AR488 Arduino-based GPIB adapter

[one2one]

Hello People, i have built the AR488 for my HP5316A  (Universal Counter) Frequency Counter and it works nice.

I used the AR488v3 board with a Arduino Pro Micro,  I cutdown a Centronics Printer Cable Plug  (36way) with a hacksaw to be  24way and soldered  it onto the back of the AR488v3 board,
then Programmed the Arduino Pro Micro with the Arduino IDE.     

Some commands I found useful  were
 ++addr 20      ;  the default address for the      HP5316A
 ++auto 3    ( or 1)     ;  multi read  (or single read)
 ++read 

Typical reply is   something like
F     1.0000E+05

Thanks a lot for this great project.   (the "Minister of Finance" would not have ever approved funds for a commercially built GPIB to USB converter)

Only thing to note is that the USB micro connector on the Arduino Pro Micro is a little fragile, and i accidentally snapped  the USB off the board with almost no force applied. 
(lucky i had some spare Pro Micros)

Probably  also work on the  HP5315A, HP5315B,  HP5316A and HP5316B etc  that have the GPIB option.

[artag]

I have had a couple of people ask me for Kicad sources for my pcb so they can make modifications. They can be found at https://github.com/artgodwin/AR488-32u4-PCB

If you make a derivative that you think solves a problem of interest to other people, please feel free to mention it here and distribute it however you like. I make nothing from the design, so if you take all the users I can't lose anything !
 

[DavidKo]

Many thanks to artag. I was little bit confused with the archive name 32u4, but I can confirm that this design is for Arduino Nano (tested with MEGA328P)

I have "created" PCB with 5 pcs to produce more PCBs, when send to JLCPCB. After struggling with connector placement I have added the connector shape (that is untested in my batch).
https://github.com/konarik/AR488-multiple-PCBs

I have tried to use it with 32u4 nano PCB (2 pins which are not on standard nano are not connected), but it was beyond my programming skills - I have tried to modify the code, but nothing had worked.

If someone is interested I still have 3 1 PC (with 5PCBs) which I can sent, but check at first the shipping price from Czech. It can be cheaper to produce it directly in JLCPCB - I was surprised, no customs were necessary, VAT was payed during the order and it had came through someone in Germany.

[bingo600]

Many thanks to artag. I was little bit confused with the archive name 32u4, but I can confirm that this design is for Arduino Nano (tested with MEGA328P)

Could you point to the "GPIB connector you used" ?

/Bingo

[artag]

Apologies, I will put up the 32u4 (arduiino pro micro) version but that is indeed an earlier Nano layout.

[DavidKo]

Could you point to the "GPIB connector you used" ?

/Bingo

I have used Centronix 24 pin connector. I was not able to find the correct one at my favourite souces, so I bought a pack on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/392426119370.

[justjason]

Apologies, I will put up the 32u4 (arduiino pro micro) version but that is indeed an earlier Nano layout.

Is this the right version for the 32u4 ?

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/yfUOmUzA

[artag]

Is this the right version for the 32u4 ?

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/yfUOmUzA

Yes, but it only contains the gerbers. The github repo (should) contain the kicad sources.

[ONLYA]

I build AR488 with Mega 2560 and the GPIB transceiver chips (SN75160BN and SN75161BN). They are in the format of Arduino Shield. The design, manufacturing and source code files are in https://github.com/ONLYA/AR488-Bluetooth-Mega-2560 if anyone wants to modify and manufacture it.

I built it yesterday but it did not work. The handshake signals do not even change. After tests, I believed that the transceiver ICs that I purchased on eBay cannot transceive the data. Probably I need to buy new ones on Mouser or Digikey.
Now I am considering shorting the pins to make the direct connections.

Is there anything wrong with my design and my source code that makes this not work?

[WaveyDipole]

It looks like you have spent quite a bit of time designing that hat for the Mega 2560! I had a look at your the schematic and layout. I am assuming that we are looking at the top of the board and the IEEE488 socket is facing up. If so, then I couldn't spot any obvious problem. This also assumes that the orientation of the socket is correct (narrow side towards the outer edge of the board).

Its been a little while since I worked out the SN7516x chip details so I would have to set this up on a breadboard again. As a matter of curiosity, did you prototype this on a breadboard first?

Did you use sockets for the SN75161x chips? If so, then it should be straightforward enough to jumper them temporarily, trying one IC at a time. I also presume you have jumpered either JP1 or JP2? You should have only one or the other connected. Since you are using pin 5 for DC in the config, then connect only this pin. Otherwise if you want to use REN, then comment out the DC pin in the config.

[Martin Miranda]

subscribing. i'm looking forward to make one. 

[ONLYA]

It looks like you have spent quite a bit of time designing that hat for the Mega 2560! I had a look at your the schematic and layout. I am assuming that we are looking at the top of the board and the IEEE488 socket is facing up. If so, then I couldn't spot any obvious problem. This also assumes that the orientation of the socket is correct (narrow side towards the outer edge of the board).

Its been a little while since I worked out the SN7516x chip details so I would have to set this up on a breadboard again. As a matter of curiosity, did you prototype this on a breadboard first?

Did you use sockets for the SN75161x chips? If so, then it should be straightforward enough to jumper them temporarily, trying one IC at a time. I also presume you have jumpered either JP1 or JP2? You should have only one or the other connected. Since you are using pin 5 for DC in the config, then connect only this pin. Otherwise if you want to use REN, then comment out the DC pin in the config.

Thanks for the comment. All your assumptions are what I have done.

I did not prototype this on a breadboard as I presumed it would work at the first time. As I did not have an IC socket when I built it, I directly soldered it on the board
Jumpers are to select different configurations to see the difference and I only soldered DC-5 and one side of both UART jumpers.

I got components from Farnell today and will make a new one tonight.

[ONLYA]

I got components from Farnell today and will make a new one tonight.

It is the update of my board design. I built a new board.
The board did not work either with or without the GPIB transceivers. Probably the GPIB interface of my instrument (Agilent 34001a) is not working properly. Maybe I can only use RS-232 or use the others' breakout design.
I only have this equipment with a GPIB interface. I Hope WaveyDipole can get it to work with his instrument.

[m3vuv]

So without reading thru the whole 30+ pages of the thread,did this ever get finished?

[Jester]

Hi, I’m a latecomer to this thread. I have not read the 30 odd pages. Hopefully someone familiar with this thread can answer a few questions:

I’m exploring options for a standalone data logger for up to 6 DMM’s (3x34401A with GPIB) and a 2-3 Flukes also with GPIB, all of these meters also have serial ports. I have an Agilent 82357B GPIB Adapter and it works great with option 2) below on my win7-64 PC even when running multiple instances of the standalone software to log multiple meters.

I’m familiar with the two data loggers introduced on this forum
1) Program that can log from many multimeters
2) HP 34401A … Standalone software  (BTW I really like this one, check it out if you have not discovered it yet)

I would like to setup a standalone data logger independent of my win7-64 pc that I use daily. I have a Win10 tablet that I thought would be ideal for the independent data logger using program 2) above however it has Win10-32 bit OS and this appears to be a problem for program 2), not verified I’m still checking. Program 1) above does not support the 82357B adapter, so that’s why I’m here exploring this option.

So finally the questions:
A) what arduino board should I use?
B) Has someone developed a readily available board that has whatever GPIB interface stuff on it?
C) Is such a board available either finished as a kit or in Altium or similar format so I can order one?
D) Has anyone reliably logged data from multiple meters using the Arduino solution and what logging software did you use?

Much appreciated,
J

[pqass]

...
I would like to setup a standalone data logger independent of my win7-64 pc that I use daily. I have a Win10 tablet that I thought would be ideal for the independent data logger using program 2) above however it has Win10-32 bit OS and this appears to be a problem for program 2), not verified I’m still checking. Program 1) above does not support the 82357B adapter, so that’s why I’m here exploring this option.

So finally the questions:
A) what arduino board should I use?
B) Has someone developed a readily available board that has whatever GPIB interface stuff on it?
C) Is such a board available either finished as a kit or in Altium or similar format so I can order one?
D) Has anyone reliably logged data from multiple meters using the Arduino solution and what logging software did you use?

Much appreciated,
J

Assuming that you already have all of your devices interconnected via GPIB cable,
you could use an Arduino UNO + shield with SN75160,SN75161 + HC05/06 bluetooth module + IEEE488 connector.

A perfboard shield can be easily made to mount the SN75160, SN75161 ICs, and bluetooth module.

See AR488-manual.pdf (Appendix A, pg 42) and AR488-Bluetooth.pdf here: https://github.com/Twilight-Logic/AR488 
See page 13 of the manual pdf WRT use of pin 13 for SN75161_DC or AR_BT_EN.

FYI: I don't have personal experience with the bluetooth setup but can confirm that the SN7516x driver configuration works.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ar488-arduino-based-gpib-adapter/msg3813158/#msg3813158

[ONLYA]

FYI: I don't have personal experience with the Bluetooth setup but can confirm that the SN7516x driver configuration works.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ar488-arduino-based-gpib-adapter/msg3813158/#msg3813158

I can confirm that Bluetooth works fine. See the attachments. It is directly powered from a 5V power supply instead of a PC.

Just need to verify which port is for AR488 itself. And unplug the Bluetooth module before you program Arduino.

[WaveyDipole]

I got components from Farnell today and will make a new one tonight.

It is the update of my board design. I built a new board.
The board did not work either with or without the GPIB transceivers. Probably the GPIB interface of my instrument (Agilent 34001a) is not working properly. Maybe I can only use RS-232 or use the others' breakout design.
I only have this equipment with a GPIB interface. I Hope WaveyDipole can get it to work with his instrument.

Sorry to hear this. I so happens that I have a HP34401A here and I know that is works directly with the AR488, however I also set it up with the SN75161x configuration to test.

I can confirm that Bluetooth works fine. See the attachments. It is directly powered from a 5V power supply instead of a PC.

Just need to verify which port is for AR488 itself. And unplug the Bluetooth module before you program Arduino.

Nice to know that Blutooth worked. Port Rx0/Tx0 is connected to the UART serial over for USB. However on the Mega2560 there is an alternate choice of ports. In the configuration you are using ([D]efault for Mega 2560) I seem to recall using Rx2/Tx2 pins for GPIB signals, but Rx1/Tx1 and Rx3/Tx3 could be used for Blutooth. That way there would be no interferance with the UART and programming. You could not see any output from the AR488 via the UART though, only Bluetooth.

[RichardM]

I build AR488 with Mega 2560 and the GPIB transceiver chips (SN75160BN and SN75161BN). They are in the format of Arduino Shield. The design, manufacturing and source code files are in https://github.com/ONLYA/AR488-Bluetooth-Mega-2560 if anyone wants to modify and manufacture it.

I built it yesterday but it did not work. The handshake signals do not even change. After tests, I believed that the transceiver ICs that I purchased on eBay cannot transceive the data. Probably I need to buy new ones on Mouser or Digikey.
Now I am considering shorting the pins to make the direct connections.

Is there anything wrong with my design and my source code that makes this not work?

Hi, does this Mega-2560 hat now work ?

Richard

[Davesdewas]

Thank you very much for your excellent work!
hellodear.in
tea tv

[ONLYA]

Sorry to hear this. I so happens that I have a HP34401A here and I know that is works directly with the AR488, however I also set it up with the SN75161x configuration to test.

It could be so many factors here: faulty cable, faulty GPIB ports, etc. The assertion tests of the data and control signals work fine before the SN7516X transceivers. I will check those factors one by one today later on.

Nice to know that Blutooth worked. Port Rx0/Tx0 is connected to the UART serial over for USB. However on the Mega2560 there is an alternate choice of ports. In the configuration you are using ([D]efault for Mega 2560) I seem to recall using Rx2/Tx2 pins for GPIB signals, but Rx1/Tx1 and Rx3/Tx3 could be used for Blutooth. That way there would be no interferance with the UART and programming. You could not see any output from the AR488 via the UART though, only Bluetooth.

The UART port are shared in the source code and seems not configurable with the config file. I can change this part to make the UART ports configured and work separately. You can solder the "3" sides of JP3 and JP4 to connect the Bluetooth UART port to Rx/Tx3.

[ONLYA]

Hi, does this Mega-2560 hat now work ?

Richard

Not yet at least on my side. I am still checking it out. The replies https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ar488-arduino-based-gpib-adapter/msg3952730/#msg3952730 and https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/ar488-arduino-based-gpib-adapter/msg3954029/#msg3954029 reflect my current status.
I updated my PCB to play around the track length tuning with KiCad 6 though.

[chickenHeadKnob]

Well I am another happy user here, filled with gratitude. To ARtag and Wavey-dipole:
I kiss you!

if you know that meme you are probably as ancient as me.
I am new to using Arduino's and to my dismay found out that pro micros have that detestable surface mount USB connector that peels away easily as someone further back in this thread discovered.  So I examined the board bottom to see if I could strengthen the connector.

Rugged-datin' da connector

you will need: 22 awg solid copper wire, stripped clean.
                       some green scotch brite or sandpaper.
                        pointy blade Xacto knife
                       1 mm pcb drill bit and dremel or press
                       solder and iron.

step 1. scrape off the solder mask on the bottom of the board immediately underneath the usb connector with knife and scotch brite
            this should expose a strip of ground plane at the edge of  the board. Check continuity with the ground pin of the board and connector shell.
            I received boards from two sources one China the other a Canadian seller with the same layout. Don't know if other copper patterns exist
step 2  On the top side use the point of the xacto knife like a D bit and twirl some starter divots just outboard the edge of the solder pads.
step 3  Drill through the board
step 4  clean some bare copper 22 awg wire with the scotch brite. bend it into a square bottom U and fit through the holes you drilled.
step 5   solder the wire to bottom of board
step 6  flip board over and solder the wire ends to the connector as expedient hold down stakes.

something like this (not my best unit, but still serviceable)

[WaveyDipole]

I have just suffered the same problem with a Cypress FX2 board and the USB connector is hanging on only by the USB signal tracks at the rear. I will be giving your idea a try in the hope that it might still be salvageable!

[ONLYA]

Thanks to WaveyDipole, the problem of the Mega hat is finally found. It is the wrong connection due to my misunderstanding of the GPIB connector orientation and the wrong library directly downloaded from the internet. What a serious mistake I have made!
I will correct and verify the design and update the status here as soon as possible.
The next thing I probably need to do is to desolder the expensive GPIB connectors...