Author Topic: Plasma cleaning- DIY HF HV source?  (Read 9662 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online coppercone2

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 9925
  • Country: us
  • $
Re: Plasma cleaning- DIY HF HV source?
« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2020, 12:18:45 am »
And I upgraded to a glue gun with mix nozzles and Loctite epoxy products + a minifridge
*you get screwed by the price of the different ratio plungers, given they are simple plastic parts... but sometimes the glue is a bit hard to squeeze out so you actually need a high quality strong plastic for the gun, particularly if you are impatient to fully warm the tubes up after cold storage

I don't think you can get similar performance from degassed mixes as you can with the mixing tube. I gave up on vaccuming the mixed glue because if its too viscous it seems worse after the vacuum.

Also, the acrylic epoxies are very nice, and smell nice (like wintergreen or something), and have glass beads in them to ensure proper joint thickness on compression. These have a much better adhesion to plastic also. They are weird though, it makes me think of working with a liquid spider web.

you can say my glue budget is dried out at this point with all the new acquisitions over this year

There is a table some where that tells you the viscosity in CPS vs the type of mixing/degas that works.. when it gets too thick you need to mix it under vacuum or in a mix nozzle for it to be any good. It seems the vacuum pot method is only good for stuff up to the viscosity of maple syrup.


Do you know about proper methods of laying the glue out? Like with a glue comb or such? I was thinking about 3d printing a glue comb but I am not sure if the effect just looks good or if there was any thought to how the comb was designed.

I glued a ton of stuff this year and honestly I can't stand the smell of normal epoxy anymore.. the acrylic is a nice change


And for polyethylene I am quite satisfied with primer + loctite prism glue, I want to say its strong enough that the only appeal for the plasma cleaning is for chemically resistant joints that you get with epoxy. If its simple mechanical chassis stuff, you can get by with the super glue, so long the joint areas are big enough, for hobby electronics. I might try a piece on teflon if I can find a flat bit. Good enough for a inductor coil bracket insulator I think.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2020, 12:43:15 am by coppercone2 »
 

Offline SilverSolder

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 6126
  • Country: 00
Re: Plasma cleaning- DIY HF HV source?
« Reply #26 on: November 13, 2020, 03:33:20 am »

If you don't like the smell of epoxy, try the urethanes...  pure evil!
 

Offline Conrad HoffmanTopic starter

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1957
  • Country: us
    • The Messy Basement
Re: Plasma cleaning- DIY HF HV source?
« Reply #27 on: November 13, 2020, 03:40:07 am »
Not a clue about glue combs. We use EFD units and sometimes robotics to place small dot patterns. If you're getting any kind of good results with polyethylene, you're doing great.
https://www.nordson.com/en/divisions/efd/products/fluid-dispensing-systems
 

Offline SilverSolder

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 6126
  • Country: 00
Re: Plasma cleaning- DIY HF HV source?
« Reply #28 on: November 13, 2020, 03:55:55 am »

I spoke with a 3M rep yesterday, they have some products that claims to do the low surface energy plastics - I think it is DP8005 and DP8010 -  without surface prep.

I have a project going on where I need to glue some polypropylene panels - hopefully, this will work!  (will find out this w/e)

 

Online coppercone2

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 9925
  • Country: us
  • $
Re: Plasma cleaning- DIY HF HV source?
« Reply #29 on: November 13, 2020, 08:33:57 am »
yea I have both 8805 and 8810. Those are the glass bead ones that self adjust thickness with pressure

Keep in mind 1:10 mix ratio. You need the gun with the 10:1 and the mixing nozzle is different for them. They come in cool colors so you can see the bead line well (teal, blue). So the common glues are 1:1, 1:2 and 1:10


I have one tube of polyurathane 2 part glue that I will be using to glue a rubber guard on the bottom of a garage door eventually. I think its the best glue for the job but I am not looking forward to using it. For the loctite prism glue and medical primer, I glued AA cases to plexiglass with sanding and priming, and the body material of the battery case (the black plastic ones) started to rip before the rubberized prism glue when I attempted to crack it off. Not sure if it would take an impact sideways loaded with batteries, but I assume its doing pretty good if the ribbing is ripping before the bond is failing. When I tried it without the activator, it just left a superglue mold behind. You work it like nail polish, the coating is super thin.

Those battery packs just have metal that is melted into the PE plastic, so there is not good clearance if you need to attach it to metal, so you can glue it to a plexiglass sheet and screw it to something.

« Last Edit: November 13, 2020, 08:39:01 am by coppercone2 »
 
The following users thanked this post: SilverSolder


Share me

Digg  Facebook  SlashDot  Delicious  Technorati  Twitter  Google  Yahoo
Smf