A good 'hardware store' adhesive to glue components down?

[cvanc]

Is silicone caulk a good choice for gluing down capacitors, etc?  Any other suggestions?  Thanks...

[jpanhalt]

Common silicone caulk may release acid when it cures.   That is bad.  There is an electronic grade of silicone that is OK.  I use E6000 which is made by Eclectic Chemical Company and sold under various names, including E6000 and Shoe Goop. (http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/ ) 

EDIT: E6000 is not a silicone rubber.

[DTJ]

If you want to use hardware store RTV then just buy a neutral cure (non acid one). They will have some.

[xwarp]

What is the application of the circuit that components need glued down?

[cvanc]

What is the application of the circuit that components need glued down?

I work on older stuff and frequently replace axial electrolytics with radial.  In this situation it helps to fasten it to the board.

[rsjsouza]

Common silicone caulk may release acid when it cures.   That is bad.  There is an electronic grade of silicone that is OK.  I use E6000 which is made by Eclectic Chemical Company and sold under various names, including E6000 and Shoe Goop. (http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000/ ) 

EDIT: E6000 is not a silicone rubber.

I found another user of this glue! I bought this a few years ago when trying to get something that worked as a "general purpose" glue for plastics, metal, etc. and got this from the local home depot with not much consideration. I then quickly realized how good this is. It is somewhat easy to apply (it has a GEL consistency) and is translucid, thus I can use it even when aestetics are in consideration.

[jpanhalt]

E6000 has been around a long time. Originally in the US it was Shoe Goo or Shoe Goop (not sure).  It was really great for repairing athletic/rubber shoes.  The name seems to have changed to E6000.  There may also have been formulation changes (mainly  the solvent used) to comply with regulations.

It is difficult to tool, but tooling is not usually necessary.  It self-levels and shrinks considerably as it cures.  It bonds well to almost everything, including nylon and fiberglass.  And, it does not affect acrylics like CA glue does.

[DaJMasta]

Hot snot will do alright for basic anti-vibration stuff, and you can get higher temperature/stickier formulations that will hold up better with time, but it's not the ideal solution.  Neutral silicone is the usual preference for electronics work - a bit more pliable and environmentally stable, while there should be some at a lot of hardware stores, the easy way to check would be to use a bit and let it partly dry.  If it smells like vinegar, it's the wrong stuff, if doesn't have that smell, it's probably the kind that won't eat through PCBs.


Not exactly likely in a hardware store, but if you can find a conformal coating, that should be safe for electronics use if it's viscous enough to be an adhesive you're looking for.

[tkamiya]

I use hot-glue.  Unless you are using it on heat generating components, it works wonderfully. 

[xavier60]

E6000 PLUS is moisture curing,  http://eclecticproducts.com/downloads/tds/plus/tds-e6000Plus-us-ca-eu.pdf
I mostly use Threebond tb1530c which is also self levelling and moisture curing. It is difficult to source in most countries.

[T3sl4co1l]

FYI, E6000 is not gelled, it flows slowly.  This makes it annoying to use to fill gaps.

Anyone used e.g. Gorilla Glue under electrolytics?  Seems like it might be close to the original brown goop a lot of assemblies used.

Probably some caulk/sealant products would do, for filling gaps ala Silastic; if silicone based, again, neutral cure is required.  Acrylic or latex based should be okay as-is.  Try to find a temp rating on the stuff, don't want it drying out and crumbling at a mere 60°C or something.

Tim

[MagicSmoker]

Of the silicone caulks and "RTVs" available at hardware and auto parts stores, the kind that releases ammonia and methanol when curing is ok for electronics use (e.g. - GE Silicone II) while the kind that releases acetic acid (vinegar smelling) is not. Just read the warnings on the back to see which is which. IIRC, "sensor safe" RTV is the acetic acid type, so don't be fooled into thinking that sensor safe = electronics safe.

If this is for a product that has to go through safety agency certification then you have to use an approved silicone (etc.) with its attendant increase in price, but for prototypes/one-offs and boutique products the hardware store stuff is fine.

[T3sl4co1l]

Ammonia corrodes copper and a few other metals, I wouldn't risk it.  The alcohol cure ones are good.

Tim

[MagicSmoker]

Ammonia corrodes copper and a few other metals, I wouldn't risk it.

Only aqueous solutions of ammonia are corrosive, but high humidity counts so point taken.

[lasworren]

Ammonia corrodes copper and a few other metals, I wouldn't risk it.  The alcohol cure ones are good.

I agree. In my opinion, alkoxy silicone is a safe solution for electronic use. And more reliable than hot glue.
 

[jfiresto]

I might try MS Polymer adhesive if you can find out (all the German home improvement stores sell various kinds and colors). It is very benign, stable and should need little surface prep beyond degreasing. It cures slowly, however: to 2-3 mm depth over the first 24 hours and then progressively more slowly.

[Gregg]

I’ve used UV cure adhesive for hobbyist repair on small components and to tack down bodge wires.  It cures really fast but is quite hard and difficult to remove.  The one I used is thicker than CA and easier to put just where it is needed. 
Maybe not available from the hardware store, however.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ABU/

[wraper]

Ammonia corrodes copper and a few other metals, I wouldn't risk it.  The alcohol cure ones are good.

Tim

There is also acetone cure which is also fine.

[cvanc]

Thanks everybody for the input, it's much appreciated.  Looks like E6000 is a solid and cheap contender; I've picked up a tube.

This is for a project currently in front of me, naturally - a restoration wherein some 70's vintage HV film caps will get transplanted onto a new board.  I think they're polycarbonates (remember those?) but the outer wrap is that glossy yellow you used to see.  I always assumed that wrap was polypropylene, but it's just an assumption.

This would negate both 6000 and 6000+ as they are specifically not recommended for polypropylene.  These caps need something like a neutral cure silicone, right?

Thanks again.

[MagicSmoker]

These caps need something like a neutral cure silicone, right?

Like I said earlier - and despite the naysayers - hardware store silicone that emits methanol and ammonia during curing is fine, especially for a repair in a ventilated cabinet. Now, if this was something being manufactured and/or the board is in a sealed enclosure I would definitely want to use a proper electronics-grade silicone with guaranteed compatibility with all the materials that might be exposed to it (or its offgasses), but in this case it sounds like the hardware store stuff will be fine. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good and all that.