Can I use different amperage fuses for a blender?

[JT101]

Hello everyone

I have a small Kenwood blender with a thermal fuse that blew.

The specification is a pigtail ceramic 3NT 1.6A x 250V fuse.  The only one I could find is Schurter 8020.0516.PT

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Schurter/8020.0516.PT?qs=wYWahoWfBn9OGUlaTs9O0Q%3D%3D

This works out at £12.34 inc postage.  I could easily buy a new blender for that. 

I can much more easily find a 1.5A x 250V or 2A x 250V fuses on Ebay for a couple of pounds.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304416666061?itmmeta=01HY68JVTB36CPPF2TMYPA6DSD&hash=item46e0a5b1cd:g:Jo8AAOSwHYVaYc3S&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Bz8qAv6s%2FSSmt9cYc2PfYfwue6a9Oe9tw6cYoPl33BpjaEo2w9PkZ%2BY6efXnuy5dptoXgSw%2BAfihHZ3t7ArOYE8OxmaYohAIaVM5h25876ejTNifYje4kn4kTU7U%2BXyeotSFSGY5bAXv7tz7Asop2GR6oaVRkDEHjglQxeVl0xNoPObKylNNOCUuJVo0bRvtbwRwtYL7G8koQfSpUf09nx3AJKFCReVzHhrDArmotIby9%2BBoUZVwmIRlcqIHEHEebu6MJ9%2B%2BHhaBRC6EntM7pzqP3I%2FdYEwVgX4CMOkeaWQ%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrr3LyPFj

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300613000180?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Da45749495caf4d55a8d28acfe3e0db1f%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D126435783772%26itm%3D300613000180%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DPanasonic&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042



Could I use either of these safely, and if so what could happen?  I am assuming the 1.5A would simply blow sooner when the motor is overloaded, whereas the 2A might be less safe and allow the windings to overheat?

Thanks

[indeterminate]

Just use the 1.5A fuse
That is 360W , it is not going to blow unless there is a problem.

[fzabkar]

"1.5a Pico fuse 250v F1.5a 250v Axial Quick Blow Fast"

This fast fuse is not a suitable replacement for a thermal fuse.

[inse]

Please check what kind of fuse you need for your blender.
A thermal fuse that prevents overheating or a electrical fuse that prevents overcurrent.
Can you post a photo?

[amyk]

Just use the 1.5A fuse
That is 360W , it is not going to blow unless there is a problem.

You need a slow-blow fuse. Motors tend to have very high inrush currents.

Also, fuses are quite imprecise in general, so 1.6A vs 1.5A is unlikely to be a meaningful difference.

[JT101]

Here you go.  As I said, writing on fuse says "3NT 1.6A x 250V"

Any ideas where I can get a replacement cheaply

Thanks

[wasedadoc]

Thermal fuses are usually marked with a temperature not a current rating.  The fuse in the photo looks like a glass overcurrent one, not a thermal fuse. But the connection method, ie not soldered, is certainly what is needed for a thermal fuse.  Is there a possibility that an original thermal fuse has been replaced by an overcurrent one?

[Ian.M]

The O.P. has misidentified the thermal fuse location.   In the first photo there is a black heatshrink covered object the size and shape of an axial thermal fuse, cable-tied to one of the stator windings.   The ceramic, probably sand-filled, 1.6A Time-lag axial fuse isn't in thermal contact with the windings, and has what appears to be a factory original crimp on both leads so is most likely what it is and is solely for over-current protection. 

Why would the factory want to use solder when they are already set up to crimp?   
Fit a 1.5A Time-lag (T) axial fuse, get a spare, write the original fuse specs inside the housing, and call it good unless the new fuse doesn't hold.

[perieanuo]

that's not a thermal fuse, it's a standard current fuse. replace it with any correspondent one.

[themadhippy]

that's not a thermal fuse, it's a standard current fuse.

To be pedantic its not a magnetic device so it must be a thermal device

[Gyro]

As that's a standard fuse rather than a thermal one, the replacement can safely be soldered rather than crimped, reinforce the joints with adhesive lined heatshrink. It's also sometimes even possible to pull the crimped-on end caps off the ends of the existing fuse and re-fit them to a standard 20mm ceramic type (ensure that the ends are still a tight fit and again secure with heatshrink).

The (lack of) mechanical termination of that motor winding in a high vibration environment is sheer class!    Make sure that you secure the fibreglass sleeve back over the fuse and enameled wire with a cable tie to avoid shorts.

[inse]

Thermal fuses are usually marked with a temperature not a current rating.  The fuse in the photo looks like a glass overcurrent one, not a thermal fuse. But the connection method, ie not soldered, is certainly what is needed for a thermal fuse.  Is there a possibility that an original thermal fuse has been replaced by an overcurrent one?

Being pedantic, too: thermal fuses also have a voltage and current rating.
🤓

[JT101]

It was oriignally in a piece of heat shrink, and zip tied to the lower part of the windings.  I had to cut it open and free it to see what it was.  Does that make a difference?  I am inclined to agree with you, that it' s an over current fuse based on what you and others have said

[JT101]

How about these?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143372896014?itmmeta=01HYBS9JBDG03APSFSJ88EZMVB&hash=item2161b0c70e:g:ZRIAAOSwZi5drvXo&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8BSrQZDuEl6QMFKa1TXezlxhHaxmSQIHm3b%2F3%2BOytFZsXDcu3PB0QhuYTGQmcEvDwMSCDhNp%2BgzkqjNIIuspNeCDM7AE%2FnbmqK0GG1E0eTGHpNrSLqpRPqUEG6huMu8UMzIXfaTZcVe4zoFCgBUHBGQZBm%2BVsCvATESmwx6KfiOfVOAtnIhy3ttUQWqRQDwmwA2qE%2BDw8%2BMG2TTOwmd5r%2F1SmKLklA5lvsJilcv6JWzmW9IVyNTlQUZ5Qi4dHjJE%2BhJxiFysvMqfQqA12UNial5pdDyKu0Ue8hEeqUFMGeuluK246L9TuF%2F76exyfUKHCA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM6KWm-fJj

[Gyro]

Still daylight robbery but at least PCArena purchase their stock from RS, Farnell etc. so you can be more confident in genuine items...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364770625493

I'm never that happy about 10mm fuses for mains use, but at least it's ceramic and the [fault] current will be limited by the resistance of the motor. You might want to buy a spare because it most likely blew due to excessive mechanical load.


P.S. Don't forget the heatshrink. Iirc, Lidl had some useful packs the other week.

[JT101]

Hi again guys

I hadn't given up on this.  JUst taking my time to learn about electronic and electrical repairs. Have recieved what I believe to be the correct fuses.

If you look in the attached photo, you'll see that they haven't soldered this thermal fuse.  Based on what one guy told me about dissipating heat when you solder thermal fuses so they don't blow before you even get to use them, I would imagine this is why.  I'm not the best at soldering, so I thought I'd also get some of these ferrule crimps but I can't find any online.

Anyone know where i could get them.  I would say they're 4.5 x 2.9 x 1.5mm, with two holes for cables 0.5mm diameter.

Or is there something similar I could find for such small wires.  Thanks

[Haenk]

Just a mental note: Did you *check* the fuse for continuity? As there are *two* fuses, you need to be sure to replace the right one. Usually the overcurrent one (the one you have extracted) is not supposed to blow, unless something is wrong. The thermal fuse (still shrinkwrapped) however might blow due to extensive use alone, so that's more likely to happen. Check that one for continuity as well before cutting any wires. If it is blown, replace only with the same temperature rating (which is printed on the fuse). This one should be crimped.
Also make sure to electrically insulate everything *and* fix it back into position (zip tie), as there is a lot of vibration happening and you don't want cables to become loose and dangling around, potentially shorting.

[JT101]

Funnily enough I checked for continuity last night.  The fuse you're saying is overcurrent is dead.  Continuity up to one side of the fuse, but not across to the other side.

And the one still shrink wrapped, which you're saying is the thermal fuse has continuity. 

I definitely over cooked the motor.  I mean I ran this consumer blender really hard and then it stopped

Need to get some of those crimps though

[JT101]

Just to conclude, I managed to get one end of the fuse soldered to the white wire, and it tested for continuity to that point.  Trying to crimp or solder onto the end of the super fine coper wire proved impossible.  It's kept breakign and got to a point where there was no accessible wire left.  So basically I didn't fix the blender, but I should have, and I learned a lot on this process.  I should have extracted the motor from the housing, then access would have been much easier, and i may have succeeded.  I forgot the plate holding the spindle in place was reverse thread, so I thought I couldn't remove it.  Discovered this too late.

Anyway guys, thanks a bunch

On to the next repair

[coppercone2]

A PRECISION device like a blender that might be used to chop ice or even paper to make paper mache is not going to tolerate a fuse less then 1% of specification