Hakko FX-888D Heating Element Replacement Tips

[t1d]

Hakko FX-888D Heating Element Replacement Tips
This process has some dangers. Do not attempt it, unless you have the proper skills and tools. I accept no liability for any loss, or harm.
Yes, I know that it takes a soldering iron to do this repair. And, it contains tips for repairing a tip. What else you got? 

I found the whole process of replacing the heating element to be a little fiddly. But, I am not so young anymore. Here is the procedure that I used to make things go more smoothly; the tips are intended to supplement the instructions that come with the replacement element, not replace those instructions. So, read them before beginning and keep the pamphlet at hand.

1) Cut the old element’s wires, before desoldering them, to keep them from being a heat sink and to give better access for the soldering iron tip. Remove the heating element, save the white insulation tube for some future project and properly dispose of the old element.
2) Secure the extra tiny wires out of the way to prevent melting them. I used a toothless alligator clip.
3) Desolder the remaining wire bits.
4) On the new heating element, slide the red and blue wire covers forward until they cover their lead wires completely. Super-Glue these in place.
5) Slide the white insulation tube forward until its PCB board end is 64mm from the tip end of the heating element. See the instructions. The cover may not be over the heating element, so Super-Glue it to the red and blue covers.
6) Slide the heating element assembly into the spring, before soldering. Divide the red wires from the blue wires with the PCB board. Be mindful to put their colors on the proper side of the board.
7) Insert the red wires into their pad holes. Adjust their length so that the white insulation tube abuts the PCB. Double check that the tip end of the heating element will be 64mm from the end of the PCB.
8 Solder the red wires, now, before you insert the blue wires into their pad holes, because the blue wires will be on top of the red wires’ soldering pads. Clinch the wires down hard against the PCB, to prevent them from piercing the blue wires. Clean the top of the PCB, now, because the blue wires will prevent access for this operation, too.
9) Insert the blue wires into their pad holes and solder. Clean this side of the PCB.
10) Test the assembly for dead shorts, with a multimeter. Also test all resistances, per the instructions.

I hope this helps and that you are successful. Happy soldering!

[a1321]

I am sorry if replying in this old thread is unappropriated.

Before ordering some replacement heating elements (A1322), I would like to know if I can solder the 4 wire of the heater. From what I know, the material of 2 wires for heating is nichrome, of 2 others for thermocouple (assuming that the element is a knock-off Chinese) are chromel-alumel. From what I read, chromel may be wetted with solder but nichrome and alumel are not so.

Thanks all for your help.

[t1d]

I am sorry if replying in this old thread is unappropriated.

The time that has passed is no problem for me. You have no need to worry. But, thank you for being so considerate.

Before ordering some replacement heating elements (A1322), I would like to know if I can solder the 4 wire of the heater. From what I know, the material of 2 wires for heating is nichrome, of 2 others for thermocouple (assuming that the element is a knock-off Chinese) are chromel-alumel. From what I read, chromel may be wetted with solder but nichrome and alumel are not so.

The new heating element should come with lead wires already attached to the internal heating wires and thermocouple. You will only be soldering the leads to the PCB board that is inside the soldering iron handle.

You might want to disassemble your soldering iron handle, before you order your parts, for two reasons:
1) To get an understanding of how it is assembled and what you will have to do to replace the part. It is fairly clear, if you will give it a very close inspection.
2) To see the type and number of wires that are attached to the board. This will help you in identifying the correct element to order. Be sure to order an element that has the same number of wires and the same type of internal thermocouple. You will be able to see the wires in the pictures of the new element. But, for the type of the internal thermocouple, you will have to read the description closely.

I suggest that you go to the extra expense to order a genuine Hakko element. The cheap types are fakes that overstate their wattage rating and lie about the type of thermocouple.

Read up on the types of soldering iron thermocouples. You will find that there are two major types.

I hope that helps. Please post about the progress of your project.

[a1321]

Thank you very much for your kind reply, t1d. Have a good time here.
I guess that the hardest part is already make easier by you.

I am considering the plan B of ordering nichrome wire and wound the heating element myself. If avail, I may try Kanthal wire. I guess that there is still some secrets to make a durable and fast heater in a very small heating rod that Hakko is hiding from us.

[t1d]

While I like your spirit to make something yourself, I do not think that you are going to end up with a product that works well with the Hakko station. It has sensors that are looking for certain signals and you are not going to be able to replicate those signals. Additionally, the wire wrapping will prevent the element from fitting into the tip. I suggest that you repair your iron with an original tip and, then, look for a homemade soldering iron station to build, for your interest in how they operate.