Thank you all!
Local shops -- brick & mortar as well as mail order -- don't seem to be an option any longer. They all seem to have taken leaded sholder off their shelves in the course of the past year or two.
(Long after RoHS became effective, and frankly I am unsure what regulatory requirement was driving this. RoHS only applies to electrical and electronic equipment. I.e. one can't use leaded solder in the manufacture of such equipment, but one can use it to make non-electrical stuff, repair old equipment, and of course for any hobby work which does not result in products that will be "put on the market". And I can't find any clause in the RoHS directioves that would stop a company from selling leaded solder in Europe.)
You are correct: you couldn’t find a relevant RoHS clause because there is no RoHS clause that applies to components. The reason shops can’t sell you leaded solder is because of the separate REACH regulation:
https://blog.assentcompliance.com/index.php/difference-reach-rohs-compliance/But yeah, you can readily order it from Mouser, Digi-Key, Farnell, etc. And many shops in the EU will sell you leaded solder if you say it’s for commercial use.
With that said, I don’t think modern lead-free solder is hard to work with at all. My favorite one so far has been the Felder ISO-Core "Ultra-Clear", Sn100Ni, which I got from Reichelt. I like it better than the Stannol, and it’s even a bit cheaper. Is it
quite as nice as Kester 44 63/37? No. But it’s close. I’d choose the Felder over Stannol 60/40.
The only time you see difficulties with lead-free that you wouldn’t with leaded is when you are working at the absolute thermal limits of your soldering equipment, when your board is sucking away so much heat that you need every little bit. But frankly, the real solution is to choose a larger tip and maybe get a more powerful station.