Can you tell me more about the blinking LED at low power?
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I have 6 of these F732A units and I have never see the "IN CAL" led blink. There is no circuitry in there to allow this to happen. The "IN CAL" led is latched on by shorting the LO to the RESET point. If the battery voltage drops below around 22 volts then the latch shuts off and the led cannot be turned on until you do the RESET. I set my "float" voltage across the batteries to be about 27.3 volts, as best as I can. BUT you have to wait for at least 24 hours after installing new batteries so that they can " top out" and get their full charge. I also set my trip point from constant current (charging) to constant voltage (floating) of the charging circuit to be 29.2 volts. This adjustment is very difficult to obtain accurately. So I just try to get it as close as possible, usually between 28.7 to 29.5 volts. But again this is with a battery pack that has been at constant voltage float for at least 24 hours. If you set the trip point to 31 volts there is a good chance that it will NEVER trip over from constant current to constant voltage and you will FRY the new batteries! DON'T USE THE PROCEDURE IN THE MANUAL TO SET THE TRIP POINT! It doesn't work. I just watch a DMM closely, pull the 732A AC power plug, plug it in again and try to capture the trip point visually, but the DMM I use has a MAX statistics math function so I just set the PLCs to 1 and then let the math do the job for me. The charging circuit will NOT go into constant current if you have pulled the battery pack and and then reinserted it. You then have to pull the AC power plug and then insert it to get into constant current mode.
I have one 732A where the 1.018 or 1 volt output is not correctable because the adjustment is out of range. I just don't worry about this because the 10 volt output is the critical one and that is the one you want to use. Going into the oven assembly is just NOT recommended unless you absolutely have to fix something! You are dealing with ribbon cables which can break off from the PC Board easily. I would sure stay away from that. I have gone into one to fix a problem, but I was VERY CAREFUL about what I was doing. If you need either of the lower voltage outputs use a Kelvin-Varley divider, F720A or equivalent, to get those voltages.
Bill