First of all calm down and stop being overly defensive. I didn't call or imply you were a liar and I will explain what I said in a very logical, straightforward way that shows exactly what I was thinking.... which had nothing to do with you lying.
I don't have an EV but typically you can lease the battery for around £70 a month.
How big is the battery? Thats an important detail.
Let me work backwards on that a bit and prempt my answer to your lying concern.
based on teh info you have given I'll take it that your battery is 100% charged at night. yeah, I realise it may not be fully charged every night but I'll base the answer on the fact it is given an EV could easily consume the storage capacity of any battery bank.
If you are paying .09 per KWh at night and .18 per day, your saving having the battery is .09 per kwh.
At 70 quid a month rent, you would have to be storing 777 Kwh a month or 26 Kwh a day at the .09 saving to BREAK EVEN on the cost of the battery. It would in reality be more because there is no way you are putting the same into the battery as it is storing and you are getting out. I don't need to factor that in because the margin is too wide on the negative side to have to worry. I'll keep that up my sleeve to give a " worse than" number.
Now as I'm assuming this is not a DIY setup, I will say right here and now, your battery is NOT storing 26KWH and therefore its not coming close to repaying it's cost, it's costing you a lot to have it.
How do I know it's not storing 26KWH a day? Easy. There isn't a commercial battery that does these days. Again unless you have some modulated pack with that sort of capacity which would be highly unlikely, the biggest battery out there atm is a power wally. 13 Kwh usable.
I don't know what you mean by given my power prices.
Heres what I mean.
By my and i think most world standards, your power is cheap. The cheaper your power the less you save on having a battery. If you were paying $1 Kwh then it would be easy to recoup your investment. The less you pay the less you save the less returns you get.
And that is the sum total of my comment on given your power prices. They are cheap and they make getting a return on a battery investment more difficult.
/ end of implications , thought behind comment.
Now, as you don't have an EV and may not be using all the capacity you have now, sure as hell you aren't using 25KWh Day unless you are heating electricaly in winter, which your battery is Highly UNlikley to be storing anyway, you cannot save enough on costs of the power you store to justify the expense of the battery.
This is pretty much a universal case.
I have spoken to people all over the world about this. Power is cheaper in some parts than others but battery prices follow that very closely as well.
Cheap power, cheaper batteries. More exy power, more exy batteries. because the MARGIN is very consistent, there are VERY few places and applications where a battery will justify itself. Maybe.
All the calcs I have run so far are on solar, IE free power. You are the first I have spoken to and looked at with paying for power to recharge the battery. really irrelevant because the power has a price either way. Either what you save buying or what you loose in FIT's . In this case its the margin between what you pay peak and off peak. If you were just paying the .9 straight out, in this case the number is conveniently the same so don't matter which way you slice it. If your battery is as I'm guessing, something in the 6-8 Kw range, the thing is COSTING you heaps.
Would not matter if you had an EV to charge or a steelworks to run, the battery only holds so much and that how much is not enough to repay the cost of having the thing. That's it. There are no other calcs or factors other than the inefficiency of charging 2 batteries, the home and the EV one which as I said at the outset, makes the situation WORSE.
There is lots of complicated maths people bandy about but it's this simple. battery cost Vs. offset cost of power stored.
The only additional thing is that you will never use 100% of battery capacity every day due to not being home, on holidays, cloudy weather not allowing full charge ( in other cases) and so on. You can calculate the BEst case scenario which is always detrimental enough and from there the reality you can't calculate is worse.
i have already explained (call me a liar if you like) that over night charging can be done for £0.09/KWh. If the average claim of 250Wh/mile is true that makes the mileage energy cost around 2-3p/m.
Unfortunately what you are missing is the less power you use in this case the worse the rental detriment on the battery becomes.
70 quid would buy you 777 Kwh. untill you use 800+ kwh, you'd be better without the thing.
I would assume there was setup and installation costs with that as well which would go to buying more power depending on how you want to amortize the cost time wise.
Buying a battery outright is bad enough. Renting is going to be far worse because you will over time be paying even more than the battery could be bought for.
MY CAR costs me 15p/mile in petrol and it's a small car.
If we look at the cost of the battery rental, and cost of fuel, your car could take you 466 Miles a month/ 116 Miles wk before you were any worse off.
This is exactly where the price you pay for power is not the be all and end all of it. There are a LOT more costs than just power and I'm sorry to set you off in what will most likely be another indignant outcry but your investment in a battery , especially with the low power prices you enjoy, is a pathetically poor one.
I don't know where you get the 7000 mile break even number from because there is no possible way to do that going on the numbers you are quoting. But again, on your own figures, 466 miles a month is 5600 a year which is what your battery RENTAL would have taken you in the IC PLUS, you then have to pay for the power you would use in your EV and offset the cost of petrol in your IC against that. I reckon you'd get at least 8000 miles in the IC for the same cost NOT counting installation of the battery and the extra power you are buying to take into account inefficiency. If your battery is 5 Kwh, you are buying bare minimum 7 to get 5 into your EV.... when you get your EV.
So clearly if you drive enough the battery price soon does not matter.
No, sorry again, it ALWAYS matter especially when it's a huge step backwards as yours is.
You can't pretend costs aren't there and dont count them. It all has to be factored in. by the sounds of it, I'sd say the battery matters hugely in your case because firstly, even if you do fully utilize it it's costing you far more than it saves you, secondly you are highly likley not to be using it to capacity now anyway increasing the cost of having it and 3rdly, when you get an EV you are still likley to be buying extra power anyway and if you are not it just means the low level of usage again makes the ROI worse.
There is NO upside here, no way this thing is saving you money or worth having.... as much as I'm sure you are going to refute that with complicated and flawed calculations.
An EV does not have a combustion engine full of moving parts rubbing and banging into each other as part of their normal operation and the maintenance on an electric motor will be far lower than a combustion engine.
The only thing different to an EV and an IC is the power train. Ev's still have shock absorbers, suspension bushing, tyres and brake pads, wiper blades, Cabin filters, Lubrication of door latches, cables and hinges, need wheel alignments, OIL changed ( despite the wide spread greenwashed denial of this) and a whole load of other things that are the normal service and maintence items on an IC.
This idea an IC don't have an engine and gearbox and nothing ever wears out on them is greenwashing at it's finest. Yes, they need an oil change more often BUT, look at the service list and what you pay for when you do get your car serviced, all the same things I mentioned no matter if it's an EV or IC.
No clutch, no cam belt - I am due a cam belt change, that will cost £500 and i get nothing from that other than i can keep driving. with an EV £500 buys me 7 months of battery lease.
Clutch if you know how to drive will last over 100K Miles. Cam belt change is 60K + Miles. 500 quid over 60K miles is less than .8 p per mile.
If you are going to split hairs down to that level and try to tell me they count, sorry, you and I are on differnt levels financially and are talking an accuracy of budgeting I couldn't come near and sure as hell don't want to be worrying about. You go into costs so much with running an EV but do you budget as tightly for the beers you drink in a year or the times you have take away or what you spend taking the family out for a day or....??
I sure as hell don't, I have far bettter things to worry about in my life than the the .08P cam belt wear costs me every mile.
How much do tyres and brake pads cost you per mile. WHAT is the cost of the things an EV needs?
I'll bet my backside a set of pads on an EV costs double if not more what they do in your car you have now. I'll also bet that the servicing costs of an EV will be a lot higher if less frequent than an ev narrowing the gap far closer to what is always made out.
And just occurred to me being we have different currency's, how the hell is a cam belt change costing you 500 quid? Your money is double mine and if you are paying my equivalent of $1000 for a cam belt change, you are either Driving a Ferrari or you are getting bent over and torn a new one big time. If you are driving a small car I doubt the engine is anything exotic so I will have to assume you are either getting ripped well and truly on the price or Guilding the lilly.
Yeah, I do know a little about cars, family business is in the auto game so I am involved and have a good idea of things in the real world.
Whats the insurance comparison between an EV and a comparable IC? How about parts prices if you break a tail light or need a new wheel strut, door lock motor, windscreen, wiper motor or any of those other common high demand parts that all cars have?
Being you are talking about getting a used IC, it's a certainty not a possibility the thing is going to need parts.
And lets not forget the biggie here, while you are counting cam belt costs that here would be a once in 5 years thing for half the cost you are quoting, what about the BATTERY replacement cost on an EV?
Those things don't last forever and they are going to make engine replacement on an IC look cheap.
ANY IC these days that doesent go 250Km / 15 years on the original engine has been flogged or was a lemon. How long will an EV go? From everything I read you can count on a new battery pack in 7-10 years. what does that particular 12 gauge shot to the pocket cost as a standalone and per mile basis? I'm bettering it's going to make your cam belt look like a bargain particularly as the intervals could be pretty close.
From what I read, EV's are not worth replacing battery packs because by the time they need one they have depriciated so much that it's simply not worth it. I expect that situation will only become stronger as more cars are available on teh market with better range and more features. Who's going to want to replace the pack in a 60 mile range car when maybe a few grand will buy them something 5+ years newer with 3xplus the range and all the advantages every later model has.
I would suggest when buying a used EV, do your homework thoroughly and tread VERY carefully.
There is a LOT more to this picture than the cost of fueling and in this case it's not nearly what you make out anyway.
And just to clarify, i'm not calling you a liar, just mistaken and over looking a lot of things that make your position inaccurate and not what you think it is.