Can confirm, we did the crimp and solder-pot method at a PPoE. This included stuff up to
*ahem* appendage size -- several-ought AWG equivalent. Induction heating, 100s kW range stuff.
I don't think burning it off beforehand is going to be all that productive... if it's not fluxed and displaced by solder I'm pretty sure it's going to turn to some impenetrable charred varnishy crud. That said, I have some ancient enameled wire that's literal enamel, not any poly-thing, and not only is it unsolderable, it just goes from dark brown to ever-darker shades of black, until it's so hot that the carbon evaporates... or the copper melts. I have enough of it that I can (grudgingly) use it for smaller litz builds; I solve the problem by treating it with an appropriately(?) aggressive chemical: molten potassium chlorate. Which oxidizes the FUCK out of anything the least bit organic, while the molten salt provides a flux cover for the copper, keeping it bright. It is... not something I can recommend for general use, needless to say!
Anyway, for smaller stuff, and for insertion into board, crimp terminals probably aren't important. Binding it up with a dip in the solder pot (be careful not to fray any strands on the way in) makes it solderable as any other loose wire/pin. You can use crimp wire holder thingys, this sort of thing:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0002092105/403217though if it's tinned before insertion, the holder / spring clip feature probably won't work; and if not, then you need a long enough wave soldering cycle to ensure the cable makes connection, which may be more than you'd otherwise expect for the assembly.
And if you're tinning beforehand, you're basically using it as a ferrule, which I mean... sure, why not? So, those too, just regular ferrules.
Again, goop can be used to hold the wire in place, which might even be doable before soldering so it doesn't shift at all during wave. Or if this is hand soldering, yeh doesn't even matter just do it however works alright.
Tim