Author Topic: Building log for "EEZ BB3 Enclosure & Bare Boards" (Read 20023 times)

prasimix · « **on:** August 25, 2020, 08:32:58 am »

Quoted from here:

Quote from: Ranayna on August 08, 2020, 09:24:43 pm

I will ask this here, several potentially interested people are already here

Would there be any interest if i start somewhat of a "Build Log" in the projects forum?
This would explicitly be written from the perspective of a relative "noob" :p

My intentions for such a build log would be multiple, in no particular order:
- share my work with others doing the same, giving and hopefully receiving pointers
- Let the community help get my ass in motion :p

This could even work as a sanity check for your documentation

EDIT: I should clarify: That would be for the "bare boards" kit, and would start with ordering (and maybe selecting and searching for) components, over soldering, assembly, calibration and finish, hopefully, with first uses.

More then 50 people backed "EEZ BB3 Enclosure & Bare Boards" kit so far! Therefore I'm opening a new topic where we can discuss assembly, problems, share building pictures and ideas but also possible improvements that could be added in new versions.

The starting point should be the Assembly instructions published here.

I am at your disposal and I will do my best to make the installation as painless as possible. Mouser should initiate pick up at any time now so kits can be expected in the coming days.

exe · « **Reply #1 on:** August 26, 2020, 12:40:08 pm »

I have a question about verifying that DCP405 works correctly. Some hints were already given here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/crowd-funded-projects/eez-bench-box-3-sequel-to-eez-h24005/msg3196838/#msg3196838 and here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/crowd-funded-projects/eez-bench-box-3-sequel-to-eez-h24005/msg3203298/#msg3203298

I wonder what is the minimum voltage that DCP405 accepts? Looks like for testing purposes it can be supplied from even less than 12V.

prasimix · « **Reply #2 on:** August 26, 2020, 12:51:57 pm »

Quote from: exe on August 26, 2020, 12:40:08 pm

I wonder what is the minimum voltage that DCP405 accepts? Looks like for testing purposes it can be supplied from even less than 12V.

Set by R13 / R16 it should be about +27 V (when EN input goes below +1.2 V).

prasimix · « **Reply #3 on:** August 26, 2020, 04:41:09 pm »

I guess this will help: I updated the content of the project pages on the web. I also put those documents in a newly created folder on GitHub where you can also find a PDF where all the documents are merged together.

Corona_Spark · « **Reply #4 on:** August 28, 2020, 07:10:22 am »

The marked parameters of FB1 FB2 FB3 in the schematic diagram of DCP405 are 60R@100MHz, and the parameter in the BOM is 1k@100MHz.
In addition, the rated current of the inductor RN 112-4-02-0M7 is only 4A, which does not seem to meet the design requirements.

prasimix · « **Reply #5 on:** August 28, 2020, 07:20:48 am »

Thanks, I'll change that is schematics since 1K were used.

prasimix · « **Reply #6 on:** August 29, 2020, 07:04:09 am »

Follow up on message #288 from another thread: I have 7 DCP405 modules left in the "junkyard". I can send them worldwide except at this time to Australia.

exe · « **Reply #7 on:** September 06, 2020, 06:48:44 pm »

I powered one of dcp405 modules from a power supply. It seems aux voltages (+-9V +-5V) are fine, but on IC1 (prereg) I have RUN pin low. Is this normal? If so, I assume pre-reg is disabled by default and enabled by MCU. Is there any way to enable it for testing purposes?

prasimix · « **Reply #8 on:** September 06, 2020, 09:23:06 pm »

Sure, apply +5 V to IC1 RUN input (pin

to enable it. When enabled, you should get about +4 V on pre-regulator output (PREG_OUT+).

exe · « **Reply #9 on:** September 07, 2020, 02:32:10 pm »

I applied +4V to RUN pin, and got +4.7V. Looks OK to me... I also removed the heatsink, looks like all ICs have correct orientation. IC9 has alignment issues, but looks to have a good electrical contact.

So, I guess, further troubleshooting requires installing it into the power supply? Or there is a simple way to output some test voltage? It seems I need to send some SPI commands to do so.

PS not sure if it matters, but both CV and CC LEDs are on.

prasimix · « **Reply #10 on:** September 07, 2020, 02:51:08 pm »

Yes, you need the rest of the system to continue with testing. Without control, both CV and CC will be turned on, that is fine.

exe · « **Reply #11 on:** September 16, 2020, 05:42:21 pm »

I tried to buy LRS-150F-48 from Mouser, but they don't ship it to individuals in EU. Is it possible to substitute it? If so, what would be suggestions?

I found HRP and HRPG series, which feature active PFC and slightly higher ripple, but have 38mm height instead of 30mm. Will they fit? (e.g., hrp-150-48).

Another question, can input be lower than 40V if I don't need full 40V output? I think I'll be happy with less than 30V of full-range output.

prasimix · « **Reply #12 on:** September 16, 2020, 06:18:14 pm »

Yes, the DC input could be lower, and max output voltage will drop respectively. I'm not sure if Mouser is a right address for buying Mean Well price wise, TME is much better, but with empty stock for F-version. The direct replacement is version with manual switch for AC input that shouldn't be a problem: you need to set it to 230 Vac and TME has over 100 pcs in stock.
The problem is that enclosure is custom tailored to accept LRS-150 modules. Thicker modules could be housed but ask for a new mounting frame and some extra tweaking.

The Soulman · « **Reply #13 on:** September 16, 2020, 06:52:36 pm »

reichelt.nl has LRS-150F-48 for 24 euro incl. btw (tax).

exe · « **Reply #14 on:** October 18, 2020, 01:06:41 pm »

I started buying parts for aux ps, mcu board, and backplate and noticed that when using 1-click bom some parts din't make it into the basket (or I don't know how to use BOM). It seems that not all parts are available on Mouser, so I had to use digikey and tme. I suggest checking the following parts:

1. AUX PS heatsink
2. leds
3. idc ribbon cable
4. buzzer
5. banana socket

The hardest part to find turned out to be encoder, I'm going to replace it either with no-dent version, or 12 dents version. The next challenge was to find MCU. I found it only on digikey.

I put my orders already, hope to start assembly next week.

prasimix · « **Reply #15 on:** October 18, 2020, 01:41:10 pm »

Yes, there is a shortage of MCU, but the last time I checked (about 2-3 weeks ago) Farnell had most of the world’s reserves in stock

AkosL · « **Reply #16 on:** October 18, 2020, 10:20:21 pm »

Guys, where did you find SRF0703-821M? Looks like it's nowhere even on Octopart.
Or is there a suitable replacement part?

For the MeanWell power supplies: look at local MeanWell distributor

prasimix · « **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2020, 10:23:48 pm »

Same family, anything down to 330 uH should works.

exe · « **Reply #18 on:** October 19, 2020, 07:49:52 am »

Oh boy, I'm bitten by the same problem again. Why mouser does this?

. Worst part: I put all my orders already, so if I want to order this part elsewhere, I'll have to pay for delivery. I'm figuring out if I can provide them VAT of a company of a friend of mine.

billrule · « **Reply #19 on:** October 20, 2020, 12:25:33 pm »

I know this is basic, but apart from trial and error, is there a guide to which end of the case is the
front?

AkosL · « **Reply #20 on:** October 20, 2020, 03:41:37 pm »

Quote from: exe on October 19, 2020, 07:49:52 am

Oh boy, I'm bitten by the same problem again. Why mouser does this? . Worst part: I put all my orders already, so if I want to order this part elsewhere, I'll have to pay for delivery. I'm figuring out if I can provide them VAT of a company of a friend of mine.

Did you manage to order it from Mouser? Local supplier is out of stock for that power supply, and got to the point when I have to give my credit card info at Mouser's checkout.

Ranayna · « **Reply #21 on:** October 20, 2020, 04:50:46 pm »

Quote from: billrule on October 20, 2020, 12:25:33 pm

I know this is basic, but apart from trial and error, is there a guide to which end of the case is the
front?

Look at the holes. There are a lot more holes on the front side than on the back side, because both the MCU and the BP3C Board are mounted on the front side.
This is well visible in the assembly instructions of the 2Channel Kit:
https://www.envox.hr/eez/images/bb3_instr_bottom_plate.jpg

exe · « **Reply #22 on:** October 20, 2020, 08:55:36 pm »

Quote from: AkosL on October 20, 2020, 03:41:37 pm

Did you manage to order it from Mouser? Local supplier is out of stock for that power supply, and got to the point when I have to give my credit card info at Mouser's checkout.

No, they said it's only for companies. Had to order from digikey. So, I put two orders on digikey, they say I'll have to pay vat on delivery. Hope there won't be any hidden costs like processing (I'm in NL).

AkosL · « **Reply #23 on:** October 21, 2020, 10:05:18 am »

@prasimix, I hope my last questions for now: do you have any alternative source for these?
PMB-1 PCB bracket; polyamide - hot glue?

OSY5LU3E34X-3F1A THT; LED 3mm; yellow - just solder in a 3mm led, and bend the legs? or does this have built-in current limiting maybe?

Thanks a lot!

prasimix · « **Reply #24 on:** October 21, 2020, 11:37:43 am »

Quote from: AkosL on October 21, 2020, 10:05:18 am

@prasimix, I hope my last questions for now: do you have any alternative source for these?
PMB-1 PCB bracket; polyamide - hot glue?

The same, from TME: PCB-MB-01

Quote from: AkosL on October 21, 2020, 10:05:18 am

OSY5LU3E34X-3F1A THT; LED 3mm; yellow - just solder in a 3mm led, and bend the legs? or does this have built-in current limiting maybe?

Huh, that one is a real trouble to source, but as you suggested any 3 mm LED with bended legs should be fine.


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Author Topic: Building log for "EEZ BB3 Enclosure & Bare Boards" (Read 20023 times)

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