I like it, Sandra. What's the minimum length possible (i.e., would the case bump into the switches first or the binding posts)?
I'm have to figure it out for sure.
6 decades with end caps is ~42mm, with my design I need at minimum 10mm total clear so figure 6 decades at 52mm width.
the 16x8 need about 29mm depth for the PCB then add rear jacks and some clearance. so I'm sticking with the 60mm deep and that may be cutting it close.
So here's a question
what is the preference for the jacks?
do most envision plugging bannana plugs in or test probes or bare wire?
I could make the rear a separate panel to allow for different options in the design (which thinking about it I think I will)
for me personally I'm probably going with these so my initial design will be based on them
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mueller-electric-co/BU-31610-2/314-1267-ND/4692920
I have been thinking about the case for the last week or so. I have come up with a few thoughts:
- The box has to be as small as possible so it can be close to the breadboard (or whatever) and not be an annoyance.
- Connections have to be as short as possible (some uses may require it).
- Connection binding has to be as small as possible. If jacks, that would point to 2mm units.
- Digits have to be visible to operator while in use.
- Utility takes precedence over stylistic shapes.
With that in mind, I am afraid I will have to design my own... I am not trying to convince anyone. I have put some (retirement) hours browsing eBay, Alixpress, Mouser, Digikey...
So, if I think I would be placing the unit(s) behind the breadboard, with digits facing me, then the connections would have to be as close to the front as possible.
If using jacks, because of their dimensions, they would be 2mm ones, and to minimize case size, they would have to be placed in the front face, left or right of the switch block. But 2mm jacks are not that common on my bench, and a good jack may cost more than the rest of the box. So, do I really need jacks?
I have mulled over if just a couple of good silicone wires coming out of the from wall (mini grommets?) would be enough, but I think some times I may need longer or shorter ones.
All the above is taking me to think that the best solution for me is to build some custom bolt based binding posts. May be M3 Allen head, fork lug and washer on the inside; flat nut and acorn nut outside to receive wire with fork slug. Both bindings vertically aligned can take around 12mm to 15mm of horizontal space in the front wall.
The switch block, with 6xswitches + 2xbookends, has a total width of 42mm, plus 2x1mm lips. The height is 16mm plus 2x1mm lips. The switch depth with the new boards is short of 30mm plus the lip which will stay outside.
A box with inside dimensions of 60mm x 30mm x 16mm should do it. Top and bottom overlapping except where the switch block is, where they move back to account for the lip. Top and bottom tied with 3mm screws on the inside and nuts on top.
May be I can draw something tomorrow.