The better resistors might have copper leads and will be soft and buckle easily. Others will be steel. I find it helps to clip the ends at an angle so they have a point and insert better. Painting resistors is just silly. You should be doing enough work that you can sight read color codes. Practice, don't rely on a crutch. Yes, the high end resistors with printed values are nice too!
I'll try the cutting at an angle trick, but thicker leads are nice too. I'll add some of the vishay or spheer ones to my next order.
And I can sight read resistor codes just fine, been doing so almost as long as I've been able to read written words, that's why I painting them with the standard resistor color codes and not some made up one. What I can't do is pick out a specific value from two feet away from a pile of two dozen or so with my pheripheral vision. finding the nice bright solid E1 resistors is quite easy and more often than not an order of magnitude resistance is enough when initial breadboarding is happening or debugging by switching out component values. pull ups/down, transistor base current limiting, LED current limiting all are pretty flexible about what value is used and are the most common things I need to throw into a breadboard design.
Also, it is just an extension of the standard E series, E48 requires three stripes and a magnitude, E24 require two stripes and a magnitude, E3 would be one and a magnitude (1,2,5 is close enough to 1,2.2, and 4.7 to be within tolerance and a common log prefered number series) and E1 just needs the magnitude line so can be painted fully that color, zero ohm resistors with the single black line are examples of E1 standard resistors that are actually sold with this marking convention.