KaiDT -
usually you can get quite useful information even when probing components in-circuit. Of course, you should know what to expect and which are the common failure modes of components.
- probing resistors usually isn't a big deal. The test voltage of modern digital multimeters in resistance mode often isn't high enough to turn on silicon junctions. When in doubt, manually select a measurement range higher than what you would expect, this keeps the voltage drop across the resistor you're probing even lower (provided your multimeter uses a constant current approach to measure resistance which most of them do). If you measure a resistance higher than what you expect, the resistor is most probably shot (high capacitances with residual votages present may also cause this, but then you should see the reading drop slowly). Lower values may be the result of other resistive / inductive components arranged around the one you probe. Resistors virtually always fail open / intermittent / too high. In many cases they show scorch marks but that's not always the case.
- Capacitors are difficult to test properly in-circuit except for a short. Proper RLC bridges may provide some useful information but usually leave a lot room for interpretation, so considerable experience may be necessary here.
- Diodes and the junctions of transistors more often fail shorted than open, especially in case of power semiconductors. If they fail open, and the semiconductor is housed in a plastic casing, you can often see cracks or craters in the resin from the violent disintegration of the bonding wires. There are cases, though, where simply a bond connection inside a semiconductor enclosure fails which can be very difficult to identify and (from my own experience) always happen with "unobtainium" components
. Surprisingly, I've already come across several zener diodes in glass packages that failed open without any external traces to be found.
So, for example, if you use your DMM's diode test function to check the dual clamping diode in your SDG805 in-circuit, start with both diodes in conduction direction. If you find the expected 600...700mV forward threshold, you can already be 99% certain that the diode is still good. Blocking direction should show a higher voltage drop, but other semiconductors may interfere with that. Schottky diodes, especially the bigger, low-voltage ones, may almost appear like a short in conduction direction.
In your particular case, I would just replace U15 and test the generator again. SO8 ICs are easily removed by "drowning" one side in solder and while heating all four terminals, carefully liftig this side off the PCB by half a millimeter or so. Then, still heating the solder on this side, quickly slide a piece of thick (drawing) paper between the PCB and the IC's terminals. Now "drown" the other side of the IC in solder and lift it off the board with a pair of tweezers. After that, you only need to clean the PCB pads with some solder wick or a suction device. SO packages can still be soldered easily enough back in pin-by-pin.
Cheers,
Thomas