expensive but most of them were molded into shape so I had to use OEM style hoses. The second time that it leaked the water got onto an unprotected circuit board and completely blew it up so I had to replace the washer.

  My dish washer was hard wired to the AC power but I pulled it in and out so much that I got tired of disconnecting the wiring terminals so I finally put a 220 VAC outlet on the wall behind it and put a 220 V plug on a SO gauge power cable going to the dish washer so that I could just unplug it and pull it out from under the counter.  I also replaced the cheap plastic incoming water line with a braided steel hose that was long enough to allow me to pull the washer out far enough to work on it.

  One other thing in case you haven't discovered it yet; in all of the dishwashers that I've dealt with there is an electrically controlled valve that turns on the water flow when energized. So if the breaker pops, the valve will close and that will shut off the water to the dishwasher so that probably explains why you can restart your washer after letting it sit. i.e. after you let your washer sit for a while the water dries up and removes the power short and you can reset your circuit breaker and why you are able to restart your dishwasher and it will run normally; until the water starts leaking again and the entire process repeats.

[agent_power]

Hi all

Thanks for your tips. I managed to get to (the literal) bottom of it. It looks like the EMI capacitor blew its guts... it has two sections, which would explain the second pop ?

There is a styrofoam thing with a switch, I guess it the dishwasher would spring a major leak it would trip this and shut down.

Any ideas what I could replace the capacitor with?

[indeterminate]

Have a look for an appliancespares retailer , or just type the part number into your search engine.

[perieanuo]

just remove that crap and live happily, one good current/differential disjunctor is all you need. br

[agent_power]

What are the implication of not replacing it in the context of a dishwasher? And what's a current/differential disjunctor? Do you mean the house's ground fault breaker?

I found the original part but it's really expensive: https://fixpart.ch/it/prodotto/electrolux-aeg-1551263021-soppressore-di-interferenze

On eBay there's other Miflex filters but they don't have the 1 MOhm resistor across and I don't know if they match the amperage rating of the machine (close to 6A nominal/peak)

[Stray Electron]

   Does the styrofoam mover or is it firmly fixed in place?  If it moves then I'm going to hazard a guess and say that that thing with the styrofoam is some sort of microswitch and the styrofoam is some kind of float and it's designed to operate the switch when the water reaches a certain height. But I can't tell from just the pictures what it's used for.  If the styrofoam doesn't move then it's probably just a sound absorbing material and something else operates the switch.

   Look up "lever type microswitch" to see if it looks like the same thing. 

[indeterminate]

That price is ridicules
The 1 MOhm is only there to guarantee that the cap has no residual charge, the other ones that you found will be fine they don't have a current rating only a voltage and capacitance values.

[agent_power]

   Does the styrofoam mover or is it firmly fixed in place?  If it moves then I'm going to hazard a guess and say that that thing with the styrofoam is some sort of microswitch and the styrofoam is some kind of float and it's designed to operate the switch when the water reaches a certain height. But I can't tell from just the pictures what it's used for.  If the styrofoam doesn't move then it's probably just a sound absorbing material and something else operates the switch.

   Look up "lever type microswitch" to see if it looks like the same thing. 

The styrofoam sits in the grey frame but can move freely.. you're right it's designed to stop the dishwasher in case water leaks into this small recession on the base plate

That price is ridicules
The 1 MOhm is only there to guarantee that the cap has no residual charge, the other ones that you found will be fine they don't have a current rating only a voltage and capacitance values.

Ok thanks... I agree the price is exaggerated for an EMI cap. I'll order one of these MIFLEX KSPPZ-10-2 off eBay

[Seekonk]

Tell the EMI Police to get a warrant if they show up at the door.

My wife wanted a dishwasher.  Apparently saying I thought I married one was an incorrect answer.  So, I went to the town dump.  Not as bad as you think. This was for an off grid cabin with minimal battery and it would have to be modified.  At recycling a pickup had a new looking one being dropped off. Guy from apartment complex said it was 1 1/2 years old and stopped working two days ago after lightning storm, warrantee doesn't cover that.  Opened it up and all the EMI stuff was blown to bits.  I cut that stuff out and jumpered what I had to. Who needs that stuff.  In five minutes, it was fixed. The heater leads now control a relay and the solar panel array DC powers the heating element with a power point controller. Washer without the heater only draws 85W max. 

[Haenk]

Who needs that stuff.

You still have a motor and selenoids in there, which will produce nice line noise crap. If that part would not be necessary, they certainly left it out 50 years ago. (They are even trying to reduce screw count, just to save a cent.)