Yeah that's kind of what I was wondering, but I figure it should be safe to give 60+ volts to the 48v charge controller right? Open circuit voltage of those panels for example is 38v, so the charge controller would see 76v max. Found this in the documentation of the Midnite controller. (not dead set on any equipment just using that one as example)
The Classic offers some unique opportunities if you are faced with longer than normal wire runs
between the DC source and the Classic. The Classic comes in 3 input voltage ranges letting you design
a DC source at a higher voltage if it is beneficial. For example let‘s say you have a 300 ft run from a
PV array to the Classic you could wire for an open circuit voltage close to 250vdc accounting for the
coldest temperature you will encounter
. This will allow you to run a smaller gauge wire than with a
lower voltage charge controller. The efficiency of a high voltage Classic is less than the lower voltage
versions, so you need to weigh the benefit. If this sounds too complicated use this rule of thumb in
selecting the proper Classic. PV runs up to 100 feet, use the Classic 150. Runs up to 180 feet, use the
Classic 200. Above 180 feet use the Classic 250.
So I'm thinking these are probably typically designed to handle quite a large input voltage range, so I guess I would more than likely be fine to connect higher voltage strings. But guess the closer you are to nominal the more efficient it will probably be right? Ex: I probably would not want to go with 100+ volts pv if I don't actually need to.
As a side note, I think I was having a brain fart in another statement I made about wattage and series panels, I was thinking if I have two panels in parallel, then I don't add up the wattage, but I do, right? So whether my panels are in series or parallel, my system wattage is equivalent to how many panels I have and not how many strings I have. I kept thinking in terms of amps and not watts. Basically, 1000w of solar, no matter what the nominal voltage of the system is, should power 1000w of AC 120v right? (of course there are conversion losses etc) So now that I realized this brain fart of mine, that changes a lot, I may be able to fit way more watts on my roof than I was originally thinking. And if I only need 2 panels in a string, that also opens options to stick some more in less optimal areas that may still get sun for a part of the day but not all day. Next time I'm off I'm going to go measure my roof then compare typical panel dimensions to figure out how much I can put.
At this point I have zero money to do this, but the more I think about it the more I want to despite it not being that viable here for most of the year, still will produce more than if I don't have any. Maybe I can throw it in the mortgage.
I would imagine that's what a lot of people do when they get these systems. I pay a lot extra into the mortgage anyway so not like it would throw me behind. Have lot of time to think about this anyway.