Yes, take the 12V/24V side, and treat it like you are in a 1980's Jaguar XJ, with the horrid Lucas electrical putting 200V spikes on with every ignition pulse off the coil, and the dynamo merrily taking the battery voltage from 10V to 30V as it cycles on and off, plus all the rest of the fun of wet electrics like Lucas can deliver. Never seen a boat with good electrics, unless it was brand new, and had never actually been in the water yet, all were a mix of corroded wires, corroded connections and nasty. Connectors you want to use those that Yamaha uses, those, with judicious application of the right silicone grease, will survive well, though the crimping tools are expensive, along with the right waterproof double sleeved wire, because your normal wire from the local hardware is going to be permeable to some extent. Marine grade cables exist for a reason, along with the connectors.
With the 230VAC (or 115VAC, often using the same type of plug and socket, and no marking as to voltage) you also have all sorts of sags, surges and spikes as well, plus you will either need good filtering, make sure most of the stuff is class 2, and does not need a protective ground, and is double insulated, plus has some decent surge suppression in it. Oh yes, also should work off square waves with massive harmonics on it, because that is what most inverters will give, none of this sine wave well regulated supply here.