Hi!
Remove and test CR11, if you're not sure then a DMM will do, as follows:–
a) Connect the BLACK lead of your DMM to the (+) terminal on the rectifier CR11, then switch the DMM to "diode–test" mode (marked with an arrow symbol), then touch the RED lead on the other legs, you should get a short "beep" and a reading of 0.5 to 0.6 on TWO other rectifier leads, they will be marked "AC" or a squiggle;
b) Now transfer your RED DMM lead to the (–) terminal of the rectifier, and touch the BLACK lead of the DMM on the other three leads, again expect a short beep and a reading of 0.5 to 0.6 with TWO of the other leads only!
No beep at all or a continuous beep and a zero reading when you connect the DMM leads as explained above means the rectifier unit is u/s, bin it and get a new one, the type no. Is on the circuit diagram!
If the rectifier passes tests a) and b) above test ACROSS P8 and P9 from the transformer, this time you should get a continuous beep and a very low reading, less than 0.1, on your DMM.
No reading between P8 and P9 indicates faulty wiring or the transformer secondary feeding P8/P9 and CR11 is defective!
Since you said the power supply works and gives an output above a certain setting and the display is ok, I think I can rule out a dead short across CR11's output for the moment, as a short across CR11 would almost certainly have blown a fuse!
Chris Williams