If it has a getter, and the getter has powdered, from exposure to H2O and O2, NO.
If for some reason the getter has not powdered, if it is not depleted, and if it is one of the contained, somewhat reusable, reactive type, maybe, but designing the RF inductive coil system for reheating the getter is a problem. Placing a getter in the fill stem is a possibility, but usually there is no room in the equipment for an enlarged fill stem.
The second problem is the COE of the glass, coefficient of expansion. Without knowing the COE, it is very difficult to select a new glass for the fill stem. It the COE doesn't match within 7 to 10 parts per million, it will likely crack, especially with soft glass. Usually the fill stem is sealed so close to the body that getting a seal onto it will do further damage. Soft glass (soda lime, or Lead Glass ) of C0E 110 and COE 80 are both out there in displays and common. COE 52 is rare, its a Borosilicate or more likely Aluminosilicate, and it can be out there.
The third problem is resealing the crack. In many years of playing with glass, I can assure you, with soft glass, no matter how gentle I am with heating, ie pre-annealing, the crack will propagate forwards. So next folks ask what happens if I seal it with a vacuum grade epoxy. If your lucky you get a few minutes to a few months of operation.
The fourth problem is re-activating all the electrode surfaces to degas any water vapor. Will it survive bakeout? If the seal is epoxy, likely not. I have a ceramic loaded epoxy I use for this sort of thing, and it is hit or miss. Worse yet it if has a phosphor on the anodes like a VFD, is cleaning the phosphor.
Its easy to process a new build tube. Its not so easy to refill a used tube.
If I had many of them, eventually I'd get it right. I could switch to a sealing frit that fires at a lower temperature then the body glass melting point. That firing point is usually 100-150'c lower then the melting point of the body glass. There are two types of sealing frit, one devitrifies and thus it's melting temperature goes through the roof. If the display uses frit, and it is of the devitrifying type, maybe. If its of the non-devitrifying type, it gets soft and the old seal can move. Is there a stripe of black or dark green, maybe grey, all around the edges of the tube, usually inside the clear glass? If so, that is Frit.
In the rare case that it uses Dumet seals to reach the electrodes, has no frit, and the crack is not near a glass to metal seal, its blackened to indicate its COE, and has a hugely long fill stem.. That might be worth a try.
I started with COE80 leaded soft glass (Neon Tubing) and soda lime, back in 1986 or so. I quickly moved on to borosilicate for a reason.
Your fill will be a Penning Mixture of Neon 99.5%, Argon balance, most likely. There can be traces of mercury or xenon for various reasons. Fill pressure is likely 30-60 Torr, again, likely, not for certain.
For a one off, probably no. Returning to flying status is a NO. If it were easy, rebuilt Nixies would be a thing.
Got a picture?
Sorry for the bad news in advance...
Steve