Electrolytic capacitor brands question

[ballsystemlord]

This comes up every so often and I have searched the forums and the net with little result.

I'm looking to increase my supply of electrolytic capacitors and I'm going for the >50v variety. Of course, I'm looking at "assortments," which means I'm at the mercy of the types of assortments that people put on the net.
I've encountered only 2 brands, JCCON and JWCO. According to a US seller, JWCO is a good brand, but I cannot find any info at all about the quality of these 2 on the net. I'd imagine that no information means that they are not blowing up, but I really wonder if they're up to spec.

Do any of you have experiences with either of these 2 brands?

Thanks!

[jonpaul]

chinese junk

We use USA or EU made brands, EPCOS, etc

j

[james_s]

Those assortments might be ok for a quick test but they're mostly of dubious quality. Personally I like Nichicon, Rubycon and Panasonic although there are others. It's easy to make your own assortments of common values, some savings can be had if you focus on values you typically use or that are common in equipment you work on.

[David Aurora]

*snip*

Of course, I'm looking at "assortments,"

*snip*

Why?

[Haenk]

For a quick breadboard hack, they might be OK. Check them before use, though.

However I would never ever even consider soldering them into something.

If you need a cap for a project or a repair, buy them from a reputable seller. Aliexpress is not one of those
Branded caps will often be faked, most likely even on ebay or Amazon.
Downside: Branded (high quality) caps are significantly more expensive than cheap chinese ones. But consider this: The "good caps" will likely last for many years or decades, the cheap ones might fail after a short while - is it worth your time to replace them again and again, just to save a handful of bucks?

[wraper]

JWCO is cheapest garbage which in my limited experience are not reliable. The only reasonable way to use them is in low stress circuits with no heat present. Never seen JCCON but they do not even have a website.

[wraper]

If you want something cheaper but still decent quality, buy Samxon, Samwha, SAMYOUNG, Lelon, Yageo, Jamicon (aquired by Yageo), Elite, L-tec, Hitano. Of course Rubycon, Panasonic, Nippon/United chemi-con, Nichicon, Elna are the best but very expensive too. But don't just look on the brand, there are many different series which differ in lifetime and acceptable stress a lot.

[strawberry]

why capacitor assortments exist : to get rid of junk for higher price
1: I expect life to be short 1000h max (will get dry faster)
2: on ebay and aliexpress chinese are really good at repackaging component (even for the cost of some cents)
3: cheap/shady components are good for breadboard and blowing up some components for fun

[Conrad Hoffman]

Good grief, caps are cheap enough, even the good ones. Make up your own assortment of values you'll actually use and buy 10 or more of each. Buy Panasonic, Rubycon, United Chemicon, Illinois, Elna or Nichicon. Buy from Digikey, Mouser, Allied, Newark, Avnet, Future or Arrow. Don't buy junk!

[ballsystemlord]

Why?

I was under the understanding that building your own assortment of components was more expensive than buying one pre-made due to the seller being able to do bulk purchases and then sell them in smaller quantities to us.
Also, although I could certainly just buy exactly the values I need at the time I need them, I'm then at the mercy of shipping time and shipping charges.

[ballsystemlord]

Just to be clear, I'm not saying "I will buy junk." that's why I'm asking, "Are these brands junk?"

[TimNJ]

There is theoretically a shelf life issue with electrolytic caps though I am not sure how serious of an issue that really is. If you have an LCR meter you can always check that the capacitance and ESR makes sense before you install it in a circuit.

Anyway, partly for that reason, I only keep a small stock of electrolytics. Plus, often electrolytics are used in applications where absolute capacitance is not critical, so there’s not much need to stock tons of values. If you do need something special, just order it.

10-1000uF / 25-50V in 1, 2.2, and 4.7 increments is probably enough. Panasonic FR or similar is a good all around cap to have around. Not expensive. I would not bother with the super cheap stuff.

[TimNJ]

Double posted somehow?

[Siwastaja]

I was under the understanding that building your own assortment of components was more expensive than buying one pre-made due to the seller being able to do bulk purchases and then sell them in smaller quantities to us.

True if you need all those parts, but the problem with assortments are, you are never going to use 95% of the parts.

Get assortments with gazillion of different resistor values for example, because during prototyping etc. you need all kind of resistor values and can't predict what exactly.

But electrolytic capacitors are not like this. When you need one, you know which one you need, and you probably want a good quality part. Shop when necessary. It will end up cheaper.

Besides, when you buy parts for your projects and always order a few extra part, you start developing your own stock, and what's best, the parts are usable for you; you needed them once, chances are there you will use the same parts again.

[mariush]

Those brands of capacitors would probably be fine for use with low frequency stuff, like on the input and output of a linear regulator,  or for some RC circuit, maybe some Arduino stuff, smoothing out some fan.. stuff like that...  but I wouldn't use them in high switching frequency circuits... they'd probably be ok for prototyping in a pinch, but not for something you'd actually use or sell.. wouldn't use them for example when making a step-down or step-up dc-dc converter, led drivers, or when repairing a LCD monitor or some other power supply.

On electrolytic capacitors, I prefer Nichicon, United Chemi-Con, Rubycon, Panasonic, Elna ...  Samxon and Teapo are not bad, not in the same league but above the "OK brands" in my opinion. Wurth electronic apparently makes good capacitors but I never used them.

Some other OK brands would be Aishi, Elite, Samwha, even Jamicon is used a lot in some devices...
There's some brands of polymer capacitors which are OK, like X-Con (if my memory is correct they're the Samxon solid/polymer capacitor division), Kemet makes a lot of solid/polymer capacitors as well and depending on how well stocked that part is they can be quite cheap if bought in volume (as in at least 25-50 pcs)

There's less popular brands like Kemet and Vishay and Epcos , they're just less popular in stuff I deal with (mass produced electronics like motherboards, monitors, switching power supplies).. maybe they're good in some applications or for some niches but I don't have experience with them

[HalFoster]

Personally, I always get Nichicon in a 105° rating - although any of the other major brands (Wurth, UCC, Vishay, CD etc) are pretty much just as good. Panasonic has a good reputation but to me they seem to exaggerate their specifications somewhat.  As was mentioned, don't try to get all values - in 99% of the cases, a 470uF can be used in the place of a 100uF - although generally substitute with a higher value.  There are, of course, exceptions to this but knowledge of those comes with experience - and asking questions of those that have already "been there, done that" such as on these forums.

Hal

[Conrad Hoffman]

Anything under 1 or 2 uF you'll probably use a film. I try to have 4.7, 22, 47, 100, 220 and 470 uF on hand. Even that's more than you likely need- ditch the 22 and 100 if you like. Circuits aren't that fussy. Larger values I order special. Age matters, but storage for a few years is no problem. I bought many caps surplus decades ago and do have to toss a bag or two every now and then. The ones that go bad are usually the 2nd tier brands. I have hundreds of axial 1000 uF 25V Daewoo caps (sold by National Capacitor Corp.) that have gone bad. Don't kid yourself that reforming will help. When they get a couple decades old, they're usually junk. A good reason to avoid NOS parts from eBay and such. More recent parts from Digikey have been no problem.

[EEVblog_Fan]

Just a stupid remark; Since mostly very old stock electrolytic caps die out even before you even use them,why Is It there is no label marked on them stating the date of manufacture??  I know this too can be faked.

[inse]

Store in a cool and dry place.
Best before…

[Haenk]

Just a stupid remark; Since mostly very old stock electrolytic caps die out even before you even use them,why Is It there is no label marked on them stating the date of manufacture??  I know this too can be faked.

Often there is - at least on larger caps. Sometimes it's a real datecode, sometimes a cryptic batch number/datecode.
For commercial use, there is a strict shelf life (the package has a date of manufacture, so that can be easily checked) - for private use, the caps are usually good for several years.

[BrokenYugo]

Some of those cheap assortments have been known to not even make their stated voltage ratings, like put 16V across one marked 16V and it'll blow in seconds.

[ballsystemlord]

I think a date of expiration would also be good.
But I have noticed that more parts expire than just electrolytic capacitors. For example, IIRC, laser range finding chips also have an "expiration" date.

[rdl]

I don't think I've ever seen a part with an expiration date, but packaging often does because of moisture absorption concerns.

[David Aurora]

Why?

I was under the understanding that building your own assortment of components was more expensive than buying one pre-made due to the seller being able to do bulk purchases and then sell them in smaller quantities to us.
Also, although I could certainly just buy exactly the values I need at the time I need them, I'm then at the mercy of shipping time and shipping charges.

False economy if you end up with shitty caps and values you never use though.

I think the best approach if you want to be prepared is just purchase high quality parts based off what you use most. For example, have I needed an 82uF/400V cap before? Yeah, once I think? Am I going to want more of them taking up parts bins? God no! On the other hand, if you need a 22uF/500V axial cap or an 0805 100nF/50V cap I've got buckets of them.

If you haven't got enough jobs under your belt yet to know what you use most just make an estimate off your last couple projects and the next one you're planning and round up a little (e.g. if you need 7 x 1uF/50V buy 10). If you do things this way it's also easier to pad orders for free shipping etc. Like if my Mouser/E14/Digikey/(R.I.P RS Components) cart is sitting 12 bucks below the free shipping threshold and shipping is $15 I'm damn sure making the 5 pack of 47nF caps I need a 10 pack, and throwing a pack of my most used fuses and a few TL072's in there until I cross the threshold.

[DavidKo]

For testing I simply use desoldered caps. If you have enough free space, store the old PCBs. If you do not have the space and you have time desolder the parts from PCB.

For new designs I order parts from mouser, tme, etc. Usually it takes 3-4 working days to get parts (even when mouser ships the parts from US).