Guys,
I know you can buy a 110V<-->220V transformer, but is it not our bench already crowded enough? Is it a good idea to carry a heavy transformer in addition to the device you need? Why not to use the brain instead of money? And what about the max. power limitation? BTW the buzzing noise drives me nuts.
Common mortal people think a main plug adapter like those ones:
will solve all the problems. Well let them believe they can recharge the phone with the WIFI RF energy.
I was always wondering if it is possible to hack a 110V device (sometime it's so cheap tp buy in $, if the shipping/custom cost are reasonable) into a 220V one and vice versa. After a little research I found almost nothing regarding this topic (only sporadic hack guide for some product).
I'm just an EE with a little bit of passion and I travel a lot in the past in different countries so I build up a little experience on this stuff.
Forgive me if this is not 100% correct or need modifications/better technical descriptions. I will try to keep the important information in this first page post.
As Dave says, it´s our forum.
I'm not responsible for any call to the local fire department or burned devices. Triple check everything. It could cost a lot of money or be lethal for you and/or the end user.
WARNING YOU WILL WORK WITH HIGH DANGEROUS MAIN VOLTAGES! USE CAUTION AND THINK TWICE BEFORE ACT!Worldwide situationGenreally (99%): 220VAC 50Hz or 110VAC 60Hz
for details
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_countrycheck also how many main plugs are out there!
Hacking the power lines to get the desired voltage outIt also looks like generally the frequency difference 50/60Hz will not be a big problem.
For 110VAC residential voltage (i.e. US/Canada):You can get directly the 240VAC for the main power line by tapping off the two opposite phases. Please read before regarding so e safety issues. A transformer is suggested because it is more safe. In addition to that please check if have a dryer or a kitchen oven close where you want the 240V, as I saw those devices runs at 240VAC, so you can just tap the two phases out there... Please consider also the circuit beaker Ampere size since you are now running more than a single device with it.
For 240VAC residential voltage (i.e. Europe):Here no mercy, you need a transformer. I was starting to investigate the possibility to use a TRIAC to get the wave to max 110VAC (in some 110VAC device it could be a winner), but for business case and complexity doesn't make too much sense.
Hacking the device to work with the current voltageIn this section we will investigate the possibility to get the device running with a different main power supply voltage
The golden label ruleFirst look at the label of your product, it should tell you right away if you need a hack or not.
If this is impossible to look at it don't risk, trust the main plug (and/or main fuse) to determine which is the main voltage and consider this device as not worldwide compatible.
Circuit classificationI would start by dividing the devices in three big groups. It's a very difficult task but it cleans up the air a little bit (I hope).
a) DC operating circuits (99% <100W range)
Usually powered by rechargeable batteries this kind of circuits are 99% already compatible with all the world.
Example of this are infinite: 99% of the battery charger units (for laptop, phones, etc) but also table LED table lamp.
Here it is common to have a separated power unit from the devices which take care about the main AC to DC conversion (yes the ones which never fit in the laptop case).
Interesting enough if the final device need manly just DC (i.e. oscilloscope or computer) it is a very good sign you don't need any hack at all.
The need to hack/mod a circuit here is a sporadic event, and it is manly an easy job: find/design and replace the correct AC/DC converter (inside or outside the product case).
b) DC Small/medium power circuits (99% 100W-1000W range)
Here it depends. Manly politic business case are the driver to get a device compatible worldwide or not. Power drill charger or UPS unit for computers are a good example of it.
Also devices which uses electricity to produce a lot of heat (hot air guns, ovens, etc.) are most of all not worldwide. I think it is related to the heater resistor which need a circuit close to the main voltage.
Here an hack can save money (especially for used stuff from ebay), but it would need reverse engineering and the possibility to get access and modify the power circuit.
c) Power device (99% >1000W)
Devices which use components powered in AC (electric motors, heater resistors) or big main voltage transformer are almost impossible to hack or the business case is red.
An hack would involve to replace costly components, just open the case and cry on it. If you are a Braveheart of hacking keep a fire extinguisher close to you, or expect the unexpected.
Basic "How to" guideIf there is a main switch (110VAC/220AV, usually on the back panel close to the AC main input) you are done, just adjust the main plug (mandatory!) and check if the main fuse needs to be replaced. The fuse could be in the AC main input connector, see below:
or inside your device.
In case of no main switch or a not world wide compatible product, at this point you should consider to attempt a main circuit modification to your device.
As mikeselectricstuff would say there is no guide to reverse engineering. I try to give some suggestions, forgive me my experience is not huge.
- Google it, 99% you are not the first to face this problem. Sometimes there is even a kit to convert the main power device, see example here thanks to
nowlan wooh.
Just notice someone selling a bosch 10.8v charger conversion kit on ebay.
link
I got scared off when i noticed all the caps were 110v rated on my US charger.
- Make sure the main capacitors are fully discharged, they can be dangerous and hold the charge for days. Thanks to
Legit-Design, please see details in this post:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/need-a-russian-speacker-to-translate-a-you-tube-hack-video/msg376102/#msg376102- Follow the main lines like Alice did with the white rabbit. Thanks to
vk6zgo check the fuse in the power lines (they could be on both lines) and the RF filter capacitor. See post here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/hack-to-convert-fromto-110v-tofrom-220v-main-voltage-basics-guide-examples/msg375549/#msg375549...and check if all the components (all, everything connected to main, protection components included) are capable of the target voltages. Normally a 220V device will not work (well) in a 110V network. Be ready to call the firefighters in case you are trying to power up a 110V device with a 220V.
- Try to understand where the voltage is converted to a different nature (AC/DC) or amplitude, in other words try to isolate the power circuit from the rest of the circuit. The modifications should be related only to the power circuit, so you can 99% ignore the rest.
- get or reverse engineer the schematics of the main power board
- Does a different main frequency (50/60 Hz) play a role? Don´t forget this topic.
- Does the product have radio communication? Check if you can use that frequency in the target country (i.e. I heard in China the 125KHz is used for military purpose). Don´t forget this topic.
- Try to disconnect the power circuit from the rest and keep this last one disconnected and safe. It is better to risk just on the main power circuit.
- If it is impossible to disconnect the power circuit from the rest try to keep safe crucial components (and the ones difficult to replace) by disconnection or desoldering costly chips, if you can without damaging anything). It will cost time but can save money and the entire project success.
- use a lot of brain and do not try before to post your problems in this forum.
- Hack it. Nice to have try to design the mod as a worldwide compatible, it could be handy for a lot of people out there.
- after the hack, measure and check the power supply voltages (if you are using an oscilloscope be careful you can't connect the probes directly to the main voltages or go on too high voltages)
- rebuild it together and pray.
- Success? post it in the forum.
Examples Computer PSUhere is interesting to see how a 110V/220V switch works, just for your inspiration
details here:
http://www.pavouk.org/hw/en_atxps.htmlMakita DC18RA ModFrom 110V to 220V:
http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/Makita/makita_mod1.htmMakita DC10WB ModFrom 110V to 220V:
Thanks to
Legit-Design, please see details in this post:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/need-a-russian-speacker-to-translate-a-you-tube-hack-video/msg376102/#msg376102it has russian subtitles AND he shows how to hack it. AND youtube can translate the russian subtitles to english.
Even if I didn't know russian and this didn't have any subtitles it would be relatively easy to do the hack.
Basically change resistor to match your input voltage, the charger already has this built in because they change few components for different markets. Change capacitors to match 400V which is typical for 230V operated switch mode power supplies, check to see if protection components can withstand the higher voltage. You could probably take old working computer power supply apart and get the necessary parts from there.
Z
PS: I live in US but I have 220V, 60Hz(!) lines under my bench to power up my european equipment, it was just a wire from the main electric power of my apartment. Yes I hate big transformer.