I know I asked before but exactly how old are you?
My reason for asking is that I have wasted time arguing with 15 yo's before that thought they knew everything when the complete an opposite was true and spouted endless garbage that just wasn't correct in any way. Not wishing to go down that road again but anyway....
Your car is fine. In France E10 has been available for decades so cars need to be able to deal with ethanol in the fuel.
E10 has been available in Oz for decades as well and precisely as said it IS a menace and that's a far more polite word than I'd use for the crap.
I work part time in a Car wrecking yard. We can look at a number of things on an engine and walk off shaking our heads saying " yeah, it's been run on that cheap shit all right. " It screws with Cat convertors, it kills O2 sensors. Car comes in with either of those problems and you know the owner has been running E10 and the question always confirms it. Not all bad, Bought my daughter a 3 Yo car with 40K Km on it a few years ago for next to nothing. Check engine light was on.
mechanics had changed plugs and frigged around with the 02 sensors which meant the cat convertor was shot. OVER $5000 here for a new one. Conveniently had 3 cars in the yard same model with good cats so put one on and runs like a watch. Of course she knows not to put Ecrap near it and hasn't had a problem in the 3 years she has had it.
Even on 5 yo cars, there are problems with sensors and fuel pumps and other things but of course you deal with this hands on but the green washed deny it and claim it must be a local problem or something. IT's Not! know the world over.
I wouldn't have E10 in anything I own.
Years ago Figured out how much less mileage a vehicle got using it. Yes, it's a few cents cheaper here, only a few not 10 or 20c per litre but on a good day maybe 5C/L cheaper but if you work out the reduction in range, it is in fact a heap more EXPENSIVE. In actual fact the cheapest fuel is the most expensive 98 or what ever because you go further and although you pay more, you pay more less often and over all long term pay less. been heaps of tests done on this and they all come to the same conclusion.
The other thing as mentioned is it affect fuel lines, diaphragms, carbs etc. even still on new gear supposedly rated for it.
Go to a small engine/ garden equipment shop and ask them about Ecrap and see what they say.
The other thing with this garbage is the fact it is extremely hygroscopic.
It sucks water out the air better than a dehumidifier. Unfortunately all that water ends up in your tank or carb and plays havoc from there. On the newer gear with the greenwashed idea of non adjustable carbs, it also leans the mixture making for hard starting and poor running especially when the engine gets a bit worn.
It's not like I am unfamiliar with alcohol based fuels. I ran a race bike on Methanol so I know what it is like. You would always drain the tank and carb and replaced fuel line and carb parts often. You changed the oil every run because even if the thing is running lean, it still get in the oil and pulls water in too.
You can run much higher compression, you can run real rich mixtures to keep detonation down and pistons from melting and get great power out of a race engine, BUT..... those are all things that you do not need or want in a road car. You don't want to drain the tank and change the oil every time the thing is going to be parked for more than a few days.
The only reason E10 is not a bigger problem with condensation in cars is they have sealed fuel systems so the air can get in but not out so therefor the amount of air is limited.
Actually ethanol helps to keep the inside of your engine clean.
You read this right, straight off the flag waving websites. Must have because once again, completely wrong.
Tell me though, how many engines have you personally, yourself torn down that have been running E10 and seen the combustion chambers or any other part of the engine internals and what did they look like?
The ones I have torn down have carbon in them like any other but still have the tell tale white exhaust valves from the Ecrap meaning they were running too hot even though it may be a car less than 10 Yo and supposedly able to run the ethacrap. Other sensors can be affected as well because the E rubbish gets into the oil and through the breathers and deterioates sensor performance and function.
Not saying every car that runs a tank full of the stuff will fall over but there is NO denying those vehicles run long term on the stuff DO have more predictable problems than those run on the non contaminated fuels.
I've got over 100.000 km of running on E10 and never noticed any degradation on any car.
Ahh huh. But you wouldn't notice any degradation in that time especially if parts and components were logically replaced so that is a meaningless and diversionary statement. I notice you say "any car" so the 100K km has not been on one car so we don't know if you got one and it already had problems which you wouldn't be aware of or if you got rid of the thing before problems became apparent.
With respect, it is very clear to me that vehicle mechanics is not something you are particularly familiar with to know what would cause a problem and in honesty, I would suggest that even if you were told of a problem caused by ethanol contaminated fuel, you wouldn't admit it here and probably not even to yourself if it went against your green proclivities.
Again: E10 has been on the market for decades in some countries.
Yes. And it's been known to cause problems Right off the bat as long as it has been available those decades. MOST equipment you buy here now specifically has labels and stickers on it NOT to run it on ethanol laced fuels including several bits of garden gear I bought new recently. I have also seen new mowers, generators and small engines on industrial equipment with the same warnings. Vehicles have warnings NOT to use Biodiesel as well.
E10- E whatever is a very poor fuel. No ifs or butts or spin doctoring about it. It's not about the vehicles, it's about the inherent properties of the fuel itself.
I don't spose you know ethanol was extensively used as fuel during WWII. It was made especially for aircraft fuel amoung other things. There were problems with it then but in wartime they put up with a lot. Why do you suppose when they were geard up to make the suff in such Qty they didn't keep going with it if it was cheaper, better fuel that burnt cleaner and had better performance?
Clearly, because it was not a superior fuel and was problematic and Petro fuel was in fact a far better alternative. Simple as that.
For garden tools (and generators) you need to buy an additive which keeps the fuel from aging. This is pretty common knowledge.
I "Need to buy an additive"? Why?Isn't it a btter fuel a you told us? Or maybe I need additives because the stuff is shit that will cause problems without it? Well that is in fact the case isn't it.
I'm curious though, if it's common knowledge you need additives, why aren't they put in at the refinery?
Instead of Buying additives ( which are universally Naptha BTW) I just buy quality, no hassel fuels that DO NOT have ethanol in them. Additives are expensive and require more stuffing round to make the fuel decent. I have no interests in paying more after I bought supposedly cheaper fuel which makes it way more expensive.
Like anything else, I avoid known junk and rubbish and pay a little more for what I know is quality and less trouble and am happy.
@Doug: no, you won't get a 25% reduction in milage. More like 10% to 15%.
No, I worked out years ago the Wifes car got about 21% poorer economy using Ecrap than using the regular non contaminated fuel. But she had already worked out she was getting about 80 odd Km less per tank on the Ecrap.
The nice thing about ethanol is that it is a high octane fuel so your engine will run more efficient.
Errr, no it won't. Wrong again.
Modern engines are all relatively low compression so unless you have a sports model which inevitably FORBID you to run Ecrap, the higher octane is wasted.
Do you even fully understand what octane actually is? Clearly not.
It is resistance to compression ignition basically, How hard you can squeeze it and how hot you can make a mixture of it before it goes bang on it's own.
It is NOT a measure of energy content. You do not need much octane in an engine that's running 8-10:1 Compression with knock sensors that feed a signal back to the computer than can retard timing anyway.
Octane and efficiency is like trying to relate Engine temperature and windscreen wiper speed. They are not related in any way shape or form.
This higher efficiency counteracts the lower energy content of ethanol.
Mate, do you make this stuff up as you go or do you just parrot garbage you read on some forums or websites?
There is no higher efficiency to start with and if there was, it would be in the engine design NOT the fuel.
The deciding factor you are oblivious to in the fuel is not octane, it is calorific value.
That is the amount of energy in a given amount of a fuel either by weight as is the proper measurement or by volume.
While ethanol does have a higher octane, it has a LOWER calorific value . This in a normal every day vehicle equates to a given amount of fuel having less total energy and therefore less ability to do work. That is why you get less mileage.... as you admitted to then contradicted yourself.
It is exactly the difference between a chord of hardwood and a chord of softwood. Same volume, one burns a lot longer and hotter than the other and there for you can heat, cook and boil more with the hard wood than the same volume of softwood.
If the fuel was more "efficient" as you put it, you would get BETTER not worse economy. You admit that economy is poorer than with straight fuel and this might be the most accurate and truthful thing I have seen you suggest so far.
This is why the non contaminated fuels, some of which have LOWER octane ratings than Ethacrap get better mileage and when the most expensive fuels which have the most energy have the best economy.
Biodiesel is Exactly the same compared to Diesel. Less energy, about 10-12% depending on the actual feedstock of the oil the Bio was transesterfied from and a bit to do with the actual process used. This on a diesel., particularly a non turbo engine that can frequently be driven flat out, can be very noticeable.
That in addition to a much slower speed of combustion which equates to earlier timing needed, can make bio and veg give a Diesel noticeably less Pep and economy.
On My truck I have the Pump wound up and If I need to go hard as in towing or want passing power on the highway, I add 5% real Petrol which compensates for the slower combustion speed of the oil and brings the timing back in line with that needed for regular Diesel.
You really ought to fact check things before posting as deliberate or not, your many flawed statements are not winning anyone over to your side of the discussion or greening them over.
Again, what is your age please?